An extract of Leontopodium alpinum inhibits catagen development ex vivo and increases hair density in vivo / Remo Campiche in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 363-376 Titre : An extract of Leontopodium alpinum inhibits catagen development ex vivo and increases hair density in vivo Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Alizée Le Riche, Auteur ; Janin Edelkamp, Auteur ; Alfonso Fernandez Botello, Auteur ; Emmanuel Martin, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; Marta Bertolini, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 363-376 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Edelweiss et constituants Follicule pileux Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Hair loss and reduction in hair volume are hallmarks of hair disorders, such as telogen effluvium, or male or female pattern hair loss, and hair ageing, which can cause severe distress in both men and women. Common anti-hair loss drugs carry some side effects; therefore, novel, safer approaches targeting milder phenotypes are highly advocated. In this context, we investigated an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss, Leontopodium alpinum var. Helvetia, for its ability to modulate hair follicle (HF) growth ex vivo and inhibit hair loss while increasing hair regeneration in vivo. - Methods : Human amputated HFs were microdissected from three donors, two women and one man, and cultured ex vivo for 6 days. After treatment with 0.001% Edelweiss extract (EWDE), we investigated hair shaft production and anagen/catagen conversion, and measured known parameters associated with hair growth, that is hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation and apoptosis, dermal papilla inductivity, and growth factors, by quantitative (immuno)histomorphometry. To assess the anti-hair loss potential of the alpine plant compound, we performed a randomized, placebo-controlled human study enrolling Caucasian women and men, aged 18 to 65 years, with normal hair loss. After 5 months’ daily use of an extract containing leave-on serum, we analysed hair density and anagen-to-catagen/telogen ratio by the Trichogram analysis. - Results : Our results revealed a significant prolongation in the anagen phase in HFs treated with 0.001% Edelweiss, as indicated by an increase in HFs remaining in anagen and a significant decrease in hair cycle score. In line with this effect, EWDE significantly stimulated hair matrix (HM) keratinocyte proliferation, and dermal papilla inductivity, as shown by a significant up-regulation of versican expression and alkaline phosphatase activity, and a tendential increase in FGF7 immunoreactivity in the dermal papilla of all HFs or only anagen VI HFs. Corroborating the ex vivo results, we observed a significant increase in growing hair shaft numbers (hair density) after treatment with Edelweiss extract formulation, and a tendential up-regulation in the anagen-to-catagen/telogen ratio. - Conclusions : We show here, through several lines of evidence, that the selected extract of the alpine plant Leontopodium alpinum var Helvetia (Edelweiss) inhibits premature catagen induction, possibly by stimulating dermal papilla inductivity. It is therefore worth exploiting this extract clinically as an anti-hair loss agent, both for preventing ageing-associated hair shedding and as an adjuvant therapy for hair loss disorders. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Donor material and information - Leontopodium alpinum extract preparation - Hair follicle organ culture and treatment - Frozen hair sample processing - Immunofluorescence - Histochemistry - Alkaline phosphatase in situ activity - Hair cycle staging and scoring - Hair follicle elongation/Hair shaft production - Clinical study - RESULTS : Edelweiss extract prolongs anagen phase ex vivo - Edelweiss extract significantly stimulates hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation - Edelweiss extract stimulates dermal papilla inductivity ex vivo - Edelweiss extract significantly increases hair density in our study population - Edelweiss extract increases anagen/catagen-to-telogen ratio DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12783 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1roEyyeeGxdrMDR8pTlYOeFSjjusLGtvd/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38136 [article]

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Les authentiques cosmétiques / Jacques Sebag in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 46 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inEXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° 46 (07-08/2017) . - p. 128-132 Titre : Les authentiques cosmétiques Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jacques Sebag, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 128-132 Langues : Multilingue (mul) Catégories : Edelweiss et constituants Monoï et constituants Plantes -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Il s'agit là de plante dont la cosmétique représente le marché principal et bien souvent les filières sont créées pour cette application. Note de contenu : - L'edelweiss - Le monoï de Tahiti En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VghaxBn3DuQXHKwyFHi5gawBrH8aV0bb/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28947 [article]

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Edelweiss helps to protect against glycation-related skin ageing / François Paul in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021) . - p. 14-19 Titre : Edelweiss helps to protect against glycation-related skin ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : François Paul, Auteur ; Dominik Imfeld, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 14-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biomolécules actives Dermo-cosmétologie Détoxication métabolique d'une substance Edelweiss et constituants Glycation Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Glycation-induced, Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs) make a significant contribution to signs of skin ageing. In the pro-ageing skin care market, cosmetic antioxidants are often exploited for their ability to protect against free radicals and oxidative stress, but some of these ingredients also have potential to reduce or prevent the effects of glycation. DSM has conducted two new studies to explore the anti-glycation potential in a bioactive with proven antioxidant properties, ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS CB [INCI Leontopodium alpinum extract] an extract of organically grown and ethically sourced Edelweiss plants. The first study demonstrated the ingredient’s ability to down-regulate accumulation of AGEs by up to 55% in skin cells in vitro and to activate the detoxifying enzyme named Gloxalase-1 (Glo-1), which plays a key role in protecting keratinocyte proteins against oxidative damage during skin ageing, by 65%. The second study demonstrated that the bioactive inhibited Collagen Type IV glycation by 67%. Note de contenu : - Antioxidants in pro-ageing skincare - a burgeoning market - Glycation, AGEs, and their impact on skin - Could antioxidants counteract the effects of AGEs ? - Study 1 : in vitro assessment of Leontopodium alpinum extract's anti-glycation potential in human keratinocytes (NHEK) - In vitro cell cultures - Anti-glycation potential - 1) Intracellular accumulation of CMLs - 2) Filaggrin expression - 3) Glyoxalase 1 activity - Study 2 : Assessment of the modulating effect of Leontopodium alpinum extract on Collagen Type IV Glycation - Conclusions : Study 1 - Study 2 - Overall conclusion - About the active En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12wIJFWuR47Tzcl-BlI66HB-t0Kfx-F3p/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36328 [article]

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Sustainable bioactive for pro-ageing skin care / Brian C. Grady in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 2 (02/2023)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 2 (02/2023) . - p. 42-44 Titre : Sustainable bioactive for pro-ageing skin care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brian C. Grady, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 42-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biomolécules actives Dermo-cosmétologie Edelweiss et constituants Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We developed an anti-ageing active ingredient made from an Edelweiss ( Aomori Hiba ) extract. This flower is cultivated between 1000 metres and 1500 metres altitude in the Swiss Alps, ensuring a maximum content of active compounds such as leontopodic acid and flavonoids (luteolin and apigenin derivatives). Alpaflor® Edelweiss CB, hereafter named Leontopodium alpinum 'Helvetia' extract, is DSM's natural, organic preservative-free bioactive. It is cultivated between 1000 metres and 1500 metres altitude in the Swiss Alps, ensuring a maximum content of active compounds such as leontopodic acid and flavonoids (luteolin and apigenin derivatives). In these altitudes, the Edelweiss flower must contend with extremes of temperature, wind, and exposure to harsh environmental conditions, making it an expert in self-protection. It has demonstrated excellent resilience to UV exposure and staves off dehydration despite strong winds. These properties make it an good choice for natural skin care products. This bioactive supports the skin’s crucial protective barrier, enhancing its resistance to external stress factors and providing a very pleasant skin sensation. Note de contenu : - Glycation and how it affects the skin - Boosting collagen for younger-looking skin - Improving the skin barrier function - Facial colour mapping on glycation - The protection of stem cells - Protection from stress markers and free radicals - A sustainable production process - Relevant applications in skin care - Ethics and traceability En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kwwUs-8ZDXPheYh1pfqBC6uUZbhjyKtU/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38871 [article]

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