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Micro-inflammatory vicious cycle : a new target to delay skin aging / Philippe Moussou in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 3 (07-08-09/2012)
[article]
Titre : Micro-inflammatory vicious cycle : a new target to delay skin aging Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philippe Moussou, Auteur ; Louis Danoux, Auteur ; Florence Henry, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 151-158 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Antioxydants
Cosmétiques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Neuropeptides
Peau -- Inflammation
Plasmine
Vieillissement cutanéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The age-related chronic low grade up-regulation of the inflammatory response is a major factor underlying the cutaneous aging process. To fight against micro-inflammation and its visible consequence on skin aging, we developed a cosmetic ingredient able to modulate three key pathways : NF-Ï°B, neuropeptides and plasmin activity. Eperua falcata extract was shown in vitro to :
1. decrease the activation of NF-Ï°B and the release of pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8 in stimulated human keratinocytes,
2. decrease the neuropeptide CGRP release by sensory neurons, and
3. inhibit plasmin protease activity.
In addition, it inhibited the release of superoxide anions, the UVA-induced oxidation of fibroblast membrane lipids and cytokine induction in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes, showing its capacity to protect epidermal cells against the environmental and oxidative stresses that aggravate the micro-inflammatory vicious cycle. Toical in vivo application of an Eperua falcata extract-containing formulation for 28 days significantly improved the skin biomechanical properties and decreased transepidermal water loss. These data showed that Eperua falcata extract in vitro inhibited the pathways involved in inflammaging, with in vivo an improvement of the skin elasticity, firmness and tonicity, and reinforcement of the integrity of skin barrier function.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15748
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