Dépouillements

From low grade leather to high specification fashion article taking the environment friendly road / Carla Cattaneo in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 6, N° 5 (08-09/1993)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 6, N° 5 (08-09/1993) . - p. 43-47 Titre : From low grade leather to high specification fashion article taking the environment friendly road Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Carla Cattaneo, Auteur ; Alessandro Tamburini, Auteur Année de publication : 1993 Article en page(s) : p. 43-47 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aniline Cuir pleine fleur Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Cuirs et peaux -- Teinture Enduction au rouleau Gaufrage Polyacryliques Polyuréthanes Revêtements organiques Vernis Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Results of protracted and extensive research demonstrate that sound quality can be obtained when processing inferior quality leathers. A major breakthrough is achievable with productivity and environmental factors remaining firmly part of the equation. The development work carried out focussed upon the concept of combining rollcoating machine operations, patterned rollers and plate embossing. Chemical products and applications were studied aimed at keeping operations simple and to secure clearly balanced and sophisticated results with the introduction of a range of wholly new products responding to high quality requirements. The research work involved an improved understanding of the process and its implications upon production costs, leading to ideal finishing techniques, optimum productivity and thus to market competitiveness. Note de contenu : - Raw material - Leather creates fashion - Pattern rollers - Embossing plates - Products - Service - Fig. 1 : Product 1 - Ministruzzo From low quality leather, buffed as for nubuck (2 x 2801320) Aniline dyeing to prepare leather 2 passes on UNIROLL RP roll coater/M-026 rouler with pearl pigment with casein and resin water based mixture. Ministruzzo Famac embossing plate Tipping effect to apply gloss Willepunte on top of embossing (effect witb water based crosslinked polyuretbane) May be smootb finished or milled - Fig. 2 : Product 2 - Dollarone - Front smooth full grain leather Aniline dyeing to prepare leather 2 passes on UNIROLL FC roll coaterl M-023 roller 3 passes on UNIROLL FC roll coater/48L roller with water based mixture ; aniline dye/soft/filler/resin/very light quantity of pigment (this type of mixture must not cover the previous design application) Dollarone Famac embossing plate between second and third pass. 1 light pass on UNIROLL FC roll coaterl48L rouler with water base finish (nitroemulsion) Light ironing - Fig. 3 : Product 5 - Fianco Messicano - From very poor quality buffed leathers 1 pass on UNIROLL RC roll coater/20B rouler with water based acrylic resin/auxiliaries. 2 passes on UNIROLL RC roll coater with base coat (black pigmentfdlericaseinlmix resin) with very bigh solvent and water fastness. 3 passes on UNIROLL RP roll coater/M091 rouler with three different Pearl colours. Negative embossing plates Fianco Messicano Famac Solvent lacquer (two component polyurethane) applied on curtain coating machine. Light buffing on top of embossing. Drumming with water 40°C for 30 minutes. Setting out and air drying. Milling for 5-7 bours En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_cqsKhzmx1YQ9hVr9rE4QbwQbfKD1Crl/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35189 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
008097	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Split enhancement with Permair in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 6, N° 5 (08-09/1993)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 6, N° 5 (08-09/1993) . - p. 51-53 Titre : Split enhancement with Permair Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1993 Article en page(s) : p. 51-53 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chaussures -- Finition Films plastiques Laminage Perméabilité Polyuréthanes Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Permair was developed as a water vapour permeable, fully finished film, for lamination onto splits some twelve years ago. The manufacture of this foil combines the technology required to form a polyurethane film with cellular structure, with the skills needed, for the creation of a continuous film 15.4 mm thick. This film is then finished in a full range of fashion colours, textures and prints for lamination : a production partnership where makers Porvair provides the finish and the tanner provides die leather. Although 85 % of die use of this material is on splits, applications are also made onto trust bovine rides, goat and pigskins, which are prepared by buffing to give a level working surface for good adhesion. Note de contenu : - Benefits for shoe making - Fig. 1 : Laboratory application of adhesive to splitin preparation for lamination - Fig. 2 : Rampress operation after covering the split with Permair foil - Fig. 3 : Wide choice of continuous Permair film in stock - Fig. 4 : Magnified photographs show permeable structure of film En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nfaSJLg9pYemD_HqmOf0ITSPMBdwMRap/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35190 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
008097	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Trends in leather finishing / M. J. Osgood in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 6, N° 5 (08-09/1993)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 6, N° 5 (08-09/1993) . - p. 54 Titre : Trends in leather finishing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. J. Osgood, Auteur Année de publication : 1993 Article en page(s) : p. 54 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Cuirs et peaux de daims Nubuck Le nubuck1 est une croute de daim ou de cuir. Sa particularité vient du fait qu'il a subi un traitement particulier. En effet, sa surface a été meulée ou grattée au papier de verre très fin. C'est pourquoi il revêt cette apparence veloutée et sa douceur au toucher. Le ponçage de la fleur lui donne un aspect qui diffère largement du suède. Comme seule la surface externe du cuir est touchée par le traitement, il possède une meilleure résistance et conserve toute la finesse de son grain. Il est utilisé particulièrement dans l'industrie de l'ameublement pour la fabrication des fauteuils et canapés ainsi que par l'industrie de la chaussure. Il est souvent assez coûteux, car c'est une matière qui a une certaine noblesse. Son nom provient probablement de la langue anglaise, et de new buck qui signifie nouveau daim. Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : There are two main factors which dictated the way finishing methods are changing ; firstly, fashion demands and secondly, the introduction of legislation relating to health and safety. Current fashion affects not only colour according to the seasons, but also the appearance and texture of leather. Suede and nubuck leather has predominated over normal grain finishing for several years now. This has meant that usage of finishing chemicals has diminished significantly because suede and nubuck require no more than a light overspray of a fixative or handle modifier. Those grain leathers which are being produced include a wide variety of 'pull-up' and waxy or greasy effects on aniline full grain or corrected leather for shoe uppers. Clothing leather too has been affected by the desire for the natural appearance and feel of real leather. This type of finish requires light finishing only with little pigment, polishing ground coats and waxy feel agents. In summing up the effects of fashion, one can currently state that it is good business for dyestuff manufacturers but poor for resin and pigment suppliers. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XAY1a1POrigsNdC6RmbjZ17_3FmAkRDL/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35191 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
008097	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible