[article]
| Titre : |
An extract of Leontopodium alpinum inhibits catagen development ex vivo and increases hair density in vivo |
| Type de document : |
document électronique |
| Auteurs : |
Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Alizée Le Riche, Auteur ; Janin Edelkamp, Auteur ; Alfonso Fernandez Botello, Auteur ; Emmanuel Martin, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; Marta Bertolini, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2022 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 363-376 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Biomolécules actives
Cheveux -- Croissance
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Dermo-cosmétologie
Edelweiss et constituants
Follicule pileux
Produits capillaires
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
- Objectives : Hair loss and reduction in hair volume are hallmarks of hair disorders, such as telogen effluvium, or male or female pattern hair loss, and hair ageing, which can cause severe distress in both men and women. Common anti-hair loss drugs carry some side effects; therefore, novel, safer approaches targeting milder phenotypes are highly advocated. In this context, we investigated an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss, Leontopodium alpinum var. Helvetia, for its ability to modulate hair follicle (HF) growth ex vivo and inhibit hair loss while increasing hair regeneration in vivo.
- Methods : Human amputated HFs were microdissected from three donors, two women and one man, and cultured ex vivo for 6 days. After treatment with 0.001% Edelweiss extract (EWDE), we investigated hair shaft production and anagen/catagen conversion, and measured known parameters associated with hair growth, that is hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation and apoptosis, dermal papilla inductivity, and growth factors, by quantitative (immuno)histomorphometry. To assess the anti-hair loss potential of the alpine plant compound, we performed a randomized, placebo-controlled human study enrolling Caucasian women and men, aged 18 to 65 years, with normal hair loss. After 5 months’ daily use of an extract containing leave-on serum, we analysed hair density and anagen-to-catagen/telogen ratio by the Trichogram analysis.
- Results : Our results revealed a significant prolongation in the anagen phase in HFs treated with 0.001% Edelweiss, as indicated by an increase in HFs remaining in anagen and a significant decrease in hair cycle score. In line with this effect, EWDE significantly stimulated hair matrix (HM) keratinocyte proliferation, and dermal papilla inductivity, as shown by a significant up-regulation of versican expression and alkaline phosphatase activity, and a tendential increase in FGF7 immunoreactivity in the dermal papilla of all HFs or only anagen VI HFs. Corroborating the ex vivo results, we observed a significant increase in growing hair shaft numbers (hair density) after treatment with Edelweiss extract formulation, and a tendential up-regulation in the anagen-to-catagen/telogen ratio.
- Conclusions : We show here, through several lines of evidence, that the selected extract of the alpine plant Leontopodium alpinum var Helvetia (Edelweiss) inhibits premature catagen induction, possibly by stimulating dermal papilla inductivity. It is therefore worth exploiting this extract clinically as an anti-hair loss agent, both for preventing ageing-associated hair shedding and as an adjuvant therapy for hair loss disorders. |
| Note de contenu : |
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Donor material and information - Leontopodium alpinum extract preparation - Hair follicle organ culture and treatment - Frozen hair sample processing - Immunofluorescence - Histochemistry - Alkaline phosphatase in situ activity - Hair cycle staging and scoring - Hair follicle elongation/Hair shaft production - Clinical study
- RESULTS : Edelweiss extract prolongs anagen phase ex vivo - Edelweiss extract significantly stimulates hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation - Edelweiss extract stimulates dermal papilla inductivity ex vivo - Edelweiss extract significantly increases hair density in our study population - Edelweiss extract increases anagen/catagen-to-telogen ratio |
| DOI : |
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12783 |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1roEyyeeGxdrMDR8pTlYOeFSjjusLGtvd/view?usp=shari [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38136 |
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 363-376
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