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Active ingredients used in cosmetics : safety survey
Active ingredients used in cosmetics : safety survey [texte imprimé] / Committee of Experts on Cosmetic Products, Auteur . - Strasbourg : Council of Europe, 2008 . - 440 p. : ill. ; 24 cm.ISBN : 978-92-871-6298-4 : 27 EAppendices - Index - Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)Catégories : Biomolécules activesCosmétiques -- ToxicologieIngrédients cosmétiquesQualité -- ContrôleSécurité des produits de consommation -- Normes -- Europe Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ingredients are used in cosmetics to give them specific properties. Certain ingredients, so called active ingredients, may produce pharmacological or toxic effects under certain conditions. Cosmetic products containing such ingredients may pose a health risk both because of their potential toxicity and because they may mask underlying serious diseases and consequently cause a dangerous delay in diagnosis and treatment. The objective of this study is to give safety information on certain active ingredients which give raise to toxicological concerns and for which restrictions of use in cosmetics should be considered. Monographs were prepared for 45 active ingredients for which no specific regulations exist including, inter alia, information about uses, properties, a risk evaluation of the use in cosmetic products considering as toxicological endpoints both systemic and local effects. Each monograph includes a bibliography, conclusions and recommendations.The study complements a series of three volumes containing monographs about the safety of certain natural ingredients used in cosmetics and will serve as a useful reference in the field, for health authorities, manufacturers and health professionals in particular. Note de contenu : - GENERAL BACKGROUND : 1. Aim of the safety survey - 2. General principles, procedures and criteria - SAFETY MONOGRAPHS ON SPECIFIC ACTIVE INGREDIENTS : 1. Aloe extracts with anthraquinones - 2. Aminophylline - 3. Arbutin 4. Arnica montana extracts of flower heads - 5. Azelaicacid 6. Balsam of Tolu - 7. Caffeine - 8. Camphor - 9. Chelidonium majus extract - 10. Domiphen bromide - 11. Econazole - 12. Elubiol - 13. Glycyrrhetinic acid - 14. Escin - 15. Esculin - 16. Eucalyptol - 17. Foeniculum vulgareessential oil - 18. Fucusvesiculosus - 19. Fumaricacid - 20. Ibuprofen - 21. Iodine organically bound - 22. Ketoconazole - 23. Kojicacid - 24. Melatonin - 25. Menthol - 26. Methyl nicotinate - 27. Methyl salicylate - 28. Miconazole - 29. Sodium perborate - 30. Persulfatesalts - 31. Podophyllum peltatum extract - 32. Pregnenolone/ Pregnenolone acetate - 33. Retinaldehyde - 34. Retinol - 35. Rutin - 36. Sassafras albidum essential oil - 37. Stevioside - 38. Symphytum offidnale extracts - 39. Theophylline - 40.Tioxolone - 41. Tocopherol/Tocopherol esters - 42. Tranexamic acid - 43. Tussilago farfara - 44. Urea - 45. Usnic acid/Usnic acid salts Appendix 1 - List of abbreviations Appendix 2 - List of authors Appendix 3 - Members of the Committee of Experts on Cosmetic Products Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21414 Assessment of the anti-hair loss potential of Camellia japonica fruit shell extract in vitro
Assessment of the anti-hair loss potential of Camellia japonica fruit shell extract in vitro [texte imprimé] / Jiyoung You, Auteur ; Jieun Woo, Auteur ; Kyung-Baeg Roh, Auteur ; Dehun Ryu, Auteur ; Youngsu Jang, Auteur ; Eunae Cho, Auteur ; Deokhoon Park, Auteur ; Eunsun Jung, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 155-165.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 155-165Catégories : AlopécieCamélia du JaponCamellia japonica, communément appelé camélia, est une espèce d'arbustes. C. japonica aurait été rapporté du Japon par les marchands portugais au XVIe siècle, puis à plusieurs reprises par les Britanniques en provenance de Chine, à la fin du XVIIIe siècle. Des tests in vitro laissent penser que Camellia japonica pourrait avoir des vertus protectrices de la peau (encore non comprise en 2019) contre la pollution de l'air. (Wikipedia)Cheveux -- CroissanceCheveux -- Soins et hygièneCosmétiquesDihydrotestostéroneExtraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)Produits capillairesStress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Hair loss is caused by various factors. Impacts of these factors are often overlapped and intensified. Currently, mitigation of hair loss is being studied by proliferating dermal papilla cells (DPCs) and inhibiting deleterious factors such as dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and oxidative stress on hair growth. Camellia japonica (C. japonica) fruit shell is a discarded part. Its biological activity remains to be elucidated. In this study, we investigated the capacity of C. japonica fruit shell extract (CJFSE) for hair loss mitigation. - Methods : MTT assay, spheroid culture and quantitative RT-PCR were performed to observe the proliferative effect of CJFSE on hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs). Effects of CJFSE on DHT-induced hair loss were confirmed by Dkk-1 ELISA, β-galactosidase (β-gal) and 5α-reductase activity assay. In addition, effects of CJFSE on oxidative stress were confirmed through DPPH and ROS production assays. - Results : CJFSE increased the proliferation and spheroid size of HFDPCs. Expression levels of VEGF-A, Wnt-1, c-Myc and Cyclin D1 were upregulated by CJFSE. CJFSE also suppressed 5α-reductase activity and DHT-induced decrease in cell proliferation, Dkk-1 secretion and β-gal activity. Moreover, CJFSE showed DPPH scavenging activity and ameliorated hydrogen peroxide-induced ROS production and β-gal activity. Finally, gallic acid and protocatechuic acid were observed in CJFSE through HPLC analysis. - Conclusion : CJFSE has the potential to alleviate hair loss by promoting hair cell growth and suppressing effects of DHT and oxidative stress on hair Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cell culture - Preparation of Camellia japonica fruit shell extract - Cell viability assay - Cell proliferation assay - Spheroid culture of HFDPCs - Quantitative real-time PCR - Western blot analysis - DHT-induced senescence - 5α-reductase activity assay - Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) - SA-β- gal staining - DPPH radical scavenging assay - H2O2-induced senescence - Analysis of ROS production - Phenolic compound analysis using HPLC - Statistical - RESULTS : CJFSE increases the proliferation of HFDPCs - CJFSE augments spheroid size - CJFSE induces the expression of VEGF and genes related to HFDPCs proliferation - CJFSE inhibits the effect of DHT on HFDPCs - CJFSE inhibits the effect of oxidative stress on HFDPCs - Gallic acid and protocatechuic acid are identified as phenolic compounds in CJFSE - Table 1 : Gene primers sequences for real-time PCR (5′ to 3′) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12827 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J3f1fwY-N2SQ3MiJgM5lDQqCExw-7ftd/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39166 Biotechnologies opening new beauty possibilities
Biotechnologies opening new beauty possibilities [texte imprimé] / Erwan Le Gelebart, Auteur ; Maud Merlini, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 63-65.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 63-65Catégories : Algues marinesAntiradicalaireBiotechnologie marineExtraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)Industrie cosmétique -- Aspect de l'environnementIngrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The 'all-natural' trend continues to gain a lot of traction in the global cosmetics market. Ever more consumers demand quality with naturality but also sustainable cosmetic products. In future, these high expectations could merge with new expectations of efficiency, opening the way to biotechnological, sustainable and ultra-efficient solutions that meet the expectations of consumers looking for more advanced solutions. One of the key pillars of sustainability is the environmental aspect with respect and protection of the planet and with the critical goal of biodiversity preservation. In fact, the impact on biodiversity is the third most common information expected by consumers to be displayed on packaging. This for good reasons. Biodiversity is a key indicator of the health of an ecosystem and it is declining fast, mainly due to human activity. Biodiversity is not only an ecological and social responsibility topic but also a business necessity. For ingredient suppliers, biodiversity should be taken into account in the ingredient design process, especially when it tomes to sourcing for the manufacture of natural ingredients. Note de contenu : - Limiting the impact on biodiversity - Celtosome development process - Microalgae ingredients - Opening new possibilities for beauty - Fig. 1 : Schema of Celtosome development process - Fig. 2 : Schema of Celebrity development process - Fig. 3 : Comparison between the immediate efficacy on cellular and mitochondrial free radicals of Ephemer and of sporophyte extract of Undaria pinnatifida Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38983 Characterization and authenticity testing of vegetable oils for cosmetics
Characterization and authenticity testing of vegetable oils for cosmetics [texte imprimé] / Yasmin Raupp, Auteur ; Janika Reis, Auteur ; Katja Baisch, Auteur ; Bernhard Fellenberg, Auteur ; Benjamin Ende, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 26-32.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 149, N° 4 (04/2023) . - p. 26-32Catégories : Acides grasCaractérisationChimie analytiqueHuiles et graisses végétalesIngrédients cosmétiquesPeau -- Soins et hygiènePhytostérolsSpécificationsVitamine E Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Vegetable oils are frequently used as valuable raw materials in a wide variety of cosmetic products. The oils are said to have positive effects on the skin surface and to strengthen the skin barrier. Furthermore, they counteract excessive moisture loss from the skin. The decisive factor in the use of vegetable oils as cosmetic raw materials is their purity and impeccable quality. Specific quality and testing parameters are used to ensure quality and safety. This also serves to comply with the requirements of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. Furthermore, a reproducible manufacturing process is crucial in order to achieve consistent qualities. As part of a project, a total of 18 vegetable cosmetic oils (15 different oils) were specified more precisely with regard to the fatty acid spectrum, tocopherol distribution and phytosterols. Sometimes “exotic” oils or oils that are rarely used (e.g. pomegranate seed oil) are also included. The data provide a comprehensive overview of authenticity and the ingredients of the vegetable oils studied. It must be taken into account that these analytical values may vary depending on provenance, cultivation, production, processing, etc.. Likewise, usual analytical measurement uncertainties must be taken into account when interpreting these data. Note de contenu : - Analytical methods and examination procedures - Origin of vegetable oils - Test parameters and results of measurement - Table 1 : Country of origin, quality and INCI of the examined vegetable oils- - Table 2 : Fatty acid distribution - Table 3 : Tocopherols - Table 4 : Sterols Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39255 Development of SEDDS formulation containing caffeine for dermal delivery
