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SOFW JOURNAL . Vol. 142, N° 3Mention de date : 03/2016Paru le : 15/03/2016 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierHigh levels of free radicals in suncare products induce acne aestivalis in sensitive subjects / Katinka Jung in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)
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Titre : High levels of free radicals in suncare products induce acne aestivalis in sensitive subjects Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Katinka Jung, Auteur ; Thomas Herrling, Auteur ; Ulrike Heinrich, Auteur ; Hagen Tronnier, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 2-8 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons.
Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique...
Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie
Peau -- Inflammation
Produits antisolaires
Radicaux libres (chimie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The market segment of suncare products for protection of sensitive skin against photodermatosis is growing. Speciflcally, proection against Acne aestivalis ("Mallorca-Acne") is perceived as a strong claim for this product category. There is evidence that peroxide free radicals, deriving from certain formulation components, are involved in the induction of photo-toxic skin reactions. These UV-incluced free radicals can be assessed by an ESR-based method called Radical Potential (RP), by exposing formulations to UV radiation. The aim of this study was to find a correlation between the amount of UV inducible peroxides of sunscreen products and the clinical symptoms of Acne aestivalis. Two sunscreen formulas (SPF 30) containing organic UV-filters only, with an identical protection in the UV B region and a comparable protection in the UV A spectral range, have been produced. For both formulations the amount of UV-inducible free radicals was assessed by the RP (Radical Potential). In addition, bath formulas were tested in a clinical study with subjects with a history of Acne aestivalis. Very different RP values (levels of UV-induced free radicals) and completely different skin reactivity have been obtained, where an excellent correlation between the in vitro-parameter (RP) and the clinical symptoms could be shown. To our knowledge these results for the first time provide direct evidence for a strong correlation between UV inducible free radicals of formulations and the potential to induce A. aestivalis in sensitive subjects. Furthermore it offers a nationale for the development of law risk sunscreen formulations by selection of suitable filter systems combined with in situ ESR analysis. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xcreNyUK6raAM1sApbAVUsl5N9UabkIH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26668
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016) . - p. 2-8[article]Réservation
Réserver ce documentHigh-factor sunscreen - A balancing act between cosmetic elegance and efficiency / Monika Albuszies in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)
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Titre : High-factor sunscreen - A balancing act between cosmetic elegance and efficiency Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Monika Albuszies, Auteur ; Stefan Müller, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 10-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : High-quality sensory cosmetics and sunscreens with a high SPF are often regarded as an inherent contradiction. Sunscreens I are usualiy sticky and uncomfortable to use. ln particular, high-SPF products are often completely overloaded with filters that produce an unattractive white appearance. New and innovative raw materials, together with efficient UV filter combinations, can help with this problem. This article examines the way to approach this challenge and create such a product, based on the experience of developing Altruist Sunscreen. This example can help others to develop similar products. Note de contenu : - Filter selection for high-quality sensory sunscreens
- Choice of oils and emulsifiers
- UV filter composition through calculation of sun protection performance
- Principles of sun protection
- Examples of implementation, calculation and resultsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t7otyvfLk4T1iPGKCRSVNRyIaRmtFakW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26669
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016) . - p. 10-17[article]Réservation
Réserver ce documentA balanced approach for formulating sunscreen products using zinc oxide / Edward Bartholomey in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)
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Titre : A balanced approach for formulating sunscreen products using zinc oxide Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Edward Bartholomey, Auteur ; Stacey House, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 18-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Stabilité
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Nanoparticules
Oxyde de zinc
Procédés de fabrication
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Zinc oxide is a sunscreen ingredient for products that require formulations to have broad spectrum protection. Various particle sizes and coatings are available allowing flexibility in creating a sunscreen with a high SPF, PFA, and critical wavelength. Particle size can be varied to achieve optimal results and a wider range of product forms can be created. Surface treatments can help to improve the dispersibility and stability of zinc oxide in oils, esters, and aqueous systems. Note de contenu : - Manufacturing of zinc oxide
- Stability
- Chemical and physical properties
- Sunscreens
- Nanoparticles and zinc oxide
- UVA/UVB balance
- Particle engineering
- Non-nano zinc oxide
- Formulation
- Formulation 1 : Kobo oil-in-water sunscreen emulsion (non-nano zinc oxide dispersion) – KSL-264
- Formulation 2 : Kobo water-in-oil sunscreen emulsion (non-nano zinc oxide dispersion) – KSL-277A
- Formulation 3 : Kobo Oil-in-En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SPuWUwj6UKLIKHdaEWZ9ZGwXjoP-gMQ8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26670
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016) . - p. 18-25[article]Réservation
Réserver ce documentCryogenic donkey milk powder cosmetic properties demonstration / Katerina Vassilatou in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)
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Titre : Cryogenic donkey milk powder cosmetic properties demonstration Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Katerina Vassilatou, Auteur ; Claudio Angelinetta, Auteur ; Umberto Pianca, Auteur ; Silvia Busoli Badiale, Auteur ; Sara Savoia, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 26-33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Lait d'ânesseLe lait d'ânesse est le lait donné par la femelle de l'âne. Il connaît depuis l'antiquité égyptienne des utilisations tant alimentaires que cosmétiques.
