Effects of pomegranate flower complex on the skin / Julian Smits in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 5, N° 1 (02/2012)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 5, N° 1 (02/2012) . - p. 25-30 Titre : Effects of pomegranate flower complex on the skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julian Smits, Auteur ; Norbert Herbst, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 25-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Antioxydants Collagène -- Synthèse Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Fruits -- Emploi en cosmétologie Grenadier et constituants Phosphate ascorbylique de sodium Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The balance between collagen breakdown and collagen synthesis plays a crucial role in the extrinsic and intrinsic process of skin ageing. Environmental factors acting on the skin and genetically-determined processes cause an increase in collagen breakdown and at the same time a reduction in the synthesis of new collagen, which results in the increased appearance of wrinkles. One of the enzymes responsible for the breakdown of collagen is matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1). It has been demonstrated that an extract of pomegranate flowers reduces MMP-1 mRNA gene expression in UVA irradiated and non-irradiated primary human dermal fibroblasts. Due to this characteristic, the pomegranate flower extract (PGFE) was combined with sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) into a single product (PGFE/SAP). SAP, a derivative of vitamin C, is a wellknown antioxidant and collagen booster. The combined product made of PGFE and SAP (PGFE/SAP) was successfully tested for its safety in use both in vitro and in vivo. Results showed that PGFE/SAP promoted collagen synthesis, reduced the breakdown of collagen and measurability and visibly reduced the depth of facial wrinkles caused by skin ageing. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : MMP-1 gene expression analysis - MMP-1 synthesis (ELISA) - UV cytotoxicity assay - Product manufacture - Application formula - Tests concerning product safety - In vivo studies - Ultrasonography - Profilometry (PRIMOS) - Visual evaluation (VisioFace Quick) - RESULTS : Product safety (cytotoxicity, phototoxicity, mutagenicity, eye iritation (HET CAM), skin iritation (SPT/RPT), allergy research) - In vitro (MMP-1 gene expression analysis (RT-PCR), UV cytotoxicity, MMP-1 synthesis (ELISA), in vivo (skin density measurement using ultrasonography, profilometry (PRIMOS), visual evaluation (VisioFace Quick) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iKAqJcPNV0DsFXchyKz6meJaQwV1kbnP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=13392 [article]

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Plant-derived system boosts hydration and lipid barrier / Julian Smits in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 4 (06/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 4 (06/2015) . - p. 46-50 Titre : Plant-derived system boosts hydration and lipid barrier Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julian Smits, Auteur ; Michaela Weibel, Auteur ; Norbert Herbst, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 46-50 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cornéométrie Cosmétiques Etude in vivo Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perte insensible en eau Produits hydratants Spectroscopie Raman Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the field of corneobiology, the skin barrier has been pointed out to play a crucial role in skin homeostasis. In the treatment of dry skin, it is important to repair and augment the skin barrier in order to achieve positive and long-lasting results. To adequately describe the hydration state of the human skin, a number of complementary measuring techniques are often employed. Therefore, besides the classic methods of corneometry and the determination of the transepidermal water loss, we tested our moisturising active Hydro-Gain and the two industry standards, glycerol and hyaluronic acid, in a PCR-array and in a study using confocal Raman spectroscopy. In the comparison to glycerol and hyaluronic acid, Hydro-Gain gave the best results regarding skin moisturisation and we also found evidence that Hydro-Gain stimulates strengthening of the skin barrier. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Formulation - Safety assessment - Effect on selected key genes involved in epidermal biology - Application formulations - Test design in vivo studies - Skin moisture and transepidermal water loss - Confocal Raman spectroscopy - TABLES : 1. Cream formulation containing 5% hydro-gain - 2. Effects of 1% hydro-gain on genes involved in key processes of epidermal barrier homeostasis En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yTN0L4bmaIBF-Ut8cMQBf8xURxjTtTYO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24299 [article]

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The need for night-time sun care products / Stefan Bänziger in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017) . - p. 25-29 Titre : The need for night-time sun care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Bänziger, Auteur ; Julian Smits, Auteur ; Beatrix Senti, Auteur ; Ulrike Bätz, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 25-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Chimie analytique Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits après solaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : New discoveries indicate that the skin stress mediated by sunlight continues for hours after the skin has been exposed to UV irradiation; it continues even at night-time. Sunlight induces the generation of oxygen and nitrogen radicals that bring the skin's own melanin to an excited state. Subsequently, the melanin transfers this excess energy to the DNA, which ultimately causes delayed skin damage, so-called 'dark CPDs'. HerbaProtect NOX combines plant extracts from pomegranate flower, perilla leaf and kakadu plum, in a preservative-free, standardised and concentrated glycerol-based solvent system. The COSMOS-approved anti-ageing active acts on reactive oxygen and nitrogen species as well as on peroxynitrite, making it a perfect addition for sun care, after-sun or anti-ageing formulations that aim at protecting the skin against delayed sun-induced skin stress mediated by UV radiation, visible light or even infrared radiation. Note de contenu : - The generation of peroxynitrite causes damage long after UV exposure - Counteracting delayed sun-induced skin damage - Phytochemical analysis - Reduction of peroxynitrite-mediated cell stress - Reduction of dark CPD formation - Immediate and long-term protection against sun-induced oxidative stress En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X1plgNnUCHhqQeQJ_YmlwxooeHmw_7hq/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29372 [article]

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