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UV-melanogenesis and cosmetic whitening / Masamitsu Ichihashi in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 4 (10-11-12/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 4 (10-11-12/2003) . - p. 279-286 Titre : UV-melanogenesis and cosmetic whitening Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Masamitsu Ichihashi, Auteur ; Yoko Funasaka, Auteur ; Masahiro Oka, Auteur ; Keishi Araki, Auteur ; Hideya Ando, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 279-286 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Mélanocytes Mélanogénèse Mélanosome Peau Rayonnement ultraviolet Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Pigmented spots that develop in sun-exposed skin, particularly on the face and the dorsa of the hands, are one of the major problems to be treated or prevented by common and functional cosmetics for Asian women having moderate constitutive pigmentation. Recent scientific advances in the understanding of the mechanisms of hyper- and hypo-melanogenesis in animal and human skin have been contributing to the development of novel topical whitening agents as cosmetics. The same applies for the systemic use of drugs and supplements that are expected to regulate melanin synthesis via up-and down-regulation of mRNA of enzymes and oter factors involved, and/or modulating the function of enzymes pivotal in melanogenesis. In this review, we describe the mechanisms of melanogenesis in relevance to melanosomes, and their transportation and transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes based on the recent evidence. Further, a role of alphamelanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and reactive oxygen species (ROS) in UV-melanogenesis is explained focusing on intracellular signal transduction. Finally, future strategy to develop lightening agents for the pigmented skin is discussed, in addition to the introduction of whitening agents previously developed in Japan. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10545 [article]

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Use of dendritic cells for the identification of skin allergens / Nicola Gilmour in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 4 (10-11-12/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 4 (10-11-12/2003) . - p. 287-293 Titre : Use of dendritic cells for the identification of skin allergens Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nicola Gilmour, Auteur ; D. A. Basketter, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 287-293 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Contact  allergène  'Cellules  dendritiques'  'Techniques  in-vitro'  de  Langerhans'  'Sensibilisation  alternatives'  peau' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There are several factors that govern the induction of allergic contact dermatitis, including skin penetration, metabolism/protein reactivity, antigen uptake and activation of Langerhans cells/dendritic cells and their migration to the lymph node to stimulate T-cells and initiate an immunological response. Dendritic cells thus represent a key cell type for the development of in-vitro cell based alternatives for the detection of contact allergens. Dendritic cells cultures exposed to the strong contact allergen 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene(DNCB) have shown up-regulation of certain markers,although with variability and not always with evidence of specificity. We aimed to derive a purified dendritic cell population (CD11c+ cells), a cell type more relevant for the identification of skin allergens. Pure populations of dendritic cells were isolated from human peripheral blood using magnetic bead separation. The cells were cultured for 5 days in a combination of granulocyte-macrophage colony stimulating factor (GM-CSF), interleukin-4(IL-4) and transforming growth factor-beta ( TGF-beta), to generate 'Langerhans cell-life'cells. This approach produced a population that was 95% CD1a positive as determined by flow cytometry. The cells expressed human leukocyte antigen (HLA)-DR but not cluster of differentiation (CD)-86 or CD83 antigens, demonstrated endocytic ability ( fluorescein isothiocyanate-dextran uptake), were weak stimulators of the mixed lymphocyte reaction and thus could be regarded as an 'immature' Langerhans cell phenotype. Exposure of these cells to sub-toxic doses of 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene (as determined by the XTT assay) resulted in elevated expression of HLA-DR (2 to 7-fold increase in mean fluorescence intensity [MFI]) and CD86 (15 to 20-fold increas in MFI) compared to control cells. Concurrent treatment with sub toxic doses of the irritant sodium lauryl sulphate or 0.1% dimethylsulfoxide (vehicle control) did not induce up-regulation of HLA-DR or CD86. Culture of blood derived CD11c+ dendritic cells thus may provide a population of Langerhans-like cells for the in-vitro evaluation of potential skin sensitizers. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10547 [article]