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Donkey milk has been used since the antiquity bath for its nutritive as well as for its cosmetic properties. Even though the benefits of its oral consumption have been well documented, its cosmetic profile has been based only on its composition and has been reported without any scientific substantiation, NETO-Cryogenic Donkey Milk Powder has been tested for a series of activities both in vitro and in vivo. In particular, it has been tested for its short and long term moisturizing effect, its antiaging properties as well as for its anti-inflammatory and non-sensitizing potentat. All the tests have confirmed what tradition had carried as a well-kept secret, as it scored excellent results in all the above fields. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : IN VITRO TESTS : Analysis of the pro-sensitizing potential - Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory activity - Evaluation of ability to increase production of elastin in fibroblasts cell culture - Determination of cytotoxicity through the MTT assay - Results of the performed in vitro test - IN VIVO TEST : Participants and study design
- STATISTICAL METHODSEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z8ZX2oWmaYiLn-lPRAVGhy9JaQMN_cIh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26671
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016) . - p. 26-33[article]Réservation
Réserver ce documentThe dermal-epidermal junction : a key target for anti-ageing products / Jean-François Nicolaÿ in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)
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Titre : The dermal-epidermal junction : a key target for anti-ageing products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jean-François Nicolaÿ, Auteur ; Emmanuel Coste, Auteur ; Mathilde Fréchet, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 34-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Hydratation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Jonctions communicantes
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
RhamnoseLe Rhamnose est un désoxyose, précisément un désoxy-hexose du mannose.
Le rhamnose est un 6-désoxy-hexose du type aldose, il est constitué d’une chaîne de 5 éléments carbone ainsi que d’une fonction aldéhyde. Il peut être classifié soit comme un méthyl-pentose ou soit comme un 6-déoxy-hexose.
Taches pigmentaires (dermatologie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) is a key compartment of the skin, and its role is to attach the epidermis to the dermis in order to ensure good cohesion and resistance to the skin. With age, this DEJ may be altered, hence leading to premature ageing (loss of skin elasticity, impaired wound healing...).
Here we show that Sirhamnose, a rhamnose derivative, is capable of improving the expression of DEJ constituents (laminin, collagen IV, and collagen VII) hence leading to a thicker and healthier DEJ. In order to measure the impact of a healthy DEJ on the skin, a clinical test was performed and the 35 healthy volunteers received a daily treatment with Sirhamnose. Global skin improvements were observed, especially for hydration, firmness and skin tone uniformity. This data confirms that DEJ is a central actor in skin health, and that a specific treatment negates the effects of premature aging. The DEJ-specific product Sirhamnose is therefore a novel and original candidate for any anti-ageing treatment.Note de contenu : - Design of a bioavailable rhamnose derivative
- Sirhamnose efficacy : ex vivo study
- Sirhamnose efficacy : clinical study
- Skin hydration
- Skin structure
- Skin tone
- Age spotsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZpX54ajtUTbQ5q_e2S-khQZ8oV2-lwJv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26672
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016) . - p. 34-38[article]Réservation
Réserver ce documentThe holistic PIVOT profile : how ingredients influence sensoriality / Emmanuelle Merat in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)
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Titre : The holistic PIVOT profile : how ingredients influence sensoriality Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emmanuelle Merat, Auteur ; Nathalie Chevrot, Auteur ; Cécile Taillebois, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 40-46 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In recent years, sensoriality has become an increasingly important factor in consumer decisions to purchase cosmetic products. Traditional sensory assessments, such as sensory profiles, are time consuming (various steps of the test, training volunteers, result analysis). A new sensory method, known as the PIVOTS method, optimises the analysis by incorporating a a wide range of sensory attributes, highlighting the differences between various formulations, saving time on standardised steps describing the complete sensory process. The "Pivot profile" is based on the comparison of a constant formulation, known as "Pivot", with other formulations in which a few ingredients are changed. The evaluation is based on a "2 by 2" comparison of "Pivot" and the variant. In our experiment, 24 panellists evaluated 10 oil-in-water emulsions versus the "Pivot". The panellists described the cosmetic formulation relative to the "Pivot" formulation using "more" or "less" qualitative expressions. This provided an efficient method to underline the sensory benefit of each ingredient in the formulation, and helped to explain the influence of raw materials on the texture of a cosmetic product. We succeeded in obtaining some sensory variants thanks to SEPPIC ingredients. This holistic approach helps consumers to make a decision. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rjfONsbsRABmEZGSgtgXSG2675RgnqUw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26673
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016) . - p. 40-46[article]Réservation
Réserver ce documentMicrobiological safety assessment of cosmetic products in practice / Ulrich Eigener in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)
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Titre : Microbiological safety assessment of cosmetic products in practice : Part II, assessment for microbial contamination Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ulrich Eigener, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 48-54 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contamination microbienne
Cosmétiques -- Analyse
Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire
Evaluation
Sécurité des produits de consommation
Tests microbiologiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Part I (SOFW Journal, No. 1, 2016) showed how microbiological risks connected with cosmetic products can be evaluated and how such risks can be avoided using conceptual and target-oriented measures. In this regard, the safety assessment represents a measure to check for unacceptable risks.
Even after selection, verification and application of counter-measures for avoiding microbiological risks, contamination may occur, which will be detected in the course of product checks during manufacture or when complaint samples are tested. In such cases, an evaluation must be performed regarding the hazards for the product and the user during the application period. Consequently, appropriate corrections and corrective actions must be taken. Even though regulatory requirements already set out guidelines for the prevention of risks, case-by-case decisions are also necessary.
Hazard estimation and evaluation in the case of microbial contamination should be done in a systematic, professionally justifiable and traceable way. It has been explained (Part 1) that a risk is defined through the severity and probability of damage. However, in the absence of usable data on microbiological risks as-sociated with cosmetic products, a model should be used which works with contributory factors that influence probability.
The application of this model is described in the following text. The undoubted limitations of this approach are discussed at the end of this article.Note de contenu : - ACTIVITIES IN THE CASE OF POSITIVE MICROBIAL FINDINGS
- WORKING WITH THE MODEL : Exclusion of genera risk situations - Classification of contaminants' severity of damage - Use of the table for the evaluation of the probability of damage - Evaluation of the resulting overall risk
- FIGURE : Flow of activities after detection of product contamination -
- TABLES : 1. Contributory factors to the probability of damage (product/health) : ratings - 2. Evaluation for the case examples 1 and 2 - 3. Classification groups for probability of damage according to sum of rating numbers (evaluation sum) : limits - 4. Resulting overall risk and necessity of follow-up actionsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yqb_U3gKVo6pijIFNFkTCty9R4LvaoMs/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26674
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016) . - p. 48-54[article]Réservation
Réserver ce documentIKW quality assessment recommendation : compatibility of shoe uppers with care products (2015) / German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW) (Mainzer Landstrasse 55, Frankfurt am Main, Germany) in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)
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Titre : IKW quality assessment recommendation : compatibility of shoe uppers with care products (2015) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW) (Mainzer Landstrasse 55, Frankfurt am Main, Germany), Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 56-57 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Compatibilité chimique et physique
Cuirs et peaux -- Finition
Produits de nourriture du cuir
Qualité -- Contrôle
Tige de la chaussureIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Finishing agents based on aqueous formulations are increasingly used in leather and shoe production, often with a view to creating optical effects. This means that the colours of shoe uppers and finishing agents are intentionally quite different from each other. Darker finishing agents are frequently applied to naturally light leathers.
Such finishing agents are not usually smear and water resistant. For environmental reasons, many modern shoe creams are based mainly on solvent-free, water-based formulations. As a result, customer complaints regarding the use of aqueous emulsion creams in shoe care are increasing. Finishing agents can often be wiped off shoes with just a wet cloth. The use of dark finishing agents on light leathers causes light spots and does irreparable damage to shoes.
In modern commercial grade care sprays, such as waterproofing sprays, solvents are either alcohol or minerai spirits. However, not ail shoe uppers are compatible with these substances. In many cases, uppers are degraded or become swollen, which may cause irreparable damage to the shoes.
This IKW recommendation is intended to provide the shoe trade with an instrument for the quality assessment of the compatibility of shoe uppers with care products.
The recommendation can also be used in other fields, such as for leathers intended for furniture and bags.Note de contenu : 1. CARE PRODUCTS - Rub fastness : Method - Test specimen - Assessment - Explanation
2. COMPATIBILITY WITH SOLVENTS : Method (run-off test) - Assessment - Explanation
- ANNEX : IKW standard care product N° 1, 2 and 3En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RqAJewR_04egIyOKG5hEHMIbif04rd-7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26675
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016) . - p. 56-57[article]Réservation
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Titre : Intensive conditioning hair rinse, UW 955/1 Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 58 Note générale : Fiche formulation Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Formulation d'un produit cosmétique : Soins revitalisant des cheveux. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/195l4hWFWRU_pwg9c44Nk7ZchyDBFz4cC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41025
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016) . - p. 58[article]Réservation
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