Development of SEDDS formulation containing caffeine for dermal delivery [texte imprimé] / Igor de Andrade Assunção de Almeida, Auteur ; Thiago da Silva Honório, Auteur ; Flavia Almada do Carmo, Auteur ; Zaida Maria Faria de Freitas, Auteur ; Lucio Mendes Cabral, Auteur ; LetÃcia Coli Louvisse de Abreu, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 255-265.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 255-265Catégories : AmincissantsCaféineCaractérisationCellules -- Cultures et milieux de cultureCelluliteDermo-cosmétologieEmulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologieEssais (technologie)Formulation (Génie chimique)Médicaments -- Administration par voie cutanéeNanoémulsionsPeau -- Soins et hygiènePerméationPotentiel zetaSolubilitéTaille des gouttelettes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The objective of this work was to develop a self-emulsifying drug delivery system (SEDDS) containing caffeine for the treatment of cellulite. - Methods : SEDDS were prepared using the solution method. 0.5% (w/v) caffeine was added to the previously selected excipients. The system was characterized by droplet size, zeta potential, emulsification time and long-term stability. In vitro release and skin permeation were investigated using Franz-type diffusion cells. The cytotoxicity was evaluated on normal human keratinocytes. - Results : Caffeine SEDDS were thermodynamically stable, with a zeta potential less than - 22 mV and droplet size around 30 nm, and were long-term stable. The permeation study showed that the formulation promoted caffeine accumulation in the skin layers, suggesting an increase in local circulation. Cytotoxicity studies on HaCaT cells were not conclusive as the surfactant used indicated false-positive results due to its high molar mass. - Conclusion : It was possible to obtain a stable SEDDS that could cause an increase in blood flow in the applied area, resulting in cellulite reduction. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparations of self-emulsifying drug delivery systems - Characterization of self-emulsifying drug delivery systems - Measurement of droplet size, polydispersity index and zeta potential - Cytotoxicity evaluation in HaCaT cells - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Preparation of SEDDS caffeine formulations - Characterization of SEDDS - Evaluation of the permeation profile - Formulation safety - Table 1 : SEDDS formulations - Table 2 : Nanoemulsion classification system - Table 3 : Solubility tests - Table 4 : Droplet size results - Table 5 : Initial zeta potential and after 6 months - Table 6 : Stability study T0 and T6 months DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12841 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-ASq7IknoSSPuChlSeOqGI4aCCpdvrOi/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39175 L'émulsion : un standard des galéniques
L'émulsion : un standard des galéniques [texte imprimé] / Stéphanie Reymond, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 42-49.Langues : Multilingue (mul)in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° 80 (03-04/2023) . - p. 42-49Catégories : Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologieFormulation (Génie chimique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Crèmes, gels, laits, fonds de teint, dentifrices... Tous sont des émulsions. Bien que leurs propriétés diffèrent, leur châssis formulatoire a toujours obéi à cette règle : une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse, stabilisées par un émulsionnant. Un classique aujourd'hui bousculé. Note de contenu : - Le sans émulsionnant a le vent en poupe - La phase aqueuse : la variable sensorielle - La phase grasse vers plus de naturel - L'émulsionnant, un pilier à réinventer - Intégrer des particules : un travail de précision - Fig. 1 : Emulsions simples H/E et E/H - Fig. 2 : Emulsions multiples - Fig. 3 : Structure bi-gel - Fig. 4 : Polymérisations en émulsion inverse - Fig. 5 : Emulsions de Pickering - Fig. 6 : Structure émulsionnant H-NET Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39148 Enhanced piroctone olamine retention from shampoo for superior anti-dandruff efficacy
Enhanced piroctone olamine retention from shampoo for superior anti-dandruff efficacy [texte imprimé] / Eric S. Johnson, Auteur ; Debora W. Chang, Auteur ; James R. Schwartz, Auteur ; Ulrike Blume-Peytavi, Auteur ; James P. Henry, Auteur ; Tamara L. Caterino, Auteur ; Allison L. Talley, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 236-245.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 236-245Catégories : AntifongiquesAntipelliculairesCheveux -- Soins et hygièneCosmétiquesCuir cheveluDermatite sébhorrhéiqueDesquamationEtudes cliniquesPellicules (dermatologie)Piroctone olamineProduits capillairesshampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Dandruff is a pervasive chronic condition which negatively impacts quality of life. Effective treatment requires efficient delivery of scalp benefit agents that control commensal scalp Malassezia levels. Delivery of benefit agents from shampoos requires balancing many technical parameters to achieve the desired outcome without sacrificing secondary parameters, such as cosmetic attributes. - Objectives : To develop formulation technologies that increase the shampoo delivery efficiency of the scalp benefit agent piroctone olamine (PO). Increased delivery should result in increased anti-dandruff efficacy. - Methods : Micellar Stability and Association parameters were quantified via dynamic surface tension and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) diffusion parameters, respectively. PO delivery has been assessed in vivo both on the scalp surface and follicular infindibula using extraction procedures and analytical analysis. Clinical anti-dandruff efficacy was assessed for an advanced delivery technology prototype in comparison to standard delivery technology. - Results : Shampoo prototypes have been developed that increase the delivery efficiency of PO. Both surfactant and polymer coacervate-based approaches have been developed. Decreased micellar stability results in weaker association between PO and micelles, resulting in more efficient PO retention on the scalp surface and delivery to the infundibula. Increased charge density of cationic polymers optimizes coacervation enabling improved PO delivery as well. Increased PO delivery has been shown clinically to result in higher anti-dandruff efficacy as measured by both visible flakes and underlying biomarkers. - Conclusion : Increased efficiency PO delivery shampoos have been developed by optimization of both surfactant and coacervate parameters. The increased deposition efficiency results in significantly more products with significantly greater anti-dandruff efficacy. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Shampoo products and compositions evaluated - Measurement of Micellar Stability parameter (θ) - Measurement of Micellar Association parameter (Ds/Da) - Measurement of scalp surface retention of piroctone olamine in vivo - Measurement of infundibular delivery of piroctone olamine in vivo - Clinical efficacy study design - Assessment of flaking severity - Assessment of histamine and ratio of IL1ra/IL-1α from scalp surface - Test products - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Micellar Stability parameter evaluations - Micellar Association parameter (Ds/Da) - Scalp surface retention of piroctone olamine in vivo - Infundibular delivery of piroctone olamine in vivo - Evaluation of Anti-Dandruff clinical efficacy - Table 1 : Summary of shampoo compositions evaluated - Table 2 : Summary of Micellar Stability parameter and Micellar Association parameter data - Table 3 : Summary of Micellar Association data and PO retention - Table 4 : Summary of piroctone olamine scalp retention data - Table 5 : Summary of anti-dandruff clinical evaluation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12835 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15x6UeCPskFUzXhclO36lFCI1b11GE8SC/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39173 Etats-Unis d'Amérique - Une nouvelle ère pour les cosmétiques
Etats-Unis d'Amérique - Une nouvelle ère pour les cosmétiques [texte imprimé] / Catherine Apolinario, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 32-35.Langues : Multilingue (mul)in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° 80 (03-04/2023) . - p. 32-35Catégories : Chimie industrielle -- Législation -- Etats-UnisConsommateurs -- ProtectionCosmétovigilanceIndustrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Etats-UnisRèglements de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Pour la première fois depuis 1939, la réglementation cosmétique américaine a été modifiée avec pour objectif de renforcer la sécurité des consommateurs. Afin d'anticiper ces prochaines exigences réglementaires, Cosmed détaille les principaux changements qui vont impacter l'export de produits cosmétiques dans ce pays. Note de contenu : - Notion de personne responsable - Sécurité des produits cosmétiques - Enregistrement des établissements et notification des produits cosmétiques - Cosmétovigilance - Substances réglementées - Retrait et rappel des produits - Spécificités par état Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39147 L'éternelle quête de la longévité cutanée
L'éternelle quête de la longévité cutanée [texte imprimé] / Camille Despériez, Auteur ; Hélène Muchico, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 88-91.Langues : Multilingue (mul)in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° 80 (03-04/2023) . - p. 88-91Catégories : AntiâgeBiologie cutanéeBiomolécules activesCosmétiquesGinko biloba et constituantsIngrédients cosmétiquesPeau -- Soins et hygièneVieillissement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Parmi les processus universels et inéluctables, le vieillissement de la peau témoigne explicitement de la transformation progressive du corps. La communauté scientifique tente de déjouer cette logique en développant des cosmétiques qui influencent positivement le devenir cutané. La sélection de 3 actifs naturels de haute performance cible stratégiquement les mécanismes impliqués dans un processus central du vieillissement des tissus : la sénescence cellulaire. Note de contenu : - Le paradigme de la destinée cutanée - La sénescence cellulaire à l'échelle de la peau - Une stratégie avancée pour réactiver la jeunesse de la peau - Fig. 1 : Implication des fibroblastes sénescents immunoévasifs dans l'accélération du vieillissement de la peau - Fig. 2 : Stratégie "Timeless Beauty" pour conserver la jeunesse de la peau Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39150 Ethylated analogue of Zingerone : A new and eco-respectful preservative in cosmetics
