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Functional vegan silk - Crafted by white biotechnology to utilise a new way to take care of damaged hair / Joachim Müller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)
[article]
Titre : Functional vegan silk - Crafted by white biotechnology to utilise a new way to take care of damaged hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Müller, Auteur ; Natalie Blost, Auteur ; Kristin Nessbach, Auteur ; Morgane de Tollenaere, Auteur ; Amandine Scandolera, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 34-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Actifs antidécoloration
Biopolymères
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Chimie biomimétique
PolypeptidesUn polypeptide est une chaîne d'acides aminés reliés par des liaisons peptidiques. On parle de polypeptide lorsque la chaîne contient entre 10 et 100 acides aminés. Au-dessus de 100 acides aminés on parle généralement de protéine.
Parmi eux, les peptides multi-cycliques, les peptides phosphorylés ou encore ceux intégrant des liaisons non-peptidiques ou des peptides conjugués.
Certains polypeptides constituent une famille d'antibiotiques dont les molécules très toxiques n'en permettent qu'un usage très limité. D'autres s’imposent aujourd’hui comme des éléments essentiels à la mise au point de vaccins ou de principes actifs destinés aux traitements de certaines pathologies telles que les cancers, les déficiences hormonales, l’ostéoporose.
Produits vegan
Soie et constituants
Soie végétaleIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Human hair can be damaged in many different ways. Frequently in everyday life, the natural fibres come into close contact with heat or chemical agents, which attack and damage their structure and can impair their visual appearance. In recent decades, various substances have been identified and developed by the cosmetics industry to minimize such influences. Previously, it has been reported that Silkgel, a breakthrough nature-inspired biopolymer from Givaudan Active Beauty, offers many unique benefits particularly for the use in hair care applications such as anti-pollution, anti-colour-fading and sensorial features.
A completely new application for this highly innovative, vegan and biomimetic raw material presents its use as conditioning agent to protect and repair the hair structure from damages. Due to its defined composition and its ability to self-assembly, the biotechnologically derived vegan silk polypeptides inside the Silkgel are able to form a protective and conditioning film onto the surface of the hair. Therefore, vegan silk molecules can represent a valid alternative to traditional and chemical protective conditioning agents based on hydrolysates such as keratin, wheat protein and wheat starch. According to our latest findings, it has been demonstrated that vegan silk polypeptides used as protective or repair conditioning agents were able to increase the breaking force as well as to decrease the 3D volume fraction of the damage (x-ray nanotomography) of thermally treated and dyed hair. Thus, in contrast to conventional raw materials based on e.g. silicones, which are commonly used for hair conditioning and protection, vegan silk represents a true ecological, natural-inspired and vegan alternative with an excellent protective and repairing performance for both thermal treatment and colouration of hair, thereby meeting the expectations of the highly innovative clean beauty market.Note de contenu : - THE HAIR STYLING MARKET WILL CONTINUE TO GROW WITH THE RISING CONSUMER DEMAND OF INNOVATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Evaluation of Silkgel as protection and hair repair agent - Ex vivo measurements of hair breakage using tensile testing - Hair protection study – thermal protection - Hair repair study – regeneration of thermally and chemically induced damages
- RESULTS : Vegan Silk – An excellent protection agent for hair care - Real added value – Silk treatments for hair repair Silk induced repair visualized using x-ray nanotomography
- CONCLUSION : Functional vegan silk – Meeting the performance and clean beauty market expectationsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17nsR89BCcY2z529gqLJce9TIQ-7Vs1O4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34598
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 34-43[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Functional vegan silk prolongs the effect of dihydroxyacetone in sunless self-tanning products / J. Muller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 12 (12/2018)
[article]
Titre : Functional vegan silk prolongs the effect of dihydroxyacetone in sunless self-tanning products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. Muller, Auteur ; Natalie Blost, Auteur ; Kristin Schacht, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 30-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Autobronzants
Cosmétiques
Dihydroxyacétone
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Soie végétaleIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : To achieve a sun-kissed and even tan throughout the year without exposure to harmful UV radiation, the use of self-tanning products is very popular among many consumers. The product selection in this segment is diverse, but alternatives to us active ingredients are low. Most manufacturers typically use dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which causes a tanning reaction in the uppermost skin layer. As the degree of tanning of the skin decreases steadily over time, for longer-lasting effects the self-tanning product must be reapplied at intervals of 3-5 days. Industry is looking for solutions to prolong those intervals. One interesting option is the use of vegan silk to extend the tanning effect. So far, the use of functional, vegan silk was proven to extend the release of fragrances and other actives such as insect repellents. Therefore, the influence of vegan silk on a potential prolonging effect on DHA has been investigated. In formulation, even at pre-set pH values between 4 and 5, for the combination of DHA and vegan silk an excellent stability was determined. Here, it has been proven that the formulation with functional vegan silk can achieve a longer-lasting tan. With increasing silk concentrations tanning results were significantly improved compared to the usage of a conventional formulation without silk. Note de contenu : - Sunless self-tanning - healthy tan without exposure to harmful radiation
