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Natural ingredients for providing opacity and pearlescence in shower gels and shampoos / Laure Pagis in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018) . - p. 2-4 Titre : Natural ingredients for providing opacity and pearlescence in shower gels and shampoos Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Laure Pagis, Auteur ; H. Leroy, Auteur ; F. Jouffret, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 2-4 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Kaolin Opacité (optique) Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits chimiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Produits naturels shampooings Talc Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Opacifiers and pearlising agents are widely used to improve the appearance of shower gels and shampoos. Most current opacifying and pearlising solutions are based on synthetic ingredients, such as : styrene/acrylate copolymers for opacifiers, glycol stearate derivatives with fatty amides or mica-coated with a high refractive index metal oxide coating for pearlising agents. These synthetic ingredients are in the line of fire due to current trends towards zero-plastic and zero-nano particle products. Beides, they can also be difficult to use due to pH restrictions, need for high-temperature processes, and compatibility issues with other ingredients, particularly with cationics. This study demonstrates that a specific natural kaolin-based solution can be used to replace synthetic opacifiers and a specific natural talc-based solution can replace conventional pearlising agents. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Formulations - Instrumental test : colour measurements - Instrumental test : opacity measurements - Panel test : pearlescence intensity measurements - RESULTS : A new kaolinite mineral to replace synthetic opacifiers - An innovative talc mineral to replace pearlizing agents - DISCUSSION : The innovative kaolin imparts opacity and whiteness thanks to its unique porous morphology - The talc-based talc pearlising agents imparts pearlescence thanks to controlled lamellarty - Table 1 : Composition of shower gel formulation usef for characterization tests - Table 2 : Opacity and whiteness of 0.75 % innovative kaolin opacifier compared to opacity of 0.75 % conventional kaolin - Fig. 1 : Opacity of an innovative kaolin-based opacifier compared to an oil-derived opacifier in a shower gel formulation - Fig. 2 : Optical effect of 0.75% innovative kaolin-based opacifier in a clear gel formulation - Fig. 3 : Pearlising effect of two formulations measured by a volunteer panel test - Fig. 4 : The new kaolin-based solution has a different morphology from conventional kaolin - Fig. 5 : Compared to conventional talc the new talc-based solution has controlled multi-sheet thickness En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qve78Cv3_d1gxB7aWC3wp5To6hdvsSAH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30734 [article]

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Naturally soothing after shave balsam / Natalie Russ in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018) . - p. 6-10 Titre : Naturally soothing after shave balsam Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Natalie Russ, Auteur ; Martin Peter Neubauer, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 6-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Hydratation Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau masculine Produits après-rasage Produits de beauté masculins Produits hydratants Soins de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Shaving means stress to the skin and a good aftershave will cairn and soothe the skin by reducing skin irritation and restoring moisture. Creating such a product that also responds to major trends in the personal care market such as being alcohol-free and composed of ingredients from natural origin is a real challenge. Here, we present an aftershave balsam with a natural formula containing potassium lactate and with proven anti-irritant and moisturising properties. Both chromameter and Corneometer® data from skin treated with the balsam showed significant improvements in skin redness and hydration level, but also the sensory perception of the product was convincing. Therefore, potassium lactate can be considered as a genuine natural alternative to conventional functional ingredients in aftershaves. Note de contenu : - Methods - After shave balsam for men - Results : Shaving irritation study - Moisturising study - Table 1 : After shave balsam for men with potassium lactate - Table 2 : Subjective dermatological evaluation of the shaving irritation test bye the panelists - Fig. 1 : Differences in skin redness compared to an untreated control area at day 4 (mean values of 28 panelists), low a values correspond to low redness values ; p ≤ 0.05 - Fig. 2 : Differences to control area for skin moisture content (SMC) measured by corneometer (mean values of 20 panelists) after application of test and reference formulations. SMC of 100% indicates the starting position En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D2Tgm7W5N5a-MxYbTrLIZNZ0SPR5iL1B/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30735 [article]