Ethylated analogue of Zingerone : A new and eco-respectful preservative in cosmetics [texte imprimé] / Patricio Guerreiro, Auteur ; Sylvie Cupferman, Auteur ; Jacques Lharidon, Auteur ; Roger Rozot, Auteur ; Maria Dalko-Csiba, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 187-197.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 187-197Catégories : BiodégradationComposés organiques -- SynthèseConservateurs (chimie)CosmétiquesCurcuma et constituantsEco-conceptionExtraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)Formulation (Génie chimique)Gingembre et constituantsIngrédients cosmétiquesMatériaux bio-inspirésMicrobiologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : This article describes the eco-design of a new preservative in cosmetics based on bio-inspiration of natural extracts from traditional medicines. In order to reach the multiple specification targets, various structures have been synthesized and evaluated to select the one demonstrating broad antimicrobial spectrum with favorable environmental profile and application potential to a wide variety of formulas. - Methods : In order to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of the synthesized structures, the method of the challenge test consisting in an artificial contamination of the sample with collection microbial strains and evaluation of the number of revivable microorganisms was used to select the most promising candidate. Validation of its antimicrobial potential was later confirmed on Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria, yeast and mold with measurement of its Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) in comparison with known preservatives. Environmental impact assessment of the selected candidate was achieved with the help of ready biodegradability and aquatic ecotoxicity tests performed according to appropriate Organization tes a strfor Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) and European Union (EU) guidelinesy. - Results : Bio-inspired from turmeric and ginger extracts, an ethylated analog of Zingerone (EZ) with the chemical name 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one demonstrates the strongest activity on Escherichia coli, Enterococcus faecalis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Candida albicans. Moreover, EZ shows a solubility in water two times higher than that of Zingerone thus increasing its interest as a potential preservative. Finally, its assessment of ready biodegradability and aquatic ecotoxicity in OECD-EU tests with a favorable environmental profile confirms its unique interest and fully justifies its use in cosmetic formulas as an eco-respectful preservative. - Conclusion : Bio-inspiration based on technologies without noteworthy side effects but also on eco-design, particularly through the use of measures of potential environmental impact very upstream of a development, are two fundamental elements for the launching of new eco-friendly cosmetic ingredients. This approach has thus validated the strong potential of EZ as a preservative of eco-respectful formulas. The selection of EZ is also a very good example of the achievement of two key objectives targeted by cosmetic companies for the development of a novel active ingredient : environmental performance and technical performance. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Antimicrobial tests - ENVIRONNEMENTAL tests - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Bio-inspiration : From natural extracts of turmeric and ginger to an eco-designed ethylated analogue of Zingerone (EZ) with antimicrobial activity - Environnemental favourable profile of ethylated analogue of Zingerone (EZ) Strong potential of an ethylated analogue of Zingerone (EZ), as a preservative with no bacterial cross-resistance to antimicrobials - Table 1 & 2 : Culture conditions - Table 3 : Antimicrobial activity of five molecules close to Zingerone structure on five strains - Table 4 : Results of MIC measurements of EZ on five strains in comparison with preservatives approved by organic standards - Table 5 : Challenge test results of EZ formulated in a simplex formula (carbopol gel), pH = 5.5 DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12830 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xUR5XyuizpfF-kNXwC5ABRBa0UBSl9FL/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39169 - Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition [texte imprimé] / Leslie Labarre, Auteur ; Ophélie Squillace, Auteur ; Yu Liu, Auteur ; Peter J. Fryer, Auteur ; Preeti Kaur, Auteur ; Shane Whitaker, Auteur ; Jennifer M. Marsh, Auteur ; Zhenyu J. Zhang, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 224-235.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 224-235
Catégories : Analyse spectraleCheveux -- analyseCheveux -- Soins et hygièneCosmétiquesEnergie de surfaceFormulation (Génie chimique)Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits. - Methods : Untreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS). Hair surface interactions against four different chemical functional groups, namely methyl (-CH3), acid (-COOH), amine (-NH2) and hydroxyl (-OH), were quantified in both ambient and aqueous environment using Chemical Force Microscopy, a method based on atomic force microscopy (AFM). - Results : Surface adhesion on hair in ambient is dominated by capillary force that is determined by both the wettability of hair fibre (hydrophobic vs. hydrophilic), presence of any deposits and the chemical functionality of the AFM cantilever. Capillary force is diminished and replaced by electrostatic interaction when polar groups are present on both hair and AFM cantilever. A distinctively different force, hydrophobic interaction, plays a major role when virgin hair and hydrophobic functionalized AFM cantilever make contact in water. - Conclusion : Results acquired by AFM cantilevers of different functional groups show that hydrophobic interaction is a key driver for deposition on virgin hair, whilst electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair. Interfacial conformation of chassis components upon deposition is determined by the hair surface properties. Our study highlights the possibility of a range of polar groups, not necessarily negatively charged, on the damaged hair. Unlike conventional surface chemical analysis method, it is possible to quantitatively evaluate the interfacial conformation of deposited surface actives on hair, which identifies the target moieties for conditioning products on different types of hair. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Atomic force microscopy - AFM cantilever functionalization - Surface analysis - Surface energy - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION :Surface deposition analysis - Hair surface free energy - Surface morphology of hair fibres - Hair surface adhesion against methyl (-CH3) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against carboxylic acid (-COOH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against hydroxyl (-OH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against amine (-NH2) functional group - Table 1 : Silicone and cationic surfactant deposition in μg g-1 as a function of hair type (virgin hair, platinum-bleached hair) and treatment (chassis alone, chassis/TAS) in ambient air. Three hair fibre samples were collected from three different hair tresses, resulting in a total of nine measurements for each type - Table 2 : Surface energy data obtained from contact angles on virgin hair and platinum-bleached hair using hexadecane for the non-polar liquid and water for the polar liquid DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12834 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qUQR6DU_sOnv9W97138uGnXS8zH2hwWp/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39172 Investigate the hygroscopic potential of apiogalacturonans for a plumped skin
Investigate the hygroscopic potential of apiogalacturonans for a plumped skin [texte imprimé] / Mélanie Coirier, Auteur ; Laurie Verzeaux, Auteur ; Hélène Muchico, Auteur ; Elodie Aymard, Auteur ; Brigitte Closs, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 14-18.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 149, N° 4 (04/2023) . - p. 14-18Catégories : ApiogalacturonanesBiomolécules activesCosmétiquesDermo-cosmétologieDéshydratationExtraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)Peau -- Soins et hygièneProduits hydratantsRepulpant (cosmétique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Whether dry, mixed or oily, every skin can be subjected to dehydration, characterized by a lack of water. Tightness, lack of suppleness, loss of volume, lines and wrinkles then appear. To specifically meet the needs of dehydrated skin, SILAB decided to develop APIOSKIN®, a natural plumping active ingredient with outstanding hydrating properties, purified in Apiogalacturonans (APG) from the water lentil (Spirodela polyrhiza). Its smoothing and radiance-boosting effects beautify dehydrated skin. Note de contenu : - APIOGALACTURONANS, UNIQUE MOLECULES : rare and original pectins - A unique hygroscopic potential - A secure supply and unique process for a qualitative raw material - THE IDEAL RESPONSE TO DEHYDRATED SKIN : Activation of the biological levers of cutaneous hydration - The NMF - Cosmetic benefits beautifying dehydrated skin : Cutaneous hydration increased - Plumping effect for a smoothed and radiant skin Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39253 - Iontophoresis in dermal delivery : A review of applications in dermato-cosmetic and aesthetic sciences [texte imprimé] / Aikaterini Liatsopoulou, Auteur ; Athanasia Varvaresou, Auteur ; Fotini Mellou, Auteur ; Evangelia Protopapa, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 117-132.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 117-132
Catégories : AcnéL'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique...AlopécieBarrière cutanéeCheveux -- Soins et hygièneCicatricesCosmétiquesDermo-cosmétologieEpilageIonophorèsePénétration cutanéePhotovieillissement (dermatologie)Pigmentation, Troubles de laSoins de beautéStress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Iontophoresis is defined as the use of electric current to drive molecules across cell membranes through an electrolyte solution. In therapeutic context, it is used to facilitate the administration of bioactive substances, either systemically or locally. The technique presents various advantages and that is why it has been successfully used by a plethora of medical sciences. The constantly developing field of dermato-cosmetic science has also taken advantage of the possibilities offered by iontophoresis, aiming to enhance the delivery of the applied active ingredients and, thus, induce the desired cosmetic effects. - Methods : The available literature was examined for evidence-based reports of safe and successful iontophoresis of pharmaceutical and cosmetic substances, in order to explore different iontophoretic applications in the field of dermato-cosmetic and dermato-aesthetic sciences. - Conclusion : Iontophoresis can be safely and successfully used in the treatment of ageing, photoageing, hyperpigmentation, oxidative stress, hair loss, hair removal, acne, acne sequelae and cellulite, providing many possibilities for enhanced treatment results. Note de contenu : - MECHANISM OF ACTION OF IONTOPHORESIS - IONTOPHORESIS IN HEALTH SCIENCES - IONTOPHORESIS IN DERMATO-COSMETIC AND AESTHETIC SCIENCES : Dermal delivery - Devices - Active agents - Dermato-cosmetic treatments - Photoageing - Hyperpigmentation - Oxidative stress - Hair loss - Hair removal - Acne and acne scars - Cellulite - EFFICACY AND SAFETY ISSUES - COMBINATION OF IONTOPHORESIS WITH OTHER PERMEATION STRATEGIES DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12824 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jQlECOkdYkFVX9BEO5WWLaJWgJmERGCQ/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39164 - Jade material in vitro and in vivo : A study on the anti-inflammatory and repair efficacy of jade material on the skin [texte imprimé] / Xiaohong Shu, Auteur ; Ling Wang, Auteur ; Ruina Qu, Auteur ; Li Li, Auteur ; Xi Wang, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 177-186.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 177-186