- Dihydroxyacetone and vegan silk - a compatible system
- Long-tasting tan using vegan silk
- Fig. 1 : Skin protection study to show the filforming and protective properties of functional vegan silk
- Fig. 2 : Degree of browning of the treated skin areas exemplary for one test person on day 8
- Fig. 3 : Pourecentage decrease of the tanning-level of self-tanning gel treated areas over 8 days
- Fig. 4 : Schematic model to illustrate the prologing effect of silkgel on the tanning result with sunless self-tanning formulation
En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iht0eL6p1CSRcMRy5vIB9Lng6gEiEl4Q/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31519
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 12 (12/2018) . - p. 30-34[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20448 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Synthesis and appliation of hydrogel corn silk/ZnO composites on polyester fabric / Sachin M. Landage in TECHNICAL TEXTILES, Vol. 67, N° 1 (2023)
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Titre : Synthesis and appliation of hydrogel corn silk/ZnO composites on polyester fabric Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sachin M. Landage, Auteur ; R. R. Kaliya, Auteur ; F. F. Shirgave, Auteur ; S. B. Kadam, Auteur ; A. L. Kushwaha, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 1820 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Multilingue (mul) Catégories : Antimicrobiens
Composés organiques -- Synthèse
hydrocolloïdes
Hydrophilie
Maïs et constituants
Oxyde de zinc
Polyesters
Soie végétale
Textiles et tissus synthétiquesIndex. décimale : 677.47 Non cellulosiques : Nylon, acryliques, polyesters, vinyles Résumé : Corn silk is a clean and cheap agricultural waste with protein and cellulosic structure and traditionally usages was applied to polyester for the first time to increase the cell viability of zinc oxide on polyester fabric creating good hydrogel properties. The corn silk was first dried under sunlight, powdered and dispersed into the homogeneous solution using sodium hydroxide/ urea at a boil. Zinc acetate and a cationic surfactant along with the polyester fabric were placed in the alkali solution with or without corn silk at a boil for 1 hour. Very good antimicrobial properties against P. aeruginosa were obtained on the fabric containing corn silk/zinc oxide composites close to 100 and 87 %, respectively. Finally, the application of corn silk along with a synthesis of ZnO particles introduced a novel polyester fabric with antimicrobial, highly hydrophilic properties. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHOD : Materials - Methodology
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of treatment on thickness - Effect of treatment on fabric weight - Effect of treatment on swelling ratio - Effect of process parameters on antimicrobial activity
- Table 1 : Effect of synthesis and application parameters on the properties of the fabrics
- Table 2 : Effect of synthesis and application parameters on the properties of the fabrics
- Fig. 1 : Thickness of treated samples
- Fig. 2 : Fabric weight of the treated samples
- Fig. 3 : Fabric weight of the treated samples
- Fig. 4 : Antimicrobial activity of optimized samplesEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w78vWjmJJap2UAt19Qzzns93TAWM_BR3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40691
in TECHNICAL TEXTILES > Vol. 67, N° 1 (2023) . - p. 1820[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 24511 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
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Titre : Vegan silk - How can silk be vegan ? : Properties and application of functional vegan silk compared to hydrolysed silk from cocoon of silkworms Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nathalie Blosi, Auteur ; Kristin Schacht, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 42-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biotechnologie
Fermentation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Soie végétaleIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Silk has historically been associated with a high status or opulence. Even today silk plays a big role in the fashion and beauty industry. Silk is due to its conditioning and nourishing effect an excellent choice for skin and hair care products.
In general, silk is a protein, which is spun into fibres by e.g. silkworms, spiders, flies, scorpions and mites.The term silk was more exactly defined by Catherine Craig (scientist and expert for silks): “Silks are fibrous proteins containing highly repetitive sequences of amino acids, stored as liquid and transferred into fibers when sheared at secretion.” Silk produced by silkworms and spiders are the most investigated silk types.
Silk from the cocoon of silkworms is one of the most frequently used proteins in cosmetic products. A high demand of silk for the beauty industry has become a real challenge for nature. For the production of one kilogram raw silk 6600 silkworms and approx. 200 kg mulberry tree leaves are necessary.
Another promising source for silk proteins is spider silk. Spider silk proteins are known for their qualities to add smoothness to the skin and leaving a silky feeling. But the production of spider silk is limited. Due to their cannibalistic and territorial behavior, spiders are very difficult to farm.To deliver a non-animal derived silk, the research was driven to nature inspired by the superior properties of spiders’ silk. For the production of innovative vegan silk proteins, Givaudan Active Beauty has developed the Advanced Silk Technology. Silk proteins are produced in a biotechnological process using fermentation.Note de contenu : - Production process of functional vegan silk compared to animal-derived hydrolysed silk
- Proeprties and application in cosmetic formulations
- Fig. 1 : Comparison of the production process of vegan silk and animal-derived hydrolysed silk (from silkworm)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pAx8yfNxmG87aRDNyoeRvdhqv2_jILxd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33688
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019) . - p. 42-44[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21411 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible