Comparative sorption isotherms for colorants present in Dyers’ madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) provide new insights into historical dyeing / Lauren Ford in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018) . - p. 3-12 Titre : Comparative sorption isotherms for colorants present in Dyers’ madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) provide new insights into historical dyeing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lauren Ford, Auteur ; Christopher M. Rayner, Auteur ; Richard S. Blackburn, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 3-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption Adsorption Colorants -- Analyse Colorants végétaux Garance et constituants Laine Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Dyers madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been famously used throughout history as a source of red dye. The sorption onto mordanted wool of the major colorant components of R. tinctorum, alizarin and the glycosides ruberythric acid and lucidin primeveroside, is studied herein. Sorption of a purified 1:1 mixture of ruberythric acid:lucidin primeveroside most closely followed a Temkin isotherm (R2 0.925), whereas alizarin followed a Freundlich isotherm (R2 0.940). These results were compared with HPLC chromatograms of English, Turkish and Iranian varieties of R. tinctorum before and after dyeing, where it was observed that the glycosides are shown to have the highest uptake onto wool. The higher sorption energy of the purified 1:1 ruberythric acid:lucidin primeveroside mixture (–11.4 kJ mol−1) compared with alizarin (–5.8 kJ mol−1) is in agreement with the HPLC results, indicating that the ruberythric acid/lucidin primeveroside mixture has a substantially higher affinity for wool compared with alizarin. Not only do the glycosides show higher affinity for the wool, but greater interactions between adsorbed species suggest a more extensive aggregation of dye on the surface of the wool. These observations are in contrast with much of the literature and bring into question previous conclusions that alizarin was the main dyeing species throughout history. Note de contenu : - THEORY : Langmuir isotherm - Freundlich isotherm - Temkin isotherm - Adsorption energy - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Purification of 'ruberythric acid' by solid-phase extraction (SPE) - Dyeing process - Sorption isotherms - UV/visible spectrophotometry - High performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-DAD) - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : HPLC dyeing studies of Iranian, Turkish and English madder - Sorption isotherms of the purified 1:1 ruberythric acid : lucidin primeveroside mixture and alizarin DOI : 10.1111/cote.12327 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12327 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30122 [article]

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A custom ink-jet printing system using a novel pretreatment method / Yuqian Zhang in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 125, N° 6 (2009)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 125, N° 6 (2009) . - p. 357-364 Titre : A custom ink-jet printing system using a novel pretreatment method Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yuqian Zhang, Auteur ; Stephen Westland, Auteur ; Vien Cheung, Auteur ; Stephen M. Burkinshaw, Auteur ; Richard S. Blackburn, Auteur Année de publication : 2010 Article en page(s) : p. 357-364 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : A low-cost and environmental-friendly direct dye-based ink-jet printing system was developed. A novel ink-jet pretreatment method was employed, in which the cationic fixing agent, Matexil FC-ER, was applied as the colourless fixing ink and applied only on image areas of the fabric by ink-jet printer. It was found that this new pretreatment method could more effectively enhance the colour strength and improve the wash fastness (greyscale ≥ 3) when compared with traditional exhaust application. The cross-staining of non-image areas of fabric was also apparently decreased using this new method. The light fastness of ink-jet pretreated samples was slightly reduced as the presence of Matexil FC-ER made dyes more sensitive to light. DOI : 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2009.00218.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2009.00218.x/pdf Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=7626 [article]

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A dye–fibre system from food waste: Dyeing casein fibres with anthocyanins / Richard S. Blackburn in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 393-402 Titre : A dye–fibre system from food waste: Dyeing casein fibres with anthocyanins Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard S. Blackburn, Auteur ; Joseph A. Houghton, Auteur ; Marie Stenton, Auteur ; Alenka Tidder, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 393-402 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aliments -- Déchets Anthocyanes Cassis et constituants Colorants végétaux Colorimétrie Coton Le coton est une fibre végétale qui entoure les graines des cotonniers "véritables"(Gossypium sp.), un arbuste de la famille des Malvacées. Cette fibre est généralement transformée en fil qui est tissé pour fabriquer des tissus. Le coton est la plus importante des fibres naturelles produites dans le monde. Depuis le XIXe siècle, il constitue, grâce aux progrès de l'industrialisation et de l'agronomie, la première fibre textile du monde (près de la moitié de la consommation mondiale de fibres textiles). Fibres de caséine Recyclage (déchets, etc.) Résistance au lavage Teinture -- Fibres textiles synthétiques Textiles et tissus multifibres Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Regenerated protein fibres manufactured from food side-streams offer significant potential as circular and sustainable fibres, but greater knowledge of their dyeing properties is required. In this research, coloration of casein fibres with dyes also extracted from blackcurrant skins left over from juice pressing is explored. Casein fibre was dyed with blackcurrant extract, rich in anthocyanins, from pH 2 to pH 6 and from 40 to 80°C, with and without alum. Casein fibres could be dyed with blackcurrant extract across all conditions tested, and under optimal conditions, dyeing is achieved with medium depths of colour with good wash fastness. Highest sorption of anthocyanins onto casein is observed at pH 4, where anthocyanins are a mixture of 60% neutral purple quinonoidal base form and 40% flavylium cation form; under these conditions dye–fibre interaction is optimal. At pH 2, casein fibre has a highly positively charged surface and anthocyanin is in the flavylium cation form, leading to some dye–fibre repulsion. At pH 6, the slightly negatively charged casein fibre demonstrates lower sorption of the mixture of 40% purple quinonoidal base form and 60% the anionic quinonoidal base form, again leading to some dye–fibre repulsion. Presence of alum in the dyebath enhances sorption of anthocyanins onto fibre at pH 4 due to formation of Al–anthocyanin complexes. Wash fastness of the dyeings is better as pH increases and as temperature increases. Note de contenu : - Material - Dyeing process - Wash fastness testing - Colour measurement Table 1 : Summary of charge of model protein and form of anthocyanin with varying pH values - Table 2 : Colour change values for casein fibre dyed with blackcurrant extract powder (with varying, pH, temperature and inclusion of alum) following wash fastness testing - Table 3 : Grey scale staining ratings for transfer to cotton portion of Multifibre DW fabric from casein fibre dyed with blackcurrant extract powder (with varying, pH, temperature and inclusion of alum) following wash fastness testing DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12718 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RJLVk0to_mDVVYuwsOeWzJwXpJu0Z_ov/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40957 [article]

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Dyeing behaviour of lyocell fabric : effect of fibrillation / Parikshit Goswami in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 123, N° 6 (2007)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 123, N° 6 (2007) . - p. 387-393 Titre : Dyeing behaviour of lyocell fabric : effect of fibrillation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Parikshit Goswami, Auteur ; Richard S. Blackburn, Auteur ; Jim Taylor, Auteur ; Stephen Westland, Auteur ; Patrick White, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 387-393 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : To understand the effect of fibrillation in dyeing, non-fibrillated lyocell fabrics and fibrillated lyocell fabrics were dyed with different types of reactive dyes. Their exhaustion, fixation and K/S values were measured and compared. It was observed that fibrillated lyocell shows lower visual colour yield than non-fibrillated lyocell, independent of the exhaustion and fixation. It was also observed that some bifunctional reactive dyes, because of the location of reactive groups and flexibility of their structure, reduced fibrillation of lyocell through crosslinking. It was shown that defibrillating fibrillated lyocell with a cellulase enzyme increased the visual colour yield. Non-fibrillated lyocell fabrics after dyeing were subjected to a hydroentanglement treatment to create a fibrillation effect. These properties suggest that the lower visual colour yield of fibrillated lyocell is not mainly attributed to any change in fibre properties of the fibrils, but as a result of the light scattering from the fibrillated fabric surface. DOI : 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2007.00113.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2007.00113.x/pdf Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=6859 [article]

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Extraction of anthocyanins from Aronia melanocarpa skin waste as a sustainable source of natural colorants / Muhammad H. Wathon in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 135, N° 1 (02/2019)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 135, N° 1 (02/2019) . - p. 5-16 Titre : Extraction of anthocyanins from Aronia melanocarpa skin waste as a sustainable source of natural colorants Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Muhammad H. Wathon, Auteur ; Nicholas Beaumont, Auteur ; Meryem Benohoud, Auteur ; Richard S. Blackburn, Auteur ; Christopher M. Rayner, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 5-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Adsorption Anthocyanes Colorants végétaux Extraction (chimie) Index. décimale : 667.2 Colorants et pigments Résumé : Aronia melanocarpa (Michx.) Elliott (black chokeberry) skin wastes from the production of Aronia fruit juice were extracted using a batch extraction method and a novel integrated extraction-adsorption process. Optimum conditions for batch extraction were as follows: 60 °C, 3 h, acid (0.1% v/v hydrochloric acid), biomass-to-solvent ratio of 1:16, and biomass-to-solid phase extraction resin ratio of 1:1. The integrated extraction-adsorption process gave improved anthocyanin yields of higher quality when the process was performed for 3 h without cooling of the circulating liquid, and with a flow rate of 1.3 ml s-1. Overall, the new method showed better anthocyanin yield and purity compared with the batch method, increasing the extraction yield by ca. 20% (5.25 6.34 mg g-1 dry weight of pomace) and increasing anthocyanin content by ca. 40% (19.9 28.4% w/w dry weight of extract). This method also simplified the process as three steps were eliminated saving time and energy. Furthermore, the integrated extraction-adsorption method is industrially scalable to produce large quantities of anthocyanins. In the batch method, anthocyanins present in A. melanocarpa skins were identified as cyanidin-3-O-galactoside (38.8%), cyanidin-3-O-arabinoside (6.4%), cyanidin-3-O-glucoside (3.6%), cyanidin-3-O-xyloside (0.5%), and the cyanidin aglycon (50.7%); in the continuous method, anthocyanin content was cyanidin-3-O-galactoside (45.7%), cyanidin-3-O-arabinoside (16%), cyanidin-3-O-glucoside (3.6%), cyanidin-3-O-xyloside (2.7%), and the cyanidin aglycon (32%). The integrated extraction-adsorption method was shown to be substantially less susceptible to acid-catalysed anthocyanin decomposition processes. All anthocyanins were derived from only one anthocyanidin parent structure (cyanidin), and only monosaccharide glycosides were identified, which is unusual when compared with other berries that typically have more anthocyanidins and/or greater glycosylation diversity. Note de contenu : - Chemicals and materials - General procedures and instrumentation - Sequential batch extraction - adsorption method - Integrated extraction-adsorption method - Fig. 1 : Effect of pH on anthocyanin structure and resultant colour - Fig. 2 : Experimental set-up for the integrated extraction-adsorption process. Arrows indicate direction of flow of extracted liquid - Fig. 3 : Extraction profiles during a batch extraction of Aronia melanocarpa waste skins at various temperatures. The absorbance was monitored using a UV-vis spectrometer at 520 nm - Fig. 4 : Extraction profiles during a batch extraction of Aronia melanocarpa waste skins at different pH (2.4 and 5.2) at 60°C. The absorbance was monitored a UV-vis spectrometer at 520 nm - Fig. 5 : Effect of pH on UV-vis absorbance of anthocyanins extracted from Aronia melanocarpa waste skins; measurement was carried out on post-SPE residues of th ethanol elute [1 mg extract in 1 ml acidified water (0.1% v/v hydrochloric acid)]. The colours of aqueous solutions tested are shown at the top - Fig. 6 : H-NMR spectra of post-SPE residues of ethyl acetate elute and ethanol elute. The 1H-NMR spectra were recorded at 500 MHz. Labels 1–5 refer to the five signals seen in the H NMR spectra of anthocyanins and correspond to their H-4 protons - Fig. 7 : The comparison between (left) a batch method and (right) an integrated extraction-adsorption method - Fig. 8 : Total anthocyanins calculated according to relative % shown in HPLC chromatograms of the batch method and the integrated method. Solvent A : H2O : TFA (99.5:0.5) ; solvent B : acetonitrile. Detected by DAD at 520 nm - Fig. 9 : Profile of anthocyanins shown in HPLC chromatograms of (a) the batch and (b) the integrated method. Solvent A: H2O/TFA (99.5:0.5) ; solvent B: acetonitrile. Detected by DAD at 520 nm : 1. Cy3gal ; 2. Cy3ara ; 3. Cy3glc ; 4. Cy3xyl ; 5. cyanidin (aglycon) ; 6. polymeric species - Fig. 10 : H-NMR spectra of post-SPE residues of ethanol wash for the batch method and the integrated method. The 1H-NMR spectra were recorded at 500 MHz. Labels 1–5 refer to the five signals seen in the H NMR spectra of anthocyanins and correspond to their H-4 protons - Fig. 11 : The effect of acid concentration on total anthocyanins calculated according to relative % shown in HPLC chromatograms of (a) the batch and (b) the integrated method. Solvent A : H2O/TFA (99.5:0.5) ; solvent B: acetonitrile. Detected by DAD at 520 nm DOI : 10.1111/cote.12385 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12385 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31660 [article]

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Food colorants : their past, present and future / Tom Coultate in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 3 (06/2018)  

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In situ fabric coloration with indigo synthesised in flow / Michael P. Haaf in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 135, N° 2 (04/2019)  

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John Mercer FRS, FCS, MPhS, JP : the Father of Textile Chemistry / Ian Holme in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 135, N° 3 (06/2019)  

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Natural dyes in madder (Rubia spp.) and their extraction and analysis in historical textiles / Richard S. Blackburn in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 133, N° 6 (12/2017)  

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Sustainable textiles / Richard S. Blackburn / Cambridge [United Kingdom] : Woodhead Publishing Ltd (2009)

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The development of indigo reduction methods and pre-reduced indigo products / Richard S. Blackburn in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 125, N° 4 (2009)  

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