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New Zealand lamb pelts for clothing leather / Heinz Meyer in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 6, N° 6 (10-11/1993)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 6, N° 6 (10-11/1993) . - p. 45-50 Titre : New Zealand lamb pelts for clothing leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Heinz Meyer, Auteur Année de publication : 1993 Article en page(s) : p. 45-50 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Commerce Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Nouvelle Zélande Cuirs et peaux d'agneaux Exportations Importations Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : New Zealand lamb pelts are traditional byproduct of the meat industry. Whilst initially meat and wool