Accueil
INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) . N° 56Real leather. Stay differentMention de date : 11-12/2022 Paru le : 25/10/2022 |
Dépouillements
Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierFrench tanning on the rebound / Tom Hogarth in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 56 (11-12/2022)
[article]
Titre : French tanning on the rebound Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tom Hogarth, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 22-28 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie et commerce -- France Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The author reviews the latest statistical data from the leather industry in France for HI 2022 and since the Covid pandemic. What can the trends in the data tell us about the future for the French leather sector ? Note de contenu : The fact at hand
- Finished leather product data
- Rewind to 2021
- Surviving the pandemic
- A return to formEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1REI_Ak6QGKcH101UdbfGJ21glSFTuVxx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38430
in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 56 (11-12/2022) . - p. 22-28[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23658 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
[article]
Titre : Sugar tanning Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur ; Andy Schweizer, Auteur ; Wolfgang Armbruster, Auteur ; Daniel Gruseck, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 30-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Composés organiques -- Synthèse
Cuirs et peaux -- Biodégradation
Ecotoxicologie
Réactions chimiques
Tannage chrome free
TrioseUn triose est un ose (monosaccharide) contenant trois atomes de carbone. Ils ont la même formule brute C3H6O3.
Il n'y a que deux trioses :
- le glycéraldéhyde, un aldotriose
- la dihydroxyacétone, un cétotriose
Les trioses jouent un rôle important dans la respiration. (Wikipedia)Index. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : The leather industry is constantly moving into new areas of chemistry and technology. The development of chromium-free leathers is an area of active research with great commercial incentives for tanneries to have a range of tannage types in their portfolio.
The chemical industry is keen to help tanners, including embracing green chemistry principles Kreuder et al. (2017). At the heart of these principles are the adoption of environmentallyfriendly practices and the use of chemicals that have low environmental and human impact. Low-risk profiles are a major driver for new tanning chemistry.
In terms of low environmental and social impacts, the tannage step is a key driver in determining the fundamental sustainability of a final leather article. A modem tanning chemical must ideallybe manufactured of renewable resources that should be of biogenic origin. If a waste biogenic chemical can be sourced, converted into a chemical ideal for tannage and then used with easy application, on multiple leather article types, then it will be of great interest to the international tanning community.
Further, leather manufacturing processes generate trimming and other processing by-products that must be sustainably and profitably managed. If the final leather, the by-products, (and the leather articles) can be part of a circular bioeconomy, then the fundamental chemical building blocks can be recycled back into natural elemental cycles.
This paper will outline a triose chemistry that will introduce new tannage capabilities that will allow even further green chemistry into the global leather industry.Note de contenu : - Which sugars ?
- Chemical reaction
- Manufacture science
- Process science
- Biodegradability science
- Fig. 1 : Chemical structure of triose
- Fig. 2 : Nucleophilic attack on the tanning agent (Ɛ-amino group tageting triose carbonyl)
- Fig. 3 : Chemical manufacture of triose
- Fig. 4 : Photo of disintegration of triose tanned leather on day 11 of the ISO 2O200 test
- Fig. 5 : Plant ecotoxicity studies of triose showing vibrant top growthEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U5du7LjkPfHN-HGyaaxqzBk9ZWut21FG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38431
in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 56 (11-12/2022) . - p. 30-34[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23658 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Consumers want leather - Despite media coverage / Randy Johnson in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 56 (11-12/2022)
[article]
Titre : Consumers want leather - Despite media coverage Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Randy Johnson, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 35-37 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Automobiles -- Matériaux
Consommateurs -- Attitudes
Consommateurs -- Préférences
Cuir
Cuir dans les automobiles
Matériaux -- Perception visuelleIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : As one of the leading designers and manufacturers of leather for the global automotive industry, Pangea as been observing consumer perception and the growth of alternative materials. All materials have a place in the decision-making process and those decisions must be made freely, however it is also important that these choices are made with full awareness. With the growth of synthetic materials there has been arise in confusion by consumers, leading them to believe that synthetic materials are genuine leather. This article explores Pangea's research and observations on consumer beliefs, misrepresentation, and a suggestion on how we might collectively bring knowledge and truth into public awareness. Note de contenu : - Consumer love leather
- Deception
- Leather legalities
- Call to action
- Fig. 1 : Next car seating material
- Fig. 2 : Percieved satisfaction for current surface material
- Fig. 3 : Awareness about naming
- Fig. 4 : Customers' reaction after discovering not leatherEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZWSSv5oh-m0sKz5K5ozzFdVFZZKIvCnh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38432
in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 56 (11-12/2022) . - p. 35-37[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23658 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
[article]
Titre : Lime-free processing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 44-46 Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Liming/unhairing removes unwanted hair and globular proteins, opens the fibre structure and modifies the collagen. Traditional liming used either quicklime, CaO, or the slaked lime (hydrated), Ca(OH)2, to achieve this. Unhairing associated with traditional liming was slow, the alkaline Ca(OH)2 would break the keratin's disulphide links and with just lime present they could reform. Sharpening agents, such as sulphide, were added to prevent the reformation and to speed the breakdown of the keratin (hair and epidermis).
Alternative technology for the replacement of liming chemistry has focused on the substitution of sulphide, and amines (e.g., dimethylamine). Fellmongers, for generations, have always been reluctant to use lime because the Ca2+ ion can react with fat (common in sheepskins) to form calcium soaps. Calcium soaps can lose their Ca2+ in the presence of Cr3+ which will form pink-coloured stains on the sheepskin. A further reason why fellmongers choose not to use lime is that the saponification (alkaline reaction with fat) is lower than what can be achieved using other alkalis.
A more recent reason that tanners may avant to consider removing lime is because of the greenhouse gas implications of lime production from limestone, and the insolubility of slaked lime — leading to the pursuance of green chemistry ideals (e.g. an efficient atom economy and fewer intermediates of derivatives in the process).
This article will examine the technology that has been used to try and work with a lime-free industry.Note de contenu : - Lime manufacture
- Lime in leather
- Lime alternative
- Fig. 1 : The chemical reaction of limestone (CaCO3) to quicklime (CaO)
- Fig. 2 : The chemistry of CaO hydration (that also releases heat)
- Fig. 3 : The lime cycle
- Fig. 4 : The chemical equilibrium showing the solubility of Ca(OH)2 (Ksp=5.02x10-6)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BiyJ02wCMwN6sS0aLtLA5a1d3Jq0DcQg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38433
in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 56 (11-12/2022) . - p. 44-46[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23658 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
[article]
Titre : Longevity and durability Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 52-54 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation
Cuir synthétique
Détérioration chimique
Durée de vie (Ingénierie)
Matériaux -- Détérioration
Matériaux -- Régénération
Matières plastiques -- Détérioration
OxydationIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : As part of a sustainable strategy, many proponents have advocated a model that relies on long-lived products that displace short-lived, single-use products. These long-lived products need to be durable and must be able to be easily regenerated in a circular economy. The remanufacture, refmishing or renewal of the products will push their already long lives, even further. Note de contenu : - Degradation mechanisms
- Chemical degrdation
- Oxidative degradation
- Oxidative degradation
- Biodegradation
- Leather and finish regeneration
- Fig. 1 : Polyvinyl chloride material withplasticiser migration and crack
- Fig. 2 : Plastic seating covers that emulate leather - wille need replacing far more often than leather
- Fig. 3 : Acid or alkali attack on the collagen peptide groupEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o1ww92Hqm9Sf-RORPIf4dw9IkSdqiOqW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38434
in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 56 (11-12/2022) . - p. 52-54[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23658 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible LCA of selected biopolymers / Olga Ballùs in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 56 (11-12/2022)
[article]
Titre : LCA of selected biopolymers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Olga Ballùs, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 56-61 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biopolymères
Cuir
Durée de vie (Ingénierie)
Environnement -- Etudes d'impact
Evaluation
Matières premières
Poids moléculaires
Polyacryliques
Polymères -- Propriétés physiques
Polymères -- Suppression ou remplacement
Ressources renouvelables
Spectrométrie infrarougeIndex. décimale : 668.9 Polymères Résumé : The aim of this work was to determine the environmental impact of a new biopolymer when fossil-based raw materials were replaced with protein derivatives, as compared with a standard acrylic resin. To this end, the life cycle assessment (LCA) of both products was conducted. In order to examine result variations due to data changes, sensitivity analyses were also performed by replacing the protein derivative with a polysaccharide derivative (PS).
Both products were characterised by IR, gel permeation chromatography (GPC), and carbon-14 content. The new biopolymer was applied as a retanning agent and compared with a standard acrylic resin. Thickness, softness, physical resistance, colour intensity and fastness were assessed.
The LCA concluded that the use of protein-based products reduces the environmental impact in 17 of the 19 impact categories analysed. In particular, the carbon footprint was reduced by 47% versus the standard acrylic resin. On the other hand, replacing the protein derivative with a polysaccharide derivative increased all categories, thereby highlighting the impacts associated with the production of polysaccharides.
Our results show that fossil-based raw materials can be partially replaced with biopolymers that provide similar organoleptic characteristics. However, the use of biobased products does not imply a reduction of all the environmental impacts involved in LCA.Note de contenu : - Raw material and leather assessments
- Infrared spectra (IR)
- Renewable raw material
- Molecular weight
- Life cycle assessment
- Fig. 1 : Stages of a product life cycle
- Fig. 2 : Synthesis of the biopolymer
- Fig. 3 : Infrared spectra : a. acrylic acid, b. product AP
- Fig. 4 : Environmental impacts of standard acrylic resin vs. AP
- Fig. 5 : Environmental impacts of standard acrylic resin vs. AS
- Table 1 : Application formula
- Table 2 : Degree of whiteness and fastness results
- Table 3 : Fullness, softness and physical resistance results
- Table 4 : Molecular weight of AP and standard productEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11sy75fBPXo8ixKtgGtpkcfb1dbZMASiT/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38435
in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 56 (11-12/2022) . - p. 56-61[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23658 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres | Cote | Support | Localisation | Section | Disponibilité |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
23658 | - | Périodique | Bibliothèque principale | Documentaires | Disponible |