Catégories : Anti-inflammatoiresDermo-cosmétologieJade et constituantsPeau -- InflammationPeau -- PhysiologiePeau -- Soins et hygièneTests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The biological safety of natural jade materials and assembled jade-activated materials on cells and their anti-inflammatory and damage repair functions, as well as the repair function on sensitive skin, were studied utilizing in vitro cell biology and in vivo. - Methods : Human skin fibroblasts were used as model cells to conduct cytotoxicity experiments in vitro, and the effects on the expression of inflammatory factors and growth factor-related genes in fibroblasts were explored. The gene expression values of inflammatory factors IL-1, IL-6, TNF-α and cytokines epidermal growth factors, fibroblast growth factors and COL1A1 in fibroblasts were measured by polymerase chain reaction test. Thirty women with sensitive skin were selected to apply a mask containing jade extract three times a week. After two weeks, non-invasive measures related to skin sensitivity were tested. - Results : We confirmed the presence of anti-inflammatory effects in both jade materials, with the effects of the assembled activated jade material being superior to that of the natural jade material. Jade extracts significantly increased the gene expressions of EGF, FGF and COL1A1 in HDF. The results of the in vivo study showed that the mask containing jade extract could significantly increase the skin hydration and decrease the rate of transepidermal water loss and skin lactic acid sting test scores after two weeks of use. Subjective evaluations confirmed improvements in skin dryness, smoothness and fineness. No new sensitization occurred in subjects, and the product was non-irritating. No adverse skin reactions were observed during the test. - Conclusions : The jade materials were able to downregulate the expression of inflammatory factor genes, up-regulate the expression of growth factor genes, and improve the anti-inflammation and repair ability of skin. Furthermore, the test results of participants with sensitive skin after using the mask containing jade extract showed that the mask has repairing ability. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vitro experiments - Effects of jade materials on gene expression of inflammatory cytokines and growth factors in HDF - Statistical analysis - In vivo experiment - RESULTS : In vitro experimental results and discussion - Anti-inflammatory effects of jade materials - Reparative effects of jade materials on skin wounds - In vivo experimental results - DISCUSSION : In vitro experimental discussion - Table 1 : Primer sequences for qPCR - Table 2 : Lactic acid sting test scores of the skin at different time points DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12829 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KvuNE6Cejjs0x77KaXASVgHYHgPNIs55/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39168 Leung's encyclopedia of common natural ingredients used in food, drugs and cosmetics
Leung's encyclopedia of common natural ingredients used in food, drugs and cosmetics [texte imprimé] / Ikhlas A. Khan, Auteur ; Ehab A. Abourashed, Auteur . - 3e edition . - Hoboken (New Jersey, USA) : John Wiley & Sons, 2010 . - XXIX-810 p. : ill. ; 26 cm.ISBN : 978-0-471-46743-4 : 127 EIndex - Glossaire - Bibliogr.Langues : Américain (ame)Catégories : AlimentsCosmétiquesPharmacognosieLa pharmacognosie (du grec pharmakon drogue, venin, poison et gnosis connaissance) est la science appliquée traitant des matières premières et des substances à potentialité médicamenteuse dÂ’origine biologique. Ces substances dÂ’origine biologique sont issues de végétaux, d'animaux ou encore de fermentation à partir de micro-organismes. La drogue est la partie de l'organe, lÂ’organe entier ou encore la totalité dÂ’une plante, dÂ’un champignon (drogue végétale) ou dÂ’un animal (drogue animale).PhytocosmétiquesProduits naturels -- Encyclopédies Index. décimale : 581.63 Plantes comestibles et médicinales Résumé : The new third edition of Leung's Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients arrives in the wake of the huge wave of interest in dietary supplements and herbal medicine resulting from both trends in health and the Dietary Supplement and Health Education Act of 1994 (DSHEA). This fully updated and revised text includes the most recent research findings on a wide variety of ingredients, giving readers a single source for understanding and working with natural ingredients. Note de contenu : - Natural ingredients - Indian traditional medicine - Chinese cosmetic ingredients - Appendix A-General references - Appendix B-Glossary/abbreviations - Appendix C-Botanical terms - Appendix D-Morphological description of plant organs Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22323 Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare
Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare [texte imprimé] / Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Anthony V. Rawlings, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 133-154.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 133-154Catégories : CornéosomesCouche cornéeDermo-cosmétologieFacteur naturel d'hydratationFilaggrineLipidesMatériaux -- Propriétés barrièresPeau -- Soins et hygiènePeptidasesProduits hydratantsSécheresse cutanéeUne xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research. We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation. The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1. Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration. Note de contenu : - MATURATION PATHWAYS AND GRADIENTS IN THE STRATUM CORNEUM : Water - Corneodesmosome and plasminogen system - Filaggrin and NMF - Barrier lipids - ARE THERE DIFFERENT TYPES OF DRY SKIN ? : Stratum compactum – Disjunctum ratio model of dry skin - The dry skin cycle - Table 1 : Comparison of proteins between SC samples from sun-exposed cheek and sun-protected post-auricular (PA) area in Caucasian women DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12832 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gyGbFFX05QTuLAEF3ncihyYctFOG6IOf/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39165 Naturals : why chemical composition matters
Naturals : why chemical composition matters [texte imprimé] / Antonia Kostic, Auteur ; Giorgio Dell'Acqua, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 39-41.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 39-41Catégories : Composition chimiqueCosmétiquesExtraits (pharmacie) -- EfficacitéExtraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)Ingrédients cosmétiquesSécurité des produits de consommation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : When we taste a naturally-derived product such as coffee or olive oil, we may have a different sensorial experience based on the productÂ’s origin and its processing. Malbec wine produced in Argentina may taste similar to Malbec wine produced in California but not identical. Olive oil from Greece does not have the same sensorial profile as that from Tuscany. They are just different and, as consumers, we can choose the one that fits the experience we want. Those differences are linked to genetic and environmental components as well as processing practices. Similarly, naturallyderived cosmetic ingredients from the same plant can have different characteristics and chemical properties depending on the various geographical locations of the plant as well as the processing of the extract. Those properties can eventually affect the safety and efficacy of the finished cosmetic product and also in this case the formulator can choose the one that is looking to fit its formulation design. It is important to know that not only colour and smell could be affected (a prerequisite for selection) but also chemical composition. Since a specific active or undesired substance can be in a higher or lower concentration depending on the plantÂ’s origin and processing, the ingredient composition can affect the safety and efficacy of the finished product. Note de contenu : - The influence of plant geographical location - environment - The influence of plant geographical location - genotype Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38979 Novel cosmetic ingredient for oral hygiene
Novel cosmetic ingredient for oral hygiene [texte imprimé] / Laura Meunier, Auteur ; Florian Genrich, Auteur ; Steffen Nordzieke, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 78-80.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 78-80Catégories : AntimicrobiensBouche -- Soins et hygièneConcentration minimale inhibitrice (antimicrobiens)En microbiologie, la concentration minimale inhibitrice (CMI) est la plus faible concentration d'un produit chimique, généralement un médicament, qui empêche la croissance visible d'une ou de plusieurs bactéries. La CMI dépend du micro-organisme considéré, de l'être humain affecté (in vivo uniquement) et de l'antibiotique lui-même. La CMI est déterminée en préparant des solutions du produit chimique in vitro à diverses concentrations croissantes, en incubant les solutions avec des groupes séparés de bactéries en culture et en mesurant les résultats en utilisant une méthode de dilution standardisée (agar ou microdilution). Les résultats se classent ensuite comme "sensible", "intermédiaire" ou "résistant"à un antimicrobien particulier en utilisant un point d'arrêt. Les points d'arrêt sont des valeurs convenues, publiées dans les directives d'un organisme de référence, comme le US Clinical and Laboratory Standards Institute (CLSI), la British Society for Antimicrobial Chemotherapy (BSAC) ou le Comité européen sur les tests de sensibilité aux antimicrobiens (EUCAST). On a pu constater des écarts importants au niveau des points d'arrêt de divers pays européens au fil des ans, et entre ceux de l'EUCAST et du CLSI. Alors que la CMI est la concentration la plus faible d'un agent antibactérien nécessaire pour inhiber la croissance visible, la concentration bactéricide minimale (CBM) est la concentration minimale d'un agent antibactérien qui entraîne la mort bactérienne. Plus la CMI est proche de la CBM, plus le composé est bactéricide. La première étape de la découverte d'un médicament est souvent le dépistage d'un médicament candidat de banque de données pour les CMI contre les bactéries d'intérêt. En tant que tels, les CMI sont généralement le point de départ pour de plus grandes évaluations précliniques de nouveaux agents antimicrobiens. Le but de la mesure de la concentration minimale inhibitrice est de s'assurer que les antibiotiques sont choisis efficacement pour augmenter le succès du traitement. (Wikipedia)Formulation (Génie chimique)Ingrédients cosmétiquesTriclosan -- Produits de remplacement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Due to the pandemic and the increased need for consumers to stay and feel clean, the personal hygiene sector has experienced a real upswing in 2020. While the interim focus was mainly on hand hygiene, personal hygiene today has branched into a broad variety of applications ranging from scalp to toe including oral care. In this article, we present new results on a modern cosmetic ingredient for oral hygiene that answers the quest for safe environmentally friendly antimicrobial solutions. For decades, triclosan has been a preferred ingredient in toothpaste and mouthwash thanks to its versatile hygiene benefits. In the last couple of years, the market has been gradually forced to move away from such conventional organohalogen technologies. This process has not only been accelerated by the US ban on triclosan from antibacterial soaps, the global overuse of ingredients Eike triclosan and triclocarban and their environmental impact triggered more and more Legal restrictions and consequently, cosmetic brands have phased these ingredients out of formulations to serve consumers with safer and more eco-friendly solutions. SymGuard® CD, [INCI : phenylpropanol, o-cymen-5-ol, decytene glycol] - hereafter described as the cosmetic hygiene ingredient - is one of the modem options for personal hygiene with key benefits in oral care 5.6 Note de contenu : - Antimicrobial activity relevant to oral hygiene - Streptococcus mutans single species results (in vitro) - Oral biofilm model (ex vivo microbiome) - Oral odour evaluation (in vivo) - Table 1 : Minimum inhibitory concentratons for Symguard CD - Table 2 : Mouthwash formulations Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38986 Novel natural fine wax powders for boosting SPF
