Effects of pomegranate flower complex on the skin / Julian Smits in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 5, N° 1 (02/2012)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 5, N° 1 (02/2012) . - p. 25-30 Titre : Effects of pomegranate flower complex on the skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julian Smits, Auteur ; Norbert Herbst, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 25-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Antioxydants Collagène -- Synthèse Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Fruits -- Emploi en cosmétologie Grenadier et constituants Phosphate ascorbylique de sodium Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The balance between collagen breakdown and collagen synthesis plays a crucial role in the extrinsic and intrinsic process of skin ageing. Environmental factors acting on the skin and genetically-determined processes cause an increase in collagen breakdown and at the same time a reduction in the synthesis of new collagen, which results in the increased appearance of wrinkles. One of the enzymes responsible for the breakdown of collagen is matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1). It has been demonstrated that an extract of pomegranate flowers reduces MMP-1 mRNA gene expression in UVA irradiated and non-irradiated primary human dermal fibroblasts. Due to this characteristic, the pomegranate flower extract (PGFE) was combined with sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) into a single product (PGFE/SAP). SAP, a derivative of vitamin C, is a wellknown antioxidant and collagen booster. The combined product made of PGFE and SAP (PGFE/SAP) was successfully tested for its safety in use both in vitro and in vivo. Results showed that PGFE/SAP promoted collagen synthesis, reduced the breakdown of collagen and measurability and visibly reduced the depth of facial wrinkles caused by skin ageing. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : MMP-1 gene expression analysis - MMP-1 synthesis (ELISA) - UV cytotoxicity assay - Product manufacture - Application formula - Tests concerning product safety - In vivo studies - Ultrasonography - Profilometry (PRIMOS) - Visual evaluation (VisioFace Quick) - RESULTS : Product safety (cytotoxicity, phototoxicity, mutagenicity, eye iritation (HET CAM), skin iritation (SPT/RPT), allergy research) - In vitro (MMP-1 gene expression analysis (RT-PCR), UV cytotoxicity, MMP-1 synthesis (ELISA), in vivo (skin density measurement using ultrasonography, profilometry (PRIMOS), visual evaluation (VisioFace Quick) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iKAqJcPNV0DsFXchyKz6meJaQwV1kbnP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=13392 [article]

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Plant-derived system boosts hydration and lipid barrier / Julian Smits in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 4 (06/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 4 (06/2015) . - p. 46-50 Titre : Plant-derived system boosts hydration and lipid barrier Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julian Smits, Auteur ; Michaela Weibel, Auteur ; Norbert Herbst, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 46-50 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cornéométrie Cosmétiques Etude in vivo Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perte insensible en eau Produits hydratants Spectroscopie Raman Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the field of corneobiology, the skin barrier has been pointed out to play a crucial role in skin homeostasis. In the treatment of dry skin, it is important to repair and augment the skin barrier in order to achieve positive and long-lasting results. To adequately describe the hydration state of the human skin, a number of complementary measuring techniques are often employed. Therefore, besides the classic methods of corneometry and the determination of the transepidermal water loss, we tested our moisturising active Hydro-Gain and the two industry standards, glycerol and hyaluronic acid, in a PCR-array and in a study using confocal Raman spectroscopy. In the comparison to glycerol and hyaluronic acid, Hydro-Gain gave the best results regarding skin moisturisation and we also found evidence that Hydro-Gain stimulates strengthening of the skin barrier. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Formulation - Safety assessment - Effect on selected key genes involved in epidermal biology - Application formulations - Test design in vivo studies - Skin moisture and transepidermal water loss - Confocal Raman spectroscopy - TABLES : 1. Cream formulation containing 5% hydro-gain - 2. Effects of 1% hydro-gain on genes involved in key processes of epidermal barrier homeostasis En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yTN0L4bmaIBF-Ut8cMQBf8xURxjTtTYO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24299 [article]

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