How different is human hair ? A critical appraisal of the reported differences in global hair fibre characteristics and properties towards defining a more relevant framework for hair type classification / Gabriela Daniels in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 50-61 Titre : How different is human hair ? A critical appraisal of the reported differences in global hair fibre characteristics and properties towards defining a more relevant framework for hair type classification Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Gabriela Daniels, Auteur ; Ashiana Fraser, Auteur ; Gillian E. Westgate, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 50-61 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Africain(ne)s Asiatiques Caucasien(ne)s Cheveux -- Classification Cheveux bouclés Densité Dermatologie Fibre capillaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This review critically appraises the reported differences in human hair fibre within three related domains of research: hair classification approaches, fibre characteristics and properties. The most common hair classification approach is based on geo-racial origin, defining three main groups: African, Asian and Caucasian hair. This classification does not account sufficiently for the worldwide hair diversity and intergroups variability in curl, shape, size and colour. A global classification into eight curl types has been proposed but may be too complex for reproducibility. Beyond that, hair cross-sectional shape and area have been found to have an inverse relation to curl: straighter fibres are circular with larger cross-sectional area, whilst the curlier fibres are elliptical with smaller cross-sectional area. These geometrical differences have been associated with bilateral vs homogenous distribution of cortical cell in curly vs straight hair respectively. However, there is no sufficient data demonstrating significant differences in hair amino composition, but proteomic studies are reporting associations of some proteins with curly hair. Eumelanin’s relative abundance has been reported in all hair colours except for red hair which has a high pheomelanin content. Higher tensile and fatigue strength of straight hair are reported, however, curly hair fragility is attributed to knotting, and crack and flow formations rather than the structural variations. African hair has been found to have the highest level of lipids, whilst the water sorption of Caucasian hair is the highest, and that of Asian hair the lowest. Not all comparative studies clearly report their hair sampling approaches. Therefore, to strengthen the robustness of comparative studies and to facilitate cross-study data comparisons, it is recommended that the following hair defining characteristics are reported in studies: hair cross sectional diameter/area, curl type, hair assembly colour, as well as where possible donor data (age/gender) and sample pooling approach. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Historical perspectives on hair classifications - Hair characteristics - Hair fibre properties - Table 1 : Search terms applied for each search topic - Table 2 : Hair density DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12819 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b6wOBEKSfPwVcGsNkV8ilEYGvJpQENGH/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38819 [article]

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Tara (Caesalpinia spinosa) gum, a multifunctional polymer for hair care / Mélanie Marcant in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 6 (06/2024)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 150, N° 6 (06/2024) . - p. 34-38 Titre : Tara (Caesalpinia spinosa) gum, a multifunctional polymer for hair care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mélanie Marcant, Auteur ; Carole Lepilleur, Auteur ; Eulalia Peri, Auteur ; Ninon Audibert, Auteur ; Carol Kyer, Auteur ; Denise Wade Rafferty, Auteur ; Bryan Moran, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 34-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux bouclés Cosmétiques Galactomannane Le galactomannane est un polyoside (polymère d'ose) présent dans de nombreuses graines. Le galactomannane est une fibre végétale soluble et acalorique présente dans les graines et sert de réserve de sucre lors de la germination. Elle est abondante dans l’albumen de graines de légumineuses, telle que la cyamopsis tetragonoloba1, de la Caesalpinia spinosa et de la Ceratonia siliqua. Le galactomannane est un polymère linéaire composé d'une chaine de monomères de mannose ((1,4)-beta-D-mannopyranose) auxquelles sont ramifiés par un pont 1-6 une unité de galactose. Les galactomannanes sont utilisés dans l'agro-alimentaire pour modifier la viscosité et la texture des aliments (boissons, crême glacée,...). Ils sont utilisés sous forme de gomme naturelle : gomme de guar (E412), gomme tara (E417) et gomme de caroube (E410). Gommes végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits après-shampooings Produits coiffants Tara et constituants C'est un petit arbre épineux avec des gousses plates rouge qui pousse dans les zones sèches du Pérou, Amérique du Sud. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Tara gum, a galactomannan derived from the seeds of the Caesalpinia Spinosa plant, is known for its high thickening capability, good solubility, and synergistic behavior with other hydrocolloids. While it has been widely used in the food industry as a stabilizer, thickener, and texturizer, its potential in the cosmetic industry is still being explored. This article studies the use of tara gum in various cosmetic applications, more specifically hair care products such as conditioners, treatments and styling formulations. The thickening ability and sensory contribution were assessed in hair conditioners. Tara gum’s styling performance was also evaluated by measuring the curl retention under high humidity conditions and hair stiffness. Additionally, a particle adhesion test simulated its effectiveness as a shield against pollution. Finally, associations with other synthetic or natural-derived polymers were explored. The results showed tara gum’s effectiveness in various hair care formulations. It enhanced viscosity and stability in conditioners, improved curl retention and resistance to high humidity in styling products, and reduced particle adhesion for pollution-resistant formulations. Synergies in combination with naturally derived and synthetic polymers were also demonstrated, with improved thickening or film-forming performance. Overall, these findings highlight tara gum’s potential as a natural and sustainable ingredient for high-performance and environmentally friendly cosmetic products. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : viscosity and yield value - Sensory analysis - High humidity spiral curl retention - Stiffness - Pollution simulation : particle adhesion - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Viscosity behavior - Tara in conditioners - Tara in styling products En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10rBMpcXpE2NZG0NQsd0pZgHQaZ14BHpI/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41227 [article]

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