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In-vivo measurements of free radicals in human skin / Leonhard Zastrow in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 4 (10-11-12/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 4 (10-11-12/2003) . - p. 295-301 Titre : In-vivo measurements of free radicals in human skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Leonhard Zastrow, Auteur ; Thomas Herrling, Auteur ; Lawrence J. Berliner, Auteur ; Louis Ferrero, Auteur ; Norbert Groth, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 295-301 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Radicaux  libres'  Résonance  spin  électronique'  'Nitroxide  étiquette  par  rotation'  'Irradiation  UVA-UVB' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : UVA-UVB generated free radicals in human skin were measured by Electron Spin Resonance (ESR) spectroscopy and imaging. The short lifetime of the generated free radicals and reactive oxygen species like •OH−; O2-• and L• demands the application of spin traps (nitroxide spin labels) for scavenging and accumulating to get a sufficient Signal-to-Noise ratio. The ESR spectroscopy and imaging measurements showed that the free radicals in skin were mainly generated in the dermal layer by UVA. Using ESR measurements, the protective effect of different UVB-UVA filter combinations and antioxidants in the skin could be clearly assessed. The used microwave frequencies of 9.5 GHz (λ=350-600 nm) and 3 GHz (λ=9.5 nm) enabled an undisturbed investigation of the whole skin up to the lower dermis in contrast to optical detection methods that are more limited in depth (λ=350-600 nm). ESR spectroscopy is a valuable method for the evaluation of the UV-protection capacity of sunscreen products. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10552 [article]

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Classification of sensitive skin and development of a treatment system appropriate for each group / Tomohiro Yokota in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 4 (10-11-12/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 4 (10-11-12/2003) . - p. 303-307 Titre : Classification of sensitive skin and development of a treatment system appropriate for each group Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tomohiro Yokota, Auteur ; Masayuki Matsumoto, Auteur ; Takeshi Sakamaki, Auteur ; Rie Hikima, Auteur ; Shoji Hayashi, Auteur ; Mayumi Yanagisawa, Auteur ; Hirofumi Kuwahara, Auteur ; Shyunsuke Yamazaki, Auteur ; Tomoyasu Ogawa, Auteur ; Motoi Hayase, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 303-307 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Fonction  barrière'  Classification  'Etat  d'hydratation'  Hypersensibilité  'Peau  sensible'  'Sensibilité  aux  stimuli  électriques'  'Points  cuisants'  'Densité  des  papilles  cutanées'  'Modèle  de  desquamation'  'Facteur  croissance  du  nerf'  'Perte  d'eau  transepidermique'  'Épaisseur  l'épiderme' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In order to find an effective approach to improve sensitive skin, it is important to know the detailed mechanism of sensitive skin. In this study, detailed characteristics of sensitive skin were investigated using non-invasive methods. Senssitive skin was classified into three different types based on their particular characteristics. Type I was defined as the low barrier function group. Type II was defined as the inflammation group with normal barrier function and inflammatory changes. Type III was specified as the pseudo healthy group in terms of normal barrier function and no inflammatory change. In all types, a high content of nerve growth factor was observed in the stratum corneum. Both in Type II and III, the sensitivity to electric stimuli was high. Moreover, a treatment system appropriate for type I was examined. Topical application of cosmetics containing niacinamide significantly improved Type I sensitive skin, while there was no effect observed in either Type II or III showing normal barrier function. These data suggest that sensitive skin could be classified into three groups each with particular characteristics and an appropriate approach should be taken to improve sensitive skin with consideration given to the underlying mechanism of skin sensitivity. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10553 [article]

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Prevention of UV-induced skin damage by activation of tumor suppressor genes p53 and p14ARF / Rolf-Dieter Petersen in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 4 (10-11-12/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 4 (10-11-12/2003) . - p. 309-315 Titre : Prevention of UV-induced skin damage by activation of tumor suppressor genes p53 and p14ARF Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rolf-Dieter Petersen, Auteur ; John Sabrina, Auteur ; Maria Lueder, Auteur ; Stefan Borchert, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 309-315 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Réparation  de  l'ADN'  'Vieillissement  prématuré'  'Suppression  des  gênes  tumoraux'  'Exposition  aux  UV'  'Protection Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : UV-irradiated keratinocytes, pretreated with a soy seed-derived cosmetic active, showed a distinctly reduced decrease in ATP levels, a more effective DNA repair and a reduced formation of irreparable sunburn cells. The search for regulating mechanisms responsible for the results obtained suggested the investigation of the influence of this soy seed active on the tumor suppressor gene p53. Using primary human keratinocytes that were chronically UV-irradiated, it was possible to prove that the soy seed active significantly increased the p53 phosphorylation rate. Only phosphorylated p53, which acts as a transcription factor, can arrest the cell cycle in the case of DNA damage and up-regulated DNA repair or prevent survival of non-reparable cells by inducing apoptosis. In the same cell line it was found that, after chronic UV-irradiation, the soy seed active had stimulated the expression of the tumor suppressor gene p14ARF by more than twice the control rate. The significance of p14ARF for the functioning of the p53 pathway was recognized only recently. p53 can be down-regulated even in case of severe DNA damage without cell cycle arrest. The responsible factor is the p53 antagonist, the oncoprotein Mdm2. p14ARF as an inhibitor of Mdm2 can subsequently activate p53 and is therefore considered a second defense line in counteracting mutation. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10556 [article]

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