Novel natural fine wax powders for boosting SPF [texte imprimé] / Diana Smith, Auteur ; Ranell Santa Cruz, Auteur ; Arvind Shah, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 43-46.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 43-46Catégories : Cires végétalesCosmétiquesExtraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)Facteur de protection solaireFormulation (Génie chimique)FragmentationPeau -- Soins et hygiènePoudres -- Emploi en cosmétologieProduits antisolairesThé vert et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There is an increasing interest in natural raw materials to not only help improve sunscreen performance but also be environmentally conscious and sustainable. We has found that by micronizing select natural waxes, multiple benefits in sun care formulations can be achieved. Note de contenu : - TEST MATERIALS : carnauba wax - Rice bran wax - Natural green tea leaf extract - SPF IN VIVO TEST PROTOCOL & CRITERIA : Inclusion criteria - Exclusion criteria - Light source - TEST FORMULATION - TEST RESULTS - IMPROVED SENSORY AND AESTHETICS - Table 1 : In vivo SPF testing formulations Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38980 - Oleracone C from Portulaca oleracea attenuates UVB-induced changes in matrix metalloproteinase and type I procollagen production via MAPK and TGF-β/Smad pathways in human keratinocytes [texte imprimé] / Jung Hwan Oh, Auteur ; Fatih Karadeniz, Auteur ; Jung Im Lee, Auteur ; Youngwan Seo, Auteur ; Chang-Suk Kong, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 166-176.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 166-176
Catégories : AntiâgeCellules -- Cultures et milieux de cultureCosmétiquesEspèces réactives de l'oxygèneExtraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)KératinocytesLes kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis).MesureOleracone CPeau -- Soins et hygiènePhotovieillissement (dermatologie)ProcollagèneProtection contre le rayonnement ultravioletRayonnement ultraviolet B Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces photo-oxidation, which in turn causes the overproduction of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and collagen degradation. These symptoms are referred to as photoaging, which is characterized by skin thickness, irregular pigmentation, elastosis and coarse wrinkles. In this study, the protective effects of oleracone C isolated from Portulaca olerace against UVB-induced changes in MMPs and type I procollagen production were investigated in human keratinocytes. - Methods : Human immortalized keratinocytes have been used as an in vitro cell model to study the abnormal skin barrier development such as in photoaging. The effects of the compound on cell viability were determined by colorimetric MTT assay. This study also measured ROS production using DCFH-DA assay. Releases of MMPs and type Iα1 procollagen were analysed by ELISA. RT-PCR and Western blot were carried out to test the expressions of mRNA and proteins related to MMPs and type I procollagen biosynthesis. - Result : Effect of oleracone C against UVB-mediated oxidative stress was evaluated measuring its ability to eliminate UVB-induced activation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Treatment of oleracone C hindered the production of intracellular ROS. UVB exposure increased MMPs (MMP-1, MMP-2 and MMP-9) release from keratinocytes and decreased the release of type I procollagen. Treatment with oleracone C reversed these effects of UVB exposure. Oleracone C treatment also diminished the intracellular expression of MMP-1, MMP-2 and MMP-9 and elevated the type I procollagen. Oleracone C suppressed the UVB irradiation-dependent upregulation phosphorylation of p38 and ERK1/2 in the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway. Furthermore, oleracone C stimulated collagen production through the TGF-β signalling pathway, which activates collagen synthesis in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. - Conclusion : These findings reasonably suggest ameliorating the potential of oleracone C against the UVB-induced photoaging of the human keratinocytes. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Reagents - Extraction and isolation of oleracone C from Potulaca oleracea - Cell culture and UV irradiation - Cell viability - Measurement of ROS production - Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay - Reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) - Western blot analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Cytotoxicity of oleracone C in HaCaT keratinocytes - Cytoprotective effect of oleracone C against UVB-induced - Effect of oleracone C on UVB-induced ROS production cytotoxicity - Effect of oleracone C on MMPs and type Iα1 procollagen secretions in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes - Effect of oleracone C on MMPs and type I procollagen expressions in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes - Effect of oleracone C on MAPKs expression and phosphorylation - Effect of oleracone C on TGF-β/Smad signalling in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12828 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e2VOp_wPSCpirDYxsYovBlLAelGY_TUB/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39167 La Peau Analogique : la biologie cutanée par les analogies
La Peau Analogique : la biologie cutanée par les analogies [texte imprimé] / Corinne Delechette, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 68-74.Langues : Multilingue (mul)in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° 80 (03-04/2023) . - p. 68-74Catégories : Biologie cutanéeDermatologiePeau Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Parler de la peau autrement tout en restant scientifique, c'est possible par le truchement d'analogies structurelles et conceptuelles utilisées à des fins pédagogiques; Tel est l'objectif de la collection littéraire La Peau Analogique créée par Corine Déchelette, en collaboration avec un dermatologue, le Dr. Patrick Moureaux. La peau est alors comparée au textile, au papier et même à la politique. Nus vous proposons de revoir vos connaissances sur la peau par le biais d'un cours de biologie cutanée analogique et inédit. Note de contenu : - Porter un regard différent sur la peau par le prisme textile - La peau est le tissu de soi(e) - Le tissu cutané - L'étiquette de composition du tissu peau - Nous sommes des êtres de tissus - Tissu vital, la peau est une couverture patchwork ? - La peau est un tissu d'intérieur et d'extérieur - Le tissu-peau forme un manteau acide - La peau est un tisus teint - La peau, un tissu charnel - Bientôt le tissu-peau connecté ? - Tableau : Mémo de biologie cutanée analogique Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39149 Procédés et formulations au service de la santé
Procédés et formulations au service de la santé : pharmacie - cosmétique - agroalimentaire - procédés industriels [texte imprimé] / Alain Durand, Directeur de publication, rédacteur en chef ; Jean-Paul Canselier, Directeur de publication, rédacteur en chef . - Les Ulis (17, avenue du Hoggar, 17, avenue du Hoggar, 91944) : EDP Sciences : Paris (250, rue Saint-Jacques, 75005) : Société Chimique de France, 2011 . - 188 p. : ill. ; 24 cm. - (Cahiers de formulation; 15) .ISBN : 978-2-7598-0604-1 : 42 EIndex - Bibliogr.Catégories : Chimie analytiqueColloidesEmulsionsEncapsulationFormulation (Génie chimique)MesureMousse (chimie)Nanoparticules Index. décimale : 660.2 Génie chimique Résumé : Cet ouvrage s'intéresse au domaine de la santé, où, à côté des formulations classiques : macroémulsions, mousses et gels, sont apparues, par exemple, les miniémulsions, les émulsions-gels, les nanoparticules et nanocapsules. Des procédés innovants, mettant en oeuvre, par exemple, des fluides supercritiques, sont aussi à mentionner. En effet, la formulation est ici envisagée sous des angles divers : procédés de préparation (mico- ou nanoencapsulation, enrobage, génération par voie supercritique, ...), caractérisation et propriétés d'usage, étudiées par exemple par des techniques spectrométriques ou calorimétrique ou encore par des mesures rhéologiques. Note de contenu : I. EMULSIONS : Nanoencapsulation de filtres solaires via nanoémulsions - Formulation et caractérisation d'émulsions huile dans eau stabilisées par de la ?-lactoglobuline et de la gomme arabique - Mécanismes d'inversion de phase catastrophique lors de l'émulsification d'huiles visques - II. GELS ET MOUSSES : Colloïdes et procédés pour l'industrie alimentaire - Gels et libération contrôlée : défis et enjeux - Influence de la formulation optimale et de la fraction de phase dispersée sur le comportement rhéologie des émulsions gels - Dévelopment of bio-composite foam in supercritical environment : influence of process parameters on the distribution of pores of biomaterial - ENCAPSULATION, NANOPARTICULES : Méthodes d'encapsulation basées sur une réaction de transacylation - Encapsulation des protéines : Propriétés des microsphères et intégrité protéique - Influence des conditions hydrodynamiques sur la microencapsulation de parfum en réacteur semi-fermé - Nanoparticules biodégradables produites à partir de polysaccharides amphiphiles - Formulation et fluides supercritiques - IV. ANALYSES ET MESURES : Le nez et la langue électroniques : des outils d'aide à la formulation de médicaments - Dynamique d'étalement de solutions aqueuses de tensioactifs Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22343 Promotion of glyoxylic acid penetration into human hair by glycolic acid
Promotion of glyoxylic acid penetration into human hair by glycolic acid [texte imprimé] / Makoto Uyama, Auteur ; Shinya Okabe, Auteur ; Takumi Kurashima, Auteur ; Rie Kurinobu, Auteur ; Miwa Takechi, Auteur ; Ryo Yoshiba, Auteur ; Rina Miyoshi, Auteur ; Seigi Noda, Auteur ; Mio Kaneko, Auteur ; Yuka Ikemoto, Auteur ; Atsushi Takahara, Auteur ; Yuji Higaki, Auteur ; Tetsuya Hama, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 246-254.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 246-254Catégories : Acide glycoliqueL'acide glycolique (ou acide hydroxyacétique) est le plus petit des acides α-hydroxylés (AHA). L'acide glycolique est obtenu à partir d'extrait de canne à sucre, de betterave ou de raisin. Grâce à son excellente capacité à pénétrer la peau, l'acide glycolique est très utilisé dans les produits de soins pour la peau, le plus souvent dans les peelings. Toxicité : L'acide glycolique peut être très irritant selon les niveaux de pH5. Il peut être irritant pour la peau, les yeux ou les voies respiratoires6. Comme l'éthylène glycol, il est métabolisé à l'acide oxalique, ce qui peut le rendre dangereux s'il est ingéré.Cheveux -- LissageCheveux -- Soins et hygièneChromatographie en phase liquideCosmétiquesEssais (technologie)Fourier, Spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée dePénétration (physique)Permanente (coiffure)Spectrométrie de masse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Glyoxylic acid (GA) is widely used as a straight perming agent for hair care products, however, advanced GA penetration-enhancing agents are desired due to the peculiar odour and hair colour fading caused by the continuous use of GA products. Hence, it is important to develop a penetration-enhancing agent that helps minimize the GA concentration. We have found that the combined use of GA and glycolic acid (GCA) has a strong hair straightening effect. - Methods : Straightening hair test was carried out to the evaluation of the effect of additives. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC/MS) was performed to quantify the GA penetration amount into human hair. Attenuated total reflection (ATR) Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and FT-IR microscope were implemented to estimate the localization of GA in the hair. - Results : Straightening hair tests indicated that the hair straightening effect by GA was enhanced by the presence of GCA. LC/MS results showed that the addition of GCA enhanced the amount of GA that penetrated human hair by about four times. ATR FT-IR and FT-IR microscope measurements indicated that GA was localized more in the innermost region of hair (medulla) than the cortex and cuticle. The GA accumulated in the medulla disappeared after a hair straightener treatment at 180°C due to the chemical reaction. - Conclusions : The GA penetration-enhancing effect of GCA is worth investigating to reduce the GA concentration in products for more comfortable use. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Sample preparation - Straightening hair test - LC/MS - ATR FT-IR - FT-IR microscope - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Straightening hair test - Penetration amount of GA - ATR FT-IR experiments - FT-IR microscope experiments DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12838 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qoOnbZW6hICxlV8z8jHxV6_Y9HA3hEAG/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39174 Raspberry multifunctional for sustainable benefits
