Enhanced retinoid response by a combination of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate with niacinamide and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models / E. C. S. Lam in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 102-106 Titre : Enhanced retinoid response by a combination of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate with niacinamide and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : E. C. S. Lam, Auteur ; R. Li, Auteur ; M. R. Rodrigues, Auteur ; L. Vires, Auteur ; R. L. Adams, Auteur ; J. D. Sherrill, Auteur ; J. E. Oblong, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 102-106 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Kératinocytes Les kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis). Nicotinamide Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Rétinyl propionate Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Retinoids have been used for decades as efficacious topical agents to treat photoaged skin. The purpose of our present research is to evaluate whether the activity of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate (RP) can be enhanced by niacinamide (Nam) and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua (CS) fruit extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models. - Methods : Retinyl propionate was tested alone and in combination with Nam and CS in an RARα reporter cell line for promoter activation and compared to trans-retinoic acid (tRA) activation. These treatments were also tested in keratinocytes for gene expression profiling by qPCR using a panel of 40 retinoid responsive genes. - Results : tRA or RP elicited RARα reporter activation in a dose-dependent manner. The combination of 0.5 μM or 2 μM RP with 10 mM Nam had a 56% and 95% signal increase compared to RP, respectively. The addition of 1% CS to 0.5 μM or 2 μM RP with 10 mM Nam elicited a further increase of 114% and 156%, respectively, over RP and Nam combinations. All retinoids elicited an increase in expression of 40 retinoid sensitive genes over control levels. Of the 40 genes, 27 were enhanced by either 0.1 μM RP or 0.5 μM RP with 10 mM Nam and 1% CS. Nam or CS had very modest activity in both models. - Conclusion : The combination of RP with Nam and CS showed a higher retinoid response than RP in two separate retinoid responsive in vitro models. We hypothesize Nam and CS enhances RP activity by modulating metabolism to tRA via increasing NAD+ pools and inhibiting reduction of retinal (RAL) back to retinol, respectively. The findings provide evidence that this combination may have enhanced efficacy for treating the appearance of photoaged skin. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12669 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19JaiRMJdiOOfxYlxu_dmVHCdIaMZfbBY/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35448 [article]

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Retinyl propionate and climbazole combination demonstrates clinical improvement to the appearance of hyperpigmentation and deep wrinkling with minimal irritation / S. Hawkins in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 589-599 Titre : Retinyl propionate and climbazole combination demonstrates clinical improvement to the appearance of hyperpigmentation and deep wrinkling with minimal irritation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Hawkins, Auteur ; J. Adamus, Auteur ; C.-y. Chiang, Auteur ; E. Covell, Auteur ; J. O'Leary, Auteur ; J.-m. Lee, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 589-599 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Climbazole Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Rétinyl propionate Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : To evaluate a combination of retinyl propionate and climbazole (RPC) compared to 0.1% retinol for its efficacy, tolerance and ageing appearance. Method : Forty-five healthy Caucasian females, ages 40–70, with moderately photodamaged facial skin, were recruited for a 16-week randomized, double-blind, IRB-approved facial study. The efficacy of RPC treatment was compared to 0.1% retinol, in the same product base formulation, with twice daily, split-face product application. Changes in overall photodamage, fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation and irritation were visually evaluated and measured by instrumentation. Subjective appraisal of efficacy was self-assessed from images where subjects were blinded to treatment and time point. Irritancy potential was also evaluated in a 5-day randomized, double-blind, IRB-approved patch study. Results : Treatment with RPC resulted in significant (P < 0.05) improvement in ageing attributes compared to 0.1% retinol treatment, with minimal irritation. More than 50% of subjects showed improvement to deep wrinkles in the crow's feet area after 5 weeks of product application, and continued improvement to deep wrinkles was observed throughout the course of the study. Similarly, improvement was observed for the appearance of lines and wrinkles in the nasolabial fold (NLF) and for mottled hyperpigmentation. The results from subjective self-assessment confirmed in vivo clinical assessments. In a separate patch study, significantly less irritation was observed with the RPC product as compared to the 0.1% retinol control product. Conclusion : RPC delivered significant skin anti-ageing benefits comparable or greater than 0.1% retinol, with minimal irritation. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Clinical safety study design and treatment - Clinical efficacy study design and treatment - Clinical assessments - VISIA -CR image analysis - PRIMOS analysis - Photograph self-assessments - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Safety study -Efficacy study - DISCUSSION DOI : 10.1111/ics.12412 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29469 [article]

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