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Quand simplicité rime avec multifonctionnalité / Anthony Boivin in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 76 (07-08/2022)
[article]
Titre : Quand simplicité rime avec multifonctionnalité Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anthony Boivin, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 42-50 Langues : Multilingue (mul) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Conditionnement
Cosmétiques solides
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Haute tolérance, respect de la peau et de la planète... Le leitmotiv des formules courtes incitant à mieux consommer pour soi et pour l’environnement . Souvent assimilés à des formules plus saines, ces formats concentrés à liste INCI réduite misent sur une efficacité optimisée et ne font plus de compromis sur la sensorialité immédiate. Note de contenu : - L'ère du tout-en-un
- Soin et hygiène : des formules à 10 ingrédients, pas plus
- Jouer sur les gradients de sensorialité
- Des formules versatiles sans limites
- Un packaging protecteur au dosage précis
- Une simplicité en toute sécurité
- Les actifs multifonctionnels ont mauvaise presse
- Rationaliser les matières premières
- Le solide redéfinit les codes industriels
- Tableau : Les principaux ingrédients multifonctionnels sur le marché et leur contribution en formuleEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Fi_YlW2R5e1jQGdjLZ5GNgptPnDXGgDG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37835
in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° 76 (07-08/2022) . - p. 42-50[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23514 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Roles of dextrin palmitate in waterless formulating / Marion Geoffroy in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 1 (01/2023)
[article]
Titre : Roles of dextrin palmitate in waterless formulating Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marion Geoffroy, Auteur ; Marc Lavarde, Auteur ; Javier Arrieta, Auteur ; Pascal Plejewski, Auteur ; Anne-Marie Pensé-Lhéritier, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Cosmétiques solides
Démaquillants
Emulsifiants
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Palmitate de dextrine
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : École de Biologie Industrielle, Inabata France and FRM GaleSens explain why dextrin palmitate is much more than just a thickening agent and that it can be used to structure more complex solid formulas for developing waterless cleansing cosmetic products.
Dextrin Palmitate (CAS number 83271-10-7) is an organic compound derived from dextrin and obtained by esterification with palmitic acid.
This product is commercially available in the form of a fine white powder, and it is used as a thickener and consistency agent to improve the spreadability and the texture of a variety of solid and semi-solid cosmetics, such as lip gloss, mascaras, cleansing and massage products, hair conditioners, skin creams, and sunscreens to name a few. The thickening and consistency properties of the dextrin palmitate will mainly depend on the degree of residue in the dextrin ring.
Developing waterless cleansing cosmetic products is one of the eco-friendly initiatives towards a more sustainable innovation in the cosmetic industry. Solid cosmetics are indeed connected to changes in consumption habits of consumers who want to be implicated in the protection of the planet and consequently consume less products and packaging.
Solid shampoos, for example, claim a three times longer usage than liquid shampoos and require no plastic packaging. To better understand the formulation of these products, knowledge of the behaviour of thickening agents such as dextrin palmitate is an essential prerequisite.
Nowadays, the compatibility of dextrin palmitate with simple oil phases as well as the minimum concentrations to gelify these media is well known.2 On the other hand, there is little or no study on the behaviour of dextrin palmitate in more complex formulas. To effectively address such a complex issue, two formulations were developed: a makeup remover, in the form of a water/oil emulsion with little water content, and a solid shampoo.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Formula - Process of formulation - Instrumental measurement - Sensory studies
- RESULTS : Makeup remover gel - Makeup removing performance - Solid shampoo - Foaming performance
- Fig. 1 : Dextrin palmitate structure
- Table 1 : Makeup remover gel formula
- Table 2 : Solid shampoo formulaEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1asilrKVqqxupNpTWOGjtcI5qEgVy68XA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38770
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 1 (01/2023)[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23785 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
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Titre : Solid sun care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nora Schiemann, Auteur ; Anne-Sophie Gardes, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 16-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Cosmétiques solides
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : When we analyse new product launches a significant part is about solid product forms.
In this context solid bar formats are the natural place to start. A much more concentrated formulation in terms of ingredients, solid formats can have a lower cost per use than traditional formats, which contain a lot more water, particularly in the haircare and bath or shower categories.
Packaging of solid bars can provide further sustainable benefits, using biodegradable cardboard as opposed to the large plastic container required to house liquid shampoo.
Mintel recommends that brands think more broadly when entering the waterless category than just eliminating water from the product. The true impact will come from how that product is used by the consumer, and more importantly, what is left over after the product is used up.
Boosting a solid product form works very well with oil soluble ingredients and particles. However, these ingredients should support the skin barrier and not compromise the skin microbiome.
Based on a product concept, which has been developed at the IMCD Skin Care and Sun Care Center of Excellence in Paris and which has been awarded by the SEPAWA Innovation Award 2021 we find a lot of inspiration.Note de contenu : - Solid product forms as an emerging trend
- Considerations for sun care
- Beauty Salon in a pill Box - finger beauty
- Boosting ingredients
- Formulation 1 : Solid sun cream with hydrating effectsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Oc0L8AZEPqhAOuYPnky5eB5WUeD9EhB8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37925
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022) . - p. 16-18[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23513 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Tailored sun protection : sunscreen for each of us for better photoprotection in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 1/2 (01-02/2024)
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Titre : Tailored sun protection : sunscreen for each of us for better photoprotection Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 32-41 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Cosmétiques pour enfants
Cosmétiques solides
Dermo-cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Lipophilie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Photoprotection
Phototype (dermatologie)En dermatologie, le phototype permet de classer les individus selon la réaction de leur peau lors d'une exposition solaire.
Produits antisolaires
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eauIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The concept of a one-size-fits-all sunscreen may be attractive, but it is an illusion. Each of us has different needs ; when it comes to sunscreens, factors like skin sensitivity, application format preferences and sensorial expectations vary depending on the purpose or area of use. Therefore, a single sunscreen formulation that meets every user’s expectations at any time is unrealistic. Hence, the objective of this paper is to guide formulators in providing formulation solutions that meet the various needs of individuals.
Note de contenu : - UV filters : a broad palette
- Sunscreens for summer vacation
- Photoprotection for dark skin
- Sunscreen for children
- Daily photoprotection
- Sunscreens for sport
- Eco-conscious photoprotection
- Compliance of users
- Take home messages
- Table 1 : Properties of UV filters used in subsequent formulation suggestions
- Table 2 : Sunscreen composition proposals for water resistant sunscreens with SPF 50-50+
- Table 3 : Sunscreen composition proposals for summer holidys sunscreens with SPF 50
- Table 4 : Sunscreen composition suggestion for dark-skinned indidivuals
- Table 5 : Effect of iron oxides to mask the greyish appearance caused by nanoparticulate filters in skin of different individual typology angle (ITA)
- Table 6 : Water-resosta,t S¨F 50-50+ sunscreen composition proposals for children
- Table 7 : Daily care photoprotection composition rated five Boots Stars
- Table 8 : Sunscreen compositions for solid creams
- Table 9 : Sunscreen compositions for clear lipophilic sprays with SPF 50 and 50+
- Table 10 : Eco-conscious sunscreen compositionsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rzGEzmX7yr2pBaqTruMcFjdDfRmYWWSh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40708
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 150, N° 1/2 (01-02/2024) . - p. 32-41[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 24427 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The 'solidification' of liquid shampoos and conditioners / Trevor Barker in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 4 (04/2022)
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Titre : The 'solidification' of liquid shampoos and conditioners Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Trevor Barker, Auteur ; Antonia Hantschel, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 28-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Consommateurs -- Préférences
Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement
Cosmétiques solides
Produits après-shampooings
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article will first explore the challenges and limitations of currently available shampoo bar formulations. It will then offer a revolutionary technology which allows improved performance and consumer acceptance, not just for solid shampoos but also for conditioners and other liquid products, instantly dissolving powders, tablets and paper sheets. It offers the persona( care industry the opportunity to re-develop a wide range of existing cosmetic formulations into solid forms.
Shampoo bars and other solid formats are growing in popularity worldwide. The last five years have seen an exponential increase in shampoo bar launches, from around 50 in 2016 to around 700 in 2021. This trend is likely to continue apace due to the unique drivers involved.
Unlike many drivers in our industry, it is clear that sustainability is more than just another fashion trend. The issues are real, widespread and extremely well documented. Furthermore, these issues are not going to go away.
The cosmetics industry is essentially consumer-driven. The needs and wants of the consumer are paramount when developing and marketing new products. In recent years there has been a move away from what has become known as 'greenwashing' towards more ethical considerations. This is, to a large extent, due to a better informed and more environmentally aware consumer base.
The sustainability theme captures a wide range of issues from palm-related deforestation to carbon footprint. It is clear that, currently, shampoo and conditioning bars, powders and tablets offer the consumer a product that ticks a number of boxes : water reduction, reduced carbon footprint and non-plastic packaging to name just a few. They represent a shift away from traditional formulations to a more sustainable and consumer-acceptable range of products.Note de contenu : - Current technology
- New technology
- Fibre-surfactant ratio
- Testing
- Additional formats
- Further workEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LbALKrM-MykgRTOatuaiCCeYwrFHHAEV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37404
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 4 (04/2022) . - p. 28-30[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23326 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The whys and wherefores of waterless formulating / Jessica Dynda in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 1 (01/2023)
PermalinkWhy solid shampoo ? What’s next for haircare ? / Agne Roke in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
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