Raspberry multifunctional for sustainable benefits [texte imprimé] / Matthias Hentz, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 53-56.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 53-56Catégories : Anti-inflammatoiresAntienzymesAntimicrobiensAntioxydantsConservateurs (chimie)Conservateurs (chimie) -- Produits de remplacementsCosmétiquesFramboise et constituantsMatériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnellesProtection contre la peroxydation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article concentrates on AshlandÂ’s raspberry multifunctional ingredient, which enables formulators to implement a sound preservation strategy and to substantiate secondary claims based on consistent in-depth analysis. Perhaps one of the most impactful recent changes in the personal care industry is the need for a sound strategy for the use of preservatives that considers regulations, consumer demand and cost-effectiveness for a more sustainable and eco-aware market. Ever more effective preservatives must give way, creating a strong need for powerful alternatives. A challenge that holds opportunities. Contemporary strategies lean towards multifunctionals that are more costly but promise much more than preservatives. Molecules with multiple functions help formulators to achieve additional claims enabling lesser ingredients and pamper overall value for money. This article concentrates on an innovative technology that enables formulators to implement a sound preservation strategy and to substantiate secondary claims based on consistent in-depth analysis. Note de contenu : - MULTIFUNCTIONALS : THE NEW NORMAL - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Antimicrobial activity - Antioxidation - Peroxidation protection - Enzymes inhibition - Anti-inflammation - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Antimicrobial activityAntioxidation - DPPH assay (α, α-diphenyl-β-picrylhydrazyl) - Ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) - Peroxidation protection - Enzyme inhibition - Anti-inflammation Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38981 Recommendation for the quality assessment of paint care products for motor vehicles
Recommendation for the quality assessment of paint care products for motor vehicles : Part 3 : Paint polish [texte imprimé] / The German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW) (Mainzer Landstraße 55, 60329 Frankfurt am Main, Germany), Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 38-52.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 149, N° 4 (04/2023) . - p. 38-52Catégories : Automobiles -- RevêtementsAutomobiles -- VernisEssais (technologie)EvaluationFormulation (Génie chimique)Produits d'entretienQualité -- ContrôleRevêtements -- Entretien et réparations:Peinture -- Entretien et réparations Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW) member companies make their expert knowledge of the products they manufacture available to the general public; this is done in the form of quality assessment recommendations. The recommendations for the quality assessment are elaborated in working groups and are intended to enable a qualified testing of the relevant products by the manufacturers and test institutes. Quality characteristics are described that need to be fulfilled by the products concerned in order to achieve the effects expected by consumers and manufacturers. The companies working within the framework of IKW want optimal quality standards for their products. Their aim is a consistent orientation to sustainability as a guiding principle, preparing to successfully face the future in a constantly changing world. The recommendations describe which qualities are relevant to a given product and how such qualities can be measured. It should be noted that every finished product has a certain efficacy spectrum in its intended use; this spectrum is largely determined by consumer expectations as to each individual quality characteristic – so that in each product some characteristics are deliberately emphasised while others will be less important. Moreover, the desired combination of product properties is subject to constant change, depending on the latest technical possibilities and new consumer habits. Quality assessment recommendations must not impair such developments. Consequently, for each product only one overall result is valid to determine whether the product meets the quality recommendations or not. Emphasis on isolated test criteria is not admissible and may be misleading. Note de contenu : - Rules, standards and voluntary agreements - Introduction : Paint cleaners s- Paint conditioners - Aim - Paint polish, paint surfaces a nd application method - Test method for paint polishes for motor vehicles - Assessment of the test results - members of the working group - Table 1 : Typical ingredient groups and assessment criteria for the properties of paint care products - Table 2 : Assessment table of the weighted test results of a paint polish for motor vehicles - Table : Test method for paint polish for motor vehicles : 1. General information on the test paint polish - 2. Documentationof the test conditions (temperature, air humidity) during the subsequent performance of tests - 3. Properties of the test paint polish in the state as delivered - 4. Reference formulation ; test sheet and special steups for preparation - 5. Pre-treatment of test sheets and test instruction Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39257 Red kapok flower extract for intimate care
Red kapok flower extract for intimate care [texte imprimé] / Inès Duvillier, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 82-85.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 82-85Catégories : Anti-inflammatoiresDermo-cosmétologieExtraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)Fleur de KapokierLactobacillacéesMicrobiotePolysaccharidesLes polysaccharides (parfois appelés glycanes, polyosides, polyholosides ou glucides complexes) sont des polymères constitués de plusieurs oses liés entre eux par des liaisons osidiques. Les polyosides les plus répandus du règne végétal sont la cellulose et lÂ’amidon, tous deux polymères du glucose. De nombreux exopolysaccharides (métabolites excrétés par des microbes, champignons, vers (mucus) du ver de terre) jouent un rôle majeur - à échelle moléculaire - dans la formation, qualité et conservation des sols, de l'humus, des agrégats formant les sols et de divers composés "argile-exopolysaccharide" et composites "organo-minéraux"(ex : xanthane, dextrane, le rhamsane, succinoglycanes...). De nombreux polyosides sont utilisés comme des additifs alimentaires sous forme de fibre (inuline) ou de gomme naturelle. Ce sont des polymères formés d'un certain nombre d'oses (ou monosaccharides) ayant pour formule générale : -[Cx(H2O)y)]n- (où y est généralement x - 1). On distingue deux catégories de polysaccharides : Les homopolysaccharides (ou homoglycanes) constitués du même monosaccharide : fructanes, glucanes, galactanes, mannanes ; les hétéropolysaccharides (ou hétéroglycanes) formés de différents monosaccharides : hémicelluloses. Les constituants participant à la construction des polysaccharides peuvent être très divers : hexoses, pentoses, anhydrohexoses, éthers d'oses et esters sulfuriques. Selon l'architecture de leur chaîne, les polysaccharides peuvent être : linéaires : cellulose ; ramifiés : gomme arabique, amylopectine, dextrane, hémicellulose et mixtes : amidon.PrébiotiquesVagin -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The skin is colonized by billions of bacteria that participate in the regulation of immunity and barrier functions, preserving the microbiota homeostasis are essential to maintain a healthy skin and mucosa. The vaginal microbiota is composed of 90% lactic acid bacteria (lactobacilli) that colonize the vagina at puberty. This microbiota is critical to maintaining vaginal health. About 250 bacterial species have been identified in the human vagina. In healthy women of reproductive age, the vaginal microbiota is generally dominated by the genus Lactobacillus, with a prevalence of L. crispatus (59%), L. gasseri (16%), L. iners (22%), and L jensenii (3%) species. However, in most cases, only one species of lactobacilli is present. These lactobacilli have very specific functions. They stimulate the local immune system and form biofilms that create real protective shields. They transform glycogen secreted by the genital mucosa cells into lactic acid, thus creating an acidic environnent necessary to maintain the vaginal pH between 3.5 and 4.5. The vaginal pH reflects the vaginal microbiota's health: a pH higher than 4.5 indicates an imbalance in the vaginal flora, also called dysbiosis. Dysbiosis can be accompanied by symptoms such as unusual discharge, itching or vulvar pain and can sometimes lead to infection (mycosis, vaginosis etc.). During menopause, the pH is naturally 4.5. Each woman hosts several types of lactobacilli which will evolve during her cycle and her life according to hormonal variations, her environment, her intimate hygiene, her sexual life, etc. During menopause, there is a progressive decrease in estrogens, and therefore also in lactobacilli of the vaginal mucosa. It is estimated that between 55% to 70% of menopausal women suffer from vaginal dryness. Furthermore, more than 30% of postmenopausal women and 16% of women in general, are suffering from dyspareunia (pain during sexual intercourse), an unrecognized and often hidden problem mostly due to a microbiota imbalance. Women speak more and more about their intimacy and want to limit their discomfort but very few products meet consumers' specific needs. Note de contenu : - Red kapok flower extract - Biological activity in vitro : Anti-inflammatory activity - Balance of the vaginal flora - Study of the prebiotic effect on lactobacilli : evaluation of bacterial growth and metabolism - Protective effect on reconstituted vaginal epithelium - Anti-inflammatory and prebiotic effect - Clinical scoring by a gynecologist - Auto-scoring - Table 1 : Effect of red kapok flower polysaccharides (RKFP) on the growth of strains in the vaginal tract. * p Skin and vascular fitness [texte imprimé] / Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Loya Schöffel, Auteur ; Sandra Peyer, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 8-12.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 149, N° 4 (04/2023) . - p. 8-12Catégories : Circulation cutanéeContour des yeux -- Soins et hygièneDermo-cosmétologieExtraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)Imperfections cutanéesNitrique, AcidePeau -- Soins et hygièneVaricosités Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Vascular blemishes can lead to unsightly skin appearance. A neglected cause can be oedema leading to puffy eyes and promoting visibility of small blood vessels. By taking advantage of an aqueous extract from Helichrysum italicum, puffy eyes and visibility of spider veins could be significantly reduced in an in-vivo study. Data from this study and in-vitro investigations suggest a negative role of nitric oxide (NO) in the development of these blemishes. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39252 Study and optimization of oil-in-water emulsions formulated by low- and high-frequency ultrasounds
Study and optimization of oil-in-water emulsions formulated by low- and high-frequency ultrasounds [texte imprimé] / Louise Perrin, Auteur ; Sylvie Desobry-Banon, Auteur ; Guillaume Gillet, Auteur ; Stephane Desobry, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 198-213.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 198-213Catégories : CosmétiquesEmulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologieEmulsions -- StabilitéFormulation (Génie chimique)Ondes décamétriquesPlan d'expérienceUltrasons Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A combined treatment using both low-frequency (20 kHz) and high-frequency ultrasounds (1.63 MHz) is a promising new process to stabilize emulsions with minimalist formulation. In order to optimize process parameters, a Doehlert experimental design was performed with oil-in-water emulsions, presently used for cosmetic products, composed of water, caprylic/capric triglycerides and oleic acid. - Methods : Effects of treatment time, oil content and oleic acid content were studied on emulsion properties (droplet size, polydispersity index, ζ-potential and yield of oil incorporation) and on emulsion stability after a 28-day storage (creaming index, Turbiscan stability index (TSI) and oil release). - Results : From experimental data, a model was established that allowed to study effects of each parameter and their interactions on emulsion formation and stability. Oleic acid content had a great impact on emulsion formation: It reduced droplet size, PDI and ζ-potential and increased yield of oil incorporation. However, a critical value could be highlighted, beyond which oleic acid effects reversed. Treatment time had an important beneficial effect on emulsion stability as it decreased creaming index, TSI and oil release after 28 days of storage. Oil content had a negative effect on emulsion formation and on emulsion stability. However, treatment time and oil content often had a beneficial synergistic effect. - Conclusion : The optimized conditions for emulsion processing were obtained through a desirability approach. They were experimentally validated. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Emulsification process - Size and ζ-potential measurements - Multiple light scattering for stability determination - Yield of oil incorporation and oil release after 28 days of storage determination - Experimental design - Model validation - Data and statistical analyses - Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion properties - Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion stability - Optimization of emulsion properties and stability - Model validation - Table 1 : Experimental domain and levels of studied parameters in emulsification process - Table 2 : Doehlert experimental design to study emulsification process - Table 3 : Experimental data obtained for each experiment in Doehlert experimental design - Table 4 : Predictive model regression coefficients for responses defining emulsion properties - Table 5 : Prediction model regression coefficients for responses defining emulsion stability - Table 6 : Comparison between predicted and experimental data obtained for model validation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12831 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TKyB0gTa88FJ000S2FbmQdRAy_0_fxU-/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39170 Talking trash - The future of zero-waste beauty
Talking trash - The future of zero-waste beauty [texte imprimé] / Anna Crovetto, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 34-37.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 149, N° 4 (04/2023) . - p. 34-37Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Emballages -- Aspect de l'environnementÉconomie circulaireL'économie circulaire est une expression générique désignant un concept économique qui s'inscrit dans le cadre du développement durable et s'inspirant notamment des notions d'économie verte, d’économie de l'usage ou de l'économie de la fonctionnalité, de l'économie de la performance et de l'écologie industrielle (laquelle veut que le déchet d'une industrie soit recyclé en matière première d'une autre industrie ou de la même). Son objectif est de produire des biens et services tout en limitant fortement la consommation et le gaspillage des matières premières, et des sources d'énergies non renouvelables ; Selon la fondation Ellen Mac Arthur (créée pour promouvoir l'économie circulaire1), il s'agit d'une économie industrielle qui est, à dessein ou par intention, réparatrice et dans laquelle les flux de matières sont de deux types bien séparés ; les nutriments biologiques, destinés à ré-entrer dans la biosphère en toute sécurité, et des intrants techniques ("technical nutrients"), conçus pour être recyclés en restant à haut niveau de qualité, sans entrer dans la biosphèreIndustrie cosmétique -- Aspect de l'environnementMatériaux d'emballage -- RecyclageProduits commerciaux -- Réutilisation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sustainability is not a trend but a must as the impact of climate change is now felt in real-time. With growing climate anxiety and increasing green legislation, personal care companies are faced with an escalating pressure to improve their environmental footprints, as quickly as possible, while still maintaining financial profits. According to the Sustainable Beauty Coalition, a survey of 23,000 beauty shoppers found almost half (48%) are looking for more information and clarity on brandsÂ’ values and commitments to the environment. This is supported by the research of Provenance, a global leader in sustainability communications technology, which has shown that 79% of beauty shoppers have doubts about the trustworthiness of sustainability claims, highlighting the issues of greenwashing within personal care. The industrial economy runs primarily on a linear ‘take-make-disposeÂ’ model. ItÂ’s no secret that this overconsumption of the earthÂ’s resources, coupled with the amount of waste produced, is having a detrimental impact on our planet. But this impact can be mitigated by refocusing efforts on a circular economy, centred on waste prevention and reuse. Circular beauty is a green business model that focuses on repairing, reusing, and extending a productÂ’s life cycle by minimising waste across all aspects of the supply chain. To achieve circular beauty, businesses must look at every step in the creation of a product; from the ingredients used to how packaging is disposed of. Fortunately, this zero-waste movement, which seeks to redesign resource lifecycles, is gaining momentum. Companies of all shapes and sizes are strategizing to eliminate waste across their supply chains to reduce their environmental impact. This zero-waste transition improves transparency throughout the supply chain and helps beauty consumers to identify authentic sustainability actions. With a focus on ingredients and formulas, as well as packaging materials, letÂ’s explore the future of zero-waste beauty. LetÂ’s talk trash. Note de contenu : - Ingrédients & formulations : Finding value in food waste - Bring your own water - Packaging & materials : Return & reuse - Unique materials Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39256 The beauty of biodesign : new frontier for collagen
The beauty of biodesign : new frontier for collagen [texte imprimé] / Paul Mouser, Auteur ; Erin Turner, Auteur ; Michela Caffrey, Auteur ; Nick Ouzounov, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 73-76.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 73-76Catégories : AntiâgeBiotechnologieCollagèneCollagène -- SynthèseDermo-cosmétologieHyaluronique, acideL'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux. Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique. Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale. Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia)Ingrédients cosmétiquesPeau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today's beauty consumer demands sustainable, animal-free, and performance driven products. These shifting sentiments put active ingredients in the spotlight and demand innovation. Biodesign is rising to the challenge. This approach to product development combines advances in computational biology and precision fermentation to deliver the best of nature's depth and diversity to consumers. White many are familiar with biotechnology's first breakthrough ingredient — hyaluronic acid (HA) — proteins like collagen have rapidly emerged as the pioneering products enabled by biodesign. HA from microbial fermentation paved the way for future fermentation-derived bioactive ingredients. In 1998 scientists at Savient Pharmaceuticals successfully produced high molecular weight HA, historically sourced from rooster combs, through precision fermentation of the microorganism Streptococcus zooepidemicus' Biotechnology unlocked the potential to create sustainable alternatives to animal-derived molecules that eliminate unethical practices, complicated supply chains, and the use of environmentally harsh chemical processes. Collagen is another popular ingredient in beauty and an important target for biodesign as it is the most abundant protein in the human body, responsible for structure, stability, and strength within the dermal layers. In addition to its essential structural function, collagen is a signaling molecule defining cellular activities. There are at least 28 types of collagen identified in the body, all sharing a common triple helix structure yet differing in a- chain composition. Note de contenu : - ECM stimulation - in vitro - ECM stimulation - in vivo - Endogenous production of HA Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38985 The dawn of designed enzymatic biopolymers
The dawn of designed enzymatic biopolymers [texte imprimé] / Natnael Behabtu, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 69-71.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 69-71Catégories : Biopolymères enzymatiquesCosmétiquesIngrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The efficacy of beauty and personal care (BPC) products remains at the forefront of consumers' minds, particularly as a majority of BPC consumers research ingredients and product effectiveness before they make a purchase. At the same time, there is a growing expectation that ingredients are natural and eco-friendly. However, without achieving performance equal to or greater than synthetic materials, natural and biobased alternatives will not fully replace incumbent materials nor satisfy customer and consumer needs. Polymers are an important class of ingredients and are included in the production of most high-performance BPC products. The value of polymer ingredients in the personal care market is forecast to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 3.8% between 2021 and 2026.1 They can be found in hair products, such as shampoos and conditioners, and in skincare products, such as moisturising lotions and liquid soaps. Each of these polymers have distinct functions and uses, as well as different characteristics in composition, manufacturing process, and physical and chemical parameters. Polymers are typically used to impart various specific functions in formulations, serving as rheology modifiers, solubility enhancers, dispersing agents, butking agents, skin and hair conditioners, sunscreen agents, film-formers, aesthetic modifiers, and abrasives/exfoliants. Note de contenu : - A difficult trade-off - Enzymatic polymerization of polysaccharides - Designed enzymatic biopolymers - Impact of designed enzymatic polymerization Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38984 The functional advantages of natural waxes in traditional soaps
The functional advantages of natural waxes in traditional soaps [texte imprimé] / A. G. McMahon, Auteur ; Belén M. Lemieux, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 2-7.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 149, N° 4 (04/2023) . - p. 2-7Catégories : Cires -- Propriétés chimiquesCires -- Propriétés physiquesCosmétiquesHuile d'oliveMélanges (chimie)Peau -- Soins et hygièneSaponificationLa saponification est, dans le cadre général, une réaction chimique transformant un ester en un ion carboxylate et un alcool. Il s'agit en fait de l'hydrolyse en milieu basique d'un ester. Cette réaction permet la synthèse du savon.Initialement cette réaction est connue pour transformer le mélange d'un ester de glycérol et d'une base forte en un mélange de savon (ou acide gras) et glycérol, d'où son nom. Elle a été expliquée en 1823 par le chimiste français Michel-Eugène Chevreul qui a démontré que les corps gras sont formés dÂ’une combinaison entre le glycérol et des acides gras. La saponification est une réaction lente mais totale. C'est une réaction exothermique. Il existe plusieurs procédés de saponification : 1. Le procédé discontinu ou marseillais est ancien mais toujours utilisé 2. Les procédés continus. Pour accélérer la réaction, on peut jouer sur plusieurs facteurs : maintenir une température élevée ; agiter le mélange soude - ester pour permettre aux réactifs de se rencontrer plus facilement et maintenir une émulsion.Savon Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Humans have been manufacturing soap since at least 2800 B.C., modifying and perfecting their recipes over the centuries. TodayÂ’s traditional soap bars are made via saponification of triglycerides: the alkaline hydrolysis of fatty ester bonds, leading to mainly C16-C18 fatty acid soaps and glycerol. In this paper, we explore the use of Natural Waxes from Koster Keunen, Inc. as starting raw materials in soap formulations, both alone and as additives to traditional triglycerides. Twelve Natural Waxes were blended with olive oil at 50/50 ratios, each blend was fully saponified, and the reaction products were evaluated for different properties and compared to a standard olive oil soap bar. It was determined through experimentation that each Saponified Natural Wax or Saponified Natural Wax Blend made a chemically complex finished soap, with different properties from the control and from each other. Some of the benefits encountered included improved bar hardness, a longer lifespan, more hydrophobicity, and innovative INCI declarations. Note de contenu : - Soap chemistry and the role of waxes : Waxes as lipids - Waxes make complex soaps - Objective - Experimental : Materials - Methods and procedures - Experimentation : Quantitative evaluation : Effect on bar rigidity - Tactile evaluation : Effect on bar cleansing properties and lather - Sensory evaluation : Effect on bar color and odor - Practical evaluations : Trace level, recommended use level, recommended applications - Discussion : Bayberry wax - Cocoa butter - Lauryl laurate - Orange wax - Beeswax - Carnauba wax - Candelilla wax - Rice bran wax - Table 1 : Saponifiable materials found in natural waxes - Table 2 : Chemical and physical properties of natural waxes - Table 3 : Properties of saponified natural wax/olive oil blends. 50% of each natural wax was saponified with 50% olive oil and evaluated Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39251 The impact of airborne ultrafine particulate matter on human keratinocyte stem cells
The impact of airborne ultrafine particulate matter on human keratinocyte stem cells [texte imprimé] / Florian Labarrade, Auteur ; Céline Meyrignac, Auteur ; Christelle Plaza, Auteur ; Christophe Capallere, Auteur ; Jean-Marie Botto, Auteur ; Isabelle Imbert, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 214-223.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 214-223Catégories : Barrière cutanéeCellules -- Cultures et milieux de cultureCellules souchesDermatologieKératinocytesLes kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis).Particules finesPeau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphériquePeau -- PhysiologieVieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Air pollution is today fully acknowledged to be a significant public health problem. Rapid urbanization exposed us to a variety of unhealthy ambient air pollutants at high concentrations. The emergence of airborne ultrafine particles has added an additional dimension to this already complex problem of air pollution. The skin has different functions, one of them being the protection against the deleterious effect of external agents. The aim of this study is to evaluate the impact of airborne ultrafine particles (UFP) pollution on skin aging and on keratinocyte differentiation. - Methods : Ex vivo human skin biopsies and cultured keratinocytes stem cells (KSC) were submitted to diesel exhaust-derived UFP. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was assessed with the MitoSOX™ probe. Keratinocyte stemness potential was evaluated by the immunodetection of keratin 15 (K15) and p63 (∆N isoforms). Effect of UFP on the epithelial niche maintenance was evaluated by immunodetection of Sox9. Reconstructed epidermis model was used to assess the impact of UFP on keratinocyte differentiation and aging. - Results : UFP exposure induced ROS production and disturbed K15, ∆Np63 and Sox9 expression in KSC or ex vivo skin. Finally, investigations on reconstructed epidermis revealed a phenotype marked by impaired keratinocyte differentiation. - Conclusion : These results indicate that UFP pollution is a potent extrinsic factor of skin aging, affecting the keratinocyte stem cell potential and the skin renewal process. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ultrafine particles - Antibodies - Cell culture - Keratinocyte stem cells isolation - Measurement of intracellular ROS with MitoSOX™ red probe - Immunocyto-fluorescence - Immunohistological fluorescence - Reconstructed skin epidermis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Detection of mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) - Keratin 15 and ΔNp63 expression analyses in keratinocyte stem cells - Keratin 15 expression analyses in ex vivo skin biopsies - Sox9 expression analyses in ex vivo skin biopsies and in keratinocyte stem cells - Human epidermal model reconstruction DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12833 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xMen5efFuYiVSPhCW8m6z0NuewhUis-F/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39171 The role of lipid peroxidation in skin health
The role of lipid peroxidation in skin health [texte imprimé] / Norman E. Miller, Auteur ; Irina P. Miller, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 59-61.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 59-61Catégories : AcnéL'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique...Cancer de la peauCosmétiquesDermo-cosmétologiePeau -- PhysiopathologiePeau -- Soins et hygiènePeroxydationPeroxydes lipidiquesPhotovieillissement (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Although it has been known for many years that peroxidation of lipids in skin is increased by sunlight and atmospheric pollution, and that the products contribute to the ageing of skin, sunburn, and skin cancers, relatively little attention has been given to the process. This has largely been owing to the absence of a technology to protect tissues from the products of lipid peroxidation. However, this may be about to change thanks to a UK start-up created by two former Oxford medical scientists, one of whom was the co-discoverer of the protective effect of high-density lipoproteins (HDL, commonly known as 'good' cholesterol) against heart disease. The founders knew from their academic cardiovascular research that one of th eprotein components of HDL particles is able to protect vascular cells from the toxic effects of lipid peroxides by sequestering them, and that peptides had been synthesized with even greater affinity for the molecules, even though they had no sequence homology to the HDL protein. The idea of transferring the technology to skincare had been prompted when they discovered, when studying HDLs in tissue fluid collected from the skin of healthy volunteers, that the concentration of lipid peroxides in the fluid was many times greater than could be explained by the level in blood. Note de contenu : - What are lipid peroxides ? - How are they produced ? - Why is lipid peroxidation important ? - Lipid peroxides, sunlight, and photo-ageing - Lipid peroxides, DNA, and skin cancer - Lipid peroxides and acne vulgaris - Other skin conditions - Implications for skincare Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38982 Unique active ingredients balancing the skin microbiome to solve the fourth most common skin issue
Unique active ingredients balancing the skin microbiome to solve the fourth most common skin issue [texte imprimé] / Catherine Zanchetta, Auteur ; Mathias Fleury, Auteur . - 2023 . - p. 20-24.Bibliogr.Langues : Anglais (eng)in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 149, N° 4 (04/2023) . - p. 20-24Catégories : AcnéL'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique...AntiâgeBiomolécules activesDermo-cosmétologieMélanogénèseMicrobiome cutanéPeau -- Soins et hygièneSéborrhéeSensibilité cutanéeVieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin microbiota refers to the living microorganisms present on the skinÂ’s surface. As an essential part of the skinÂ’s ecosystem, the understanding of skin microbiota is crucial in developing efficient cosmetic products. Givaudan Active Beauty has developed active ingredients related to the skin microbiota, specifically targeting the four main skin issues faced by the consumers: hyperpigmentation, skin sensitivity, oiliness and skin ageing. In regulating both the skin physiology and the skin microbiome, B-Lightyl™, Mangixyl™, Sensityl™ and Yogurtene® Balance offer strong skin benefits. These ingredients are part of a larger portfolio dedicated to the skin microbiota. Globally, Givaudan Active Beauty delivers ingredients able to balance, protect and activate the microbiota to enhance the beauty of all skins. Note de contenu : - Consumer's needs & microbiome understanding - Controlling the melanogenesis by rebalancing the skin microbiota - B-lightyl TM - A unique psychobiotic soothing the skin by down-regulating inflammatory bacteria - Sensityl TM - Sebum control and acne prevention by targeting cutibacterium acnes metabolism - Mangixyl - Rejuvenating the skin microbiota for a global anti-ageing effect - Yogurtene Balance - A unique strategy for an integral offer dedicated for the microbiome Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39254 Se connecter
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