Super mild oxidation coloring : preventing hair damage at the molecular level / Thomas Doering in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 10, N° 4 (10-11-12/2007)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 10, N° 4 (10-11-12/2007) . - p. 323-329 Titre : Super mild oxidation coloring : preventing hair damage at the molecular level Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Doering, Auteur ; Claudia Brockmann, Auteur ; Armin Wadle, Auteur ; Detlef Hollenberg, Auteur ; Thomas Förster, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 323-329 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Acide  alpha  lipoique'  'Anti-oxydant'  'Cheveux  abimés'  'Colorant  pour  cheveux'  'Spectroscopie  infrarouge  proche' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hydrogen peroxide is widely used for oxidation hair coloring or bleaching. It displays a high redox potential and easily penetrates into the hair fiber. This renders hydrogen peroxide capable of non-specific interactions with cortex and cuticle proteins resulting in irreversible cleavage of cystine crosslinks. Various classes of antioxidants were screened for their anti-hair damage effect in a permanent hair dye formulation using NIR spectroscopy. In parallel, the effect on the coloring and lightening performance was studied to exclude unwanted side effects on primary product performance. The screening criteria were fulfilled by organic disulfides such as α-lipoic acid but interestingly not by powerful antioxidants such as tocoperol, dibutylhydroxytoluene, or beta-carotene. Alpha-lipoic acid significantly protected human hair during oxidation coloring as demonstrated by (i) amino acid and protein analysis, (ii) surface polarity measurement, (iii) lipid analysis, (iv) differential scanning calorimetry, and (v) combing work measurement. Our results show that radical scavenging properties alone do not render antioxidants suitable for hair protection during oxidative treatments. The presence of disulfide bonds appears to be very favorable and it is likely that the intramolecular cross-link within α-lipoic acid provides a kinetically controlled protection for cystine crosslinks during oxidation coloring. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10417 [article]

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UV filters for hair protection / P. Bernhardt in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 15, N° 5 (10/1993)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 15, N° 5 (10/1993) . - p. 181–199 Titre : UV filters for hair protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : P. Bernhardt, Auteur ; M. Giesen, Auteur ; Detlef Hollenberg, Auteur ; M. Hubbuch, Auteur ; H. E. Maier, Auteur ; V. Martin, Auteur ; H. P. Münzing, Auteur ; T. Oelschläger, Auteur ; A. Schwan, Auteur ; K. Sperling, Auteur ; J. Tennigkeit, Auteur Année de publication : 1993 Article en page(s) : p. 181–199 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Détérioration Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair damage, caused by sunlight, and the possibility to protect hair against sunlight by means of cosmetic formulations was studied. For this, five UV-filters were tested: benzophenone-3 (UV-A/UV-B); benzophenone-4 (UV-A/UV-B); phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (UV-B); butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (UV-A); octyl dimethyl PABA (UV-B). The stability of the UV-filters was tested as pure substances as well as in two cosmetic formulations : a setting lotion and a shine spray. The degree of decolouration and stress strain behaviour were determined. The benzophenones had the best protection ability both on colour and on morphology. Stability data and UV-spectra are discussed. DOI : 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1993.tb00074.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1993.tb00074.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26569 [article]

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