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Bio-derived polyitaconates in personal care / Neil Kilcullen in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017) . - p. 2-7 Titre : Bio-derived polyitaconates in personal care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Neil Kilcullen, Auteur ; J. Bacon, Auteur ; A. Larribau, Auteur ; M. Seurin, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Polyitaconate Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Naturally-derived and sustainable materials are in increasing demand for use in Personal Care. The RevCare Natural Effects polyitaconate product range has been developed to meet these demands. In this study the benefit of these polyitaconate polymers for Hair Care has been demonstrated. Polyitaconate can outperform benchmark synthetic polymers in high humidity style retention tests, outperform commercial products in frizz control tests and help prevent heat damage during thermal styling as evidenced using tensile strength measurements, comb resistance measurements and SEM imaging. Consequently, polyitaconates offer a viable alternative to synthetic materials in a variety of Hair Care applications. Note de contenu : - Style rentention test - Frizz control test - Heat damage study - FIGURES : 1. High humidity style retention (25°C/85 RH) - 2. Frizz control (24 hours at 25°C/85% RH) - 3a. Individual fibre strength (10 treatment cycles) - 3b. SEM image of individual fibres (20 heat treatment cycles) - 4. Comb resistance (10 treatment cycles) - 5. Broken fibre count (20 heat tratment cycles) - 6a. Comb resistance (10 heat treatment cycles) - 6b. SEm-images of individual hair fibres (20 heat treatment cycles) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FBQGz1DYlSlJs-MrbHSFmT0qvw7FBBP5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29385 [article]

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Glycine-betaine working at the core of the hair fibre / C. L. Gummer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017) . - p. 8-12 Titre : Glycine-betaine working at the core of the hair fibre Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. L. Gummer, Auteur ; Carole Gherardi, Auteur ; Piera Pericu, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 8-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bétaïnes Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Glycine Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair fibres have no active or renewable protective mechanisms, yet hair provides an essential beauty and protective function where each fibre may need to last several years. Glycine-betaine (GENENCARE OSMS BA by DuPont Industrial Biosciences), well known for its protein protection and osmolyte properties has established skin benefits and has the potential to protect and improve the protein structure of hair as it experiences the rigours of everyday cosmetic routines. Using a variety of analytical HPLC and HPDSC (High Pressure Differential Scanning Calorimetry), molecule vibration and rotation (Raman spectroscopy) and mechanical (tensile testing techniques), it has been demonstrated that Glycine-betaine is a natural component of human hair. In addition, it has been shown that it can be delivered to the cortex of the hair using typical hair care formulations. When present in the cortex, Glycine-betaine helps to influence the relationship between intermediate filaments (IF's) and intermediate filament associated proteins (IFAP's) resulting in improved hair strength. Note de contenu : - Glycine-betaine, a natural component of hair - Delivery of glycine-betaine from a shampoo in vivo - Penetration of glycine-betaine in to the fibre sub structure - Measuring the effect of glycine-betaine on cortex proteins - The effect of glycine-betaine on hair tensile properties (strength) - FIGURES : 1. Increase of glycine-betaine content in hair after wash with shampoo with 5% glycine-betaine LSMEANS from GLM (General Linear Model) with FIXED and RANDOM effects Tukey Pairwise Comparison show a significant effec of the treatment (p=0;036) - 2. Raman confocal microscopy study indicates that glycin-betaine infiltrates into hair shaft and covers evenly its cross-section - 3. Mean fluorescence intensity (a.u.) and pictures of hair cortex before and after shampoo washing - 4. Cross section of a cortical cell showing intermediate filaments (white dots) embedded in a matrix of intermediate filament associated proteins - 5. Reduction in enthalpy of normal virgin hair washed with 2% aqueous glycine-betaine for 2 minutes - 6. Increased elastic modulus and stress at 15% elongation after 15 minutes treatment with 5% glycine-betaine En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VE_70gh1KLoLknIxkqFYnCPpIgHTcLVm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29386 [article]

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Don't let skin and hair go up in smoke : Perception, effects and studies associated with anti-pollution / Elisabeth Streefland in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017) . - p. 14-16 Titre : Don't let skin and hair go up in smoke : Perception, effects and studies associated with anti-pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Elisabeth Streefland, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 14-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The anti-pollution trend in personal care continues. Consumers have become increasingly aware of environmental influences that can damage their skin and hair, and the cosmetic industry reacts concomitantly. This article is meant to give a concise overview of the perception and the effects of pollution as well as highligths methods to support anti-pollution claims. Note de contenu : - Skin care - Hair care - Fig. 1. Market leading cleansing oil compared to Cithrol 10GTIS cleanser, tested on a 50µm film of artificial sebum/carbon mixture on PMMA plates. Result after rinsing - Fig. 2a. A demonstrative test with keratinocytes inculture revealed a visibly reduced uptake of particulate matter particles into the cell in the presence of Citytem. This kind of particle is normally embedded around the nucleus which can be observed by microscopy. Incorporated in the cell the particles can easily affect the cell metabolism - Fig. 2b. At TO the amount of comedones and sebum was analysed on the nose. Four weeks later, after a twice daily application of a cream containing 2% CITYSTEM the same test protocole was repeated. With the anti-pollution properties of CITYSTEM the skin looked visibly purified and refreshed Fig. 3. In an ex vivo study of the adhesion of polluting particles on permed hair, it can clealy be seen that less pollutants adhere to the surface of the hair after treatment with FRUITBIO Fig. 4. Schematic representation of ToF-SIMS (Time of Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectroscopy) used to create an image of the hair's surface : each individual corresponds to a signal measured on the spectrometer, with the green areas indicating the deposition areas of Kerestore 2.0 along the hair fibre En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1manc_9aH3iyMExGSJkMF412Ks_w5H0hv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29387 [article]