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Position paper on the definition of organic and natural cosmetics / Manuel Neumeier in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018) . - p. 12-14 Titre : Position paper on the definition of organic and natural cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Manuel Neumeier, Auteur ; Reinhod A. Brunke, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 12-14 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques Matières premières Produits naturels -- Terminologie Vocabulaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As long as people have existed, there has been vanity and concern about wellbeing, and so it is easy to explain how humans have always been in search of remedies that improve the appearance and keep the skin in good condition. Given that, in the early human era, nature was the only available source of raw materials, preparations and remedies, people turned to nature for skin care. Thus, over many millennia, experience was gained in dealing with natural substances and using them to beautify and care for the skin. The resulting remedies were not just part of everyday life — reports from ancient cultures also mention the special importance of cosmetic products reserved exclusively for the ruling classes or for funerary offerings. Thus, millennia of experience gave rise to cosmetic science in the successful use of natural substances as skin-care products. The popularity, and thus the need, for cosmetic products increased steadily with the growth of the population, and as early as the 19th Century, cosmetic products were used in such large quantities that industrial production became necessary. The great need and desire for consistent product properties regardless of the time and place of purchase prompted demands for stability, reproducibility and year-round availability of raw materials, which could no longer be satisfied from natural sources. The emerging chemical industry and its petrochemical and synthetic raw materials were the opportune solutions to the problem. Thus, the era of pure natural cosmetics came to an end. The 1872 patent on the cosmetic use of Vaseline may well have marked the parting of the ways between today's conventional cosmetics and pure natural cosmetics. However, the anthroposophical lifestyle and the movements of the 1960s prompted a perceptible renaissance in natural cosmetics. The responsible German ministry developed a definition of natural cosmetics in 1993, which was then expanded in 2010 to make natural cosmetic products distinguishable from conventional cosmetics in terms of consumer protection and consumer education. The Austrian authorities likewise developed a definition, Codex 33, which is used by some companies in that country, but not elsewhere. In recognition of the serious endeavours by the natural cosmetics companies to distinguish genuine natural cosmetics from conventional products in green packaging (so-called "greenwashing"), in 1997, the leading German natural cosmetics companies joined the initiative of a natural product chemist to define "controlled natural cosmetics" and worked together to achieve the common goal of establishing the world's first industry standard for organic and natural cosmetics. Products manufactured to this standard were recognised with the symbols for the raw material sources of natural cosmetics (ocean waves and plant leaves) and the sun as energy source. The idea of this standard has been widely acclaimed, but failure to implement it as the exclusive international standard prompted many other organisations to develop a variety of organic and natural cosmetics standards and marks that were broadly similar, but differed in their details. The resulting confusion was no longer sufficiently transparent for consumers, retailers, consumer advocates and appraisers. To create realistic consumer expectations for informed purchasing decisions, public-service controls in the interests of consumer protection and a generally acceptable view of organic and natural cosmetics, the experts of the Cosmetics Working Group in the GDCh have developed the following definition. This definition is written so comprehensively and broadly that it covers all existing industry standards in the basic principles and is not at odds with any industry standards. The result is a definition that justifies a classification of cosmetic products as organic and natural cosmetics if they comply with the following rules. Note de contenu : - A. RAW MATERIAL DEFINITIONS : 1. Natural substances - 2. Natural substance derivatives - 3. Synthetic substances with defined use permits - B. CRITERIA : 1a. Plant-based raw materials - 1b. Animal raw materials - 1c. Biotechnologically produced cosmetics and cosmetic raw materials - 1d. Mineral and inorganic substances - 2. Natural substance derivatives - 3a. Synthetic substances with defined use permits - 3b. Fragrances and flavourings - Water - C. EXCLUSION CRITERIA En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oMHmENwuTT2VlANpXUHBrD9y16-W70RO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30736 [article]

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Orientation paper - organic and natural cosmetics / Sven Gehrig in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018) . - p. 18-19 Titre : Orientation paper - organic and natural cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sven Gehrig, Auteur ; B. Huber, Auteur ; Bernhard Fellenberg, Auteur ; D. Stumpf, Auteur ; Brigitta Hirschmann, Auteur ; T. Münstedt, Auteur ; H. Raddatz, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 18-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques Terminologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Organic and natural cosmetics are more popular than ever before. ln 2015 alone, the natural cosmetics market grew by 10% ; this represents a disproportionately high growth compared to the overall cosmetics market (1.5%). However, the term "natural cosmetics" is not legally defined and there is an overlapping with adjacent fields. "Natural cosmetics" are, for instance, frequently equated with "vegan cosmetics", but not every natural cosmetic product is vegan and not every vegan product is also a natural cosmetic product. In order to protect consumer interests and to have a clear delimitation to the adjoining fields, many standards under private law for organic and natural cosmetics have established themselves on the international market based on different criteria. Moreover, there are also individual governmental guidelines and recommendations, such as the Austrian Food Code. In order to provide ail interested circles with an orientation and an overview of the many different standards, the status quo of the core statements in the natural cosmetics standards have been summed up below. In this connection the fundamental criteria for cosmetic formulations are stated which encompass at least these standards and which, therefore, correspond to the general consumer expectations in respect of natural and organic cosmetics in Europe. Note de contenu : - Raw materials/processes - Auxiliary materials - Organic cosmetics - Range requirements En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tMS-0hI3AUfEJbYJIsoosnx5fDUoVtpu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30737 [article]

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Rheological and texture analysis methods for the assessment of viscoelasticity / Slobodanka Tamburic in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018) . - p. 20-25 Titre : Rheological and texture analysis methods for the assessment of viscoelasticity Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Slobodanka Tamburic, Auteur ; Milica C. Stevic, Auteur ; Helen Sisson, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 20-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Carbomères Les carbomères sont des polymères synthétiques hydrophiles d'acide acrylique. Les carbomères sont utilisés comme émulsions stabilisatrices ou comme agents épaississants ayant l'apparence d'un gel aqueux dans l'industrie pharmaceutique ou cosmétique. L'aminométhyl propanol permet de les stabiliser sous la forme d'un gel. Cosmétiques -- Analyse Cosmétiques -- Texture Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Gomme de xanthane La gomme xanthane est un polyoside obtenu à partir de l'action d'une bactérie, la Xanthomonas campestris. Elle est soluble à froid et est utilisée comme additif alimentaire sous le code E415 pour ses propriétés épaississantes et gélifiantes afin de modifier la consistance des aliments. Le xanthane est l'un des exopolysaccharides excrétés par divers microorganismes du sol (bactéries notamment). Il joue un rôle important, à l'échelle moléculaire, dans la formation et la conservation des sols3, tout comme le dextrane, le rhamsane ou les succinoglycanes. Rhéologie Viscoélasticité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The purpose of this study was to compare the dynamic (oscillatory) rheological method with a novel texture analysis (TA) method for the assessment of viscoelastic properties of cosmetic semisolids. The instruments used in this study were an air-bearing controlled-stress rheometer (RheoStress RS75, Haake, Germany) and a texture analyser (TA.XT Plus, Stable Micro Systems, UK). The model formulation was a standard semisolid emulsion, containing increasing concentrations of carbomer and xanthan gum, respectively. The rheological methods used were stress sweep (0.5-500 Pa at 1 Hz) and frequency sweep (0.01-10 Hz at 10 Pa). The texture analysis method used was an immersion/de-immersion test with cylindrical probe. The results were analysed for their consistency with theoretical predictions and the presence of any correlations between the methods. The analysis revealed consistent trends related to two novel TA parameters, stringiness (which decreased with the increase in thickener concentration) and resilience (which has shown a mild increasing trend). Elastic modulus G' and viscous modulus G" (both at 1 Hz) were positively correlated to resilience and negatively correlated to stringiness, indicating that those TA parameters reflect the viscoelastic status of the sample. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1. : Visual representation of the oscillatory rheology method and texture analysis method - Fig. 2 : Typical curve obtained by immersion/de-immersion test on texture analyser, expressed as force vs. time - Fig. 3 : Oscillatory stress sweep results for 0.1% carbomer, showing a decrease in the complex modulus (G* - red line) and an increase in the phase angle (δ- green ling) at stress levels above 20 Pa - 4. Elastic moduli for the emulsion samples with increasing carbomer concentrations - Fig. 5 Elastic moduli for the emulsion samples with increasing xanthan gum concentrations - Fig. 6 : Typical curve obtained by immersion/de-immersion test on texture analyser, expressed as force vs. distance. Stringiness is defined as the distance that the product is extended during de-immersion stage before separating from the probe ; a) emulsion with 0.1% carbomer ; b) emulsion with 0.5% carbomer - Fig. 7 : TA graphs of the emulsions with increasing concentrations of carbomer, showing two district areas of the positive curve (A3 and A4), which were used to calculate the parameter resilience, as A4/A3 - Fig. 8. Linear regression fit betwen a TA parameter resilience and two oscillatory parameters, elastic modulus G' and viscousmodulus G", for the series of emulsions with carbomer - Fig. 9. Linear regression fit between a TA parameter stringiness and two oscillatory parameters, elastic modulus G' and viscous modulus G", for the series of emulsions with xanthan gum - Table 1 : The formulation of the semisolid w/o emulsion used in the study - Table 2 : Oscillatory rheology parameters obtained at the frequency of 1 Hz for the emulsion samples stabilised with carbomer and xanthan gum. All values represent the mean of 3 measurements, with the coefficient of variation below 5% - Table 3 : Texture analysis parameters of the emulsion samples stabilised with carbomer and xanthan gum En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NLvR09lbNA2cns_g14Lir8nIUd_pZSno/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30738 [article]

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Intellectual property rights in cosmetics / Annekathrin Seifert in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 6 (06/2018) . - p. 28-33 Titre : Intellectual property rights in cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Annekathrin Seifert, Auteur ; Jens Wortmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 28-33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Brevets d'invention Cosmétiques Propriété intellectuelle (droit international) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : New products in the field of cosmetics, be it an active ingredient, a new formulation of known ingredients, an application system etc., often afford years of research and development before approaching the market. Only a time of exclusive use en-sures that this investment is worthwhile. Therefore, the developer of a new cosmetic product should seek for a comprehensive protection against potential counterfeiters. In this article we present options for a protection that is as complete as possible by effective use of the available intellectual property rights (IP rights). Furthermore, we give some important notes to avoid patent infringement when marketing cosmetic compositions. Note de contenu : - ALL-ROUND PROTECTION OF COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS : Trademarks - Design protection - Patents - AVOIDING PATENT INFRINGEMENT - Fig. 1 : All-round protection of cosmetic composition - Fig. 2 : Duration of the patent - Fig. 3 : Pitfall I direct infringement - Fig. 4 : Pitfall II indirect infringement - Fig. 5 : An example of indirect patent infringement En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4Tf4leAg1_kfkLna2NmrZcFryiiHDt8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30739 [article]

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