[article]
| Titre : |
Roles of dextrin palmitate in waterless formulating |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Marion Geoffroy, Auteur ; Marc Lavarde, Auteur ; Javier Arrieta, Auteur ; Pascal Plejewski, Auteur ; Anne-Marie Pensé-Lhéritier, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2023 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Analyse sensorielle
Cosmétiques solides
Démaquillants
Emulsifiants
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Palmitate de dextrine
shampooings
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
École de Biologie Industrielle, Inabata France and FRM GaleSens explain why dextrin palmitate is much more than just a thickening agent and that it can be used to structure more complex solid formulas for developing waterless cleansing cosmetic products.
Dextrin Palmitate (CAS number 83271-10-7) is an organic compound derived from dextrin and obtained by esterification with palmitic acid.
This product is commercially available in the form of a fine white powder, and it is used as a thickener and consistency agent to improve the spreadability and the texture of a variety of solid and semi-solid cosmetics, such as lip gloss, mascaras, cleansing and massage products, hair conditioners, skin creams, and sunscreens to name a few. The thickening and consistency properties of the dextrin palmitate will mainly depend on the degree of residue in the dextrin ring.
Developing waterless cleansing cosmetic products is one of the eco-friendly initiatives towards a more sustainable innovation in the cosmetic industry. Solid cosmetics are indeed connected to changes in consumption habits of consumers who want to be implicated in the protection of the planet and consequently consume less products and packaging.
Solid shampoos, for example, claim a three times longer usage than liquid shampoos and require no plastic packaging. To better understand the formulation of these products, knowledge of the behaviour of thickening agents such as dextrin palmitate is an essential prerequisite.
Nowadays, the compatibility of dextrin palmitate with simple oil phases as well as the minimum concentrations to gelify these media is well known.2 On the other hand, there is little or no study on the behaviour of dextrin palmitate in more complex formulas. To effectively address such a complex issue, two formulations were developed: a makeup remover, in the form of a water/oil emulsion with little water content, and a solid shampoo. |
| Note de contenu : |
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Formula - Process of formulation - Instrumental measurement - Sensory studies
- RESULTS : Makeup remover gel - Makeup removing performance - Solid shampoo - Foaming performance
- Fig. 1 : Dextrin palmitate structure
- Table 1 : Makeup remover gel formula
- Table 2 : Solid shampoo formula |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1asilrKVqqxupNpTWOGjtcI5qEgVy68XA/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38770 |
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 1 (01/2023)
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