Development of a new cosmetic active for safe skin brightening / Montserrat Mangues in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (10-11-12/2009)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (10-11-12/2009) . - p. 373-378 Titre : Development of a new cosmetic active for safe skin brightening Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Montserrat Mangues, Auteur ; Cristina Carreno, Auteur ; Juan Cebriàn, Auteur ; Nùria Almiñana, Auteur Année de publication : 2010 Article en page(s) : p. 373-378 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Dépigmentation de la peau Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In Asia, lighter skin is a desirable feature considered to be a symbol of beauty and femininity, and the use of skin brighteners is widespread due to traditional beliefs. In Western countries, skin brightening agents are applied for the treatment of irregular pigmentation such as age spots and to produce a more even skin tone. Most current skin brightening agents show numerous adverse effects such as high irritant and sensitizing potential, melanocyte cytotoxicity and instability in formulations. Moreover, their lightening activity appears to be quite limited when it is tested in vivo on human volunteers. Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate (INCI name) is a novel skin brightener that has been tested for efficacy and safety with satisfactory results. The new active does not have any of the side effects that are normally associated with depigmenting agents, presents good efficacy in vitro and in vivo and is unique in that, unlike all other skin brighteners, it has a photoprotective effect. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10141 [article]

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A new decorin-like tetrapeptide for optimal organization of collagen fibers / Arturo Puig in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 10, N° 4 (10-11-12/2007)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 10, N° 4 (10-11-12/2007) . - p. 309-314 Titre : A new decorin-like tetrapeptide for optimal organization of collagen fibers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Arturo Puig, Auteur ; J. M. Garcia Anton, Auteur ; Montserrat Mangues, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 309-314 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Collagène  Décorine  Diamètre  Fibre  Organisation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Decorin interacts with collagen via its protein core and influences collagen fibrillogenesis, thus regulating excessive bundle-like aggregation of collagen. As skin ages, there is a lack of functional decorin which results in disrupted collagen fibers and a reduction in the tensile strength of the skin. Therefore, a substitute for decorin would make up for the non-functional decorin that is present as we age. Two tetrapeptide sequences were identified as the specific binding sites of decorin to collagen fibrils. These sequences were engineered in order to generate new tetrapeptides with improved affinity that would present a decorin-like activity. A focused library of several candidates was synthesized containing only tetrapeptides that mimicked the binding sequences of decorin. The candidates were screened with an in vitro collagen fibrillogenesis assay, and the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tripeptide-10 Citrulline achieved the best results. Like decorin, this synthetic tetrapeptide proved in in vitro tests to regulate collagen fibrillogenesis and influence the diameter of collagen fibers, making them thinner and more uniform. Tripeptide-10 citrulline is a new cosmetic active to specifically target collagen fiber organization. Skin collagen quality is addressed rather than skin collagen quantity. Tripeptide-10 citrulline ensures uniformity of fibril diameter and increases skin suppleness due to a better cohesion of collagen fibers. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10413 [article]

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