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Long-term retinol decomposition profile and emulsion chassis & package impact to destabilization / Hoyun Kim in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017) . - p. 18-25 Titre : Long-term retinol decomposition profile and emulsion chassis & package impact to destabilization Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hoyun Kim, Auteur ; Shinyoung Park, Auteur ; Taeseok Kim, Auteur ; Hyungju Ahn, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 18-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie analytique Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Encapsulation Formulation (Génie chimique) Statistique Vitamine A Vitamine A -- Stabilité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : Retinol (vitamin A) is known as safe and best anti-aging functional ingredient for cosmetic application. However retinol is unstable under environmental condition - temperature, light, components and aged time ect. Therefore, there have been many efforts to stabilize retinol against oxidation by applying the liposomes utilizing many kinds of applicable ingredients. However, most of the studies were limited to a period within 1-3 months with some typical anto-oxidants and there was rarely a study conducted over 12 months, although cosmetics were often used much longer. In this study we chose triply encapsulated retinol with polycaprolactone, lecithin and silica, and applied to 5 bio-mimetic cosmetic oil-in-water emulsions to find solutions against the decomposition of retinol. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS - METHODS : Preparation of cosmetic emulsion - Package component impact to retinol stability - Analysis by polar microscopic view - Analysis by SAXS and WAXS - Retinol concentration assay - HPLC method analysis - Measures by UV vis absorption spectrophotometer - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Microscopic view analysis - SAXS & WAXS analysis - Decomposition profile of encapsulated retinol under different temperatures - Retinol stability profile under UV-visible spectrophotometer - Comparison of retinol stability plot between LC and UV-visible spectrophotometer - Decomposition profile of encapsulated retinol per package component - Table : Formulation on cosmetic chassis En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/137S6NtxKYnOie89ZHkOTB2Y_y8QUBlHe/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29388 [article]

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Safety, quality and impact of cosmetics / Klaus Henning in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017) . - p. 30-42 Titre : Safety, quality and impact of cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Klaus Henning, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 30-42 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Antimicrobiens Cancérogènes Conservateurs (chimie) Cosmétiques -- Conservation Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie Dermo-cosmétologie Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Evaluation Ingrédients cosmétiques Mutagènes Nanoparticules Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Texture Produits chimiques -- Sécurité Sécurité des produits de consommation Substances dangereuses -- Evaluation du risque Tests d'efficacité Toxicologie de la reproduction Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - Nanomaterials for ingredients of cosmetics - Safety informations and safety evaluations - Exposition, toxicological profile and systemic effects - Use of cmr substances - Usage of cmr substances - Open questions - Reporting of undesirable effects with cosmetics - Observations - GMP and company standards - Preservation and preservatives - Cardinal mistakes on preservation of cosmetics : influence of the ph value - incorrect evaluation of the preservative properties - substance properties supporting the preservation - technical production failures - modification of the preservative system - procedure of contaminated products - Biozid-booster - Sensory product characteristics - Correlations with "preference mapping" - Age changes of the skin - Performance test by measuring of skin texture - Anti-pollution strategies of cosmetics - Testing of anti-pollution effectiveness - Anti-pollution claim - Claims and verity - Proof of the claimed effect - Gradation by hazardousness - Delimitation in advertising - Prohibition of misleading cosmetics - TABLES : 2. Characteristics of products with low microbiological risk - 3. Process control according to EN ISO 175 16/2014 - 4. Microbial active substances of Annex V according to EU Cosmetics Regulations (EG) 1223/2009 - 5. Examples of boosters or so called multifunctional antimicrobial - 6. Determination of sufficient preservation against P. aeruginosa, S. Aureus, C. albicans and A. brasilensis by using biocides and boosters - 7. Negative effects of air pollutions on the skin - FIGURES : 2. Increasing the effectiveness of the antimicrobial efficacy of CIT/MIT against C. albicans by biocide boosters for the preparation of a face cream - 3. Increasing the effectiveness of the antimicrobial efficacy of CIT/MIT against fungi by biocide boosters for the preservation of a face tonic - 4. Categories of evaluation options of productions - 5. Process of a sensory examination of an O/W emulsion - 6 Correlation with preference mapping En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Dlngigp2cwI-XpvjbLhVFZi_3XqkDmpu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29390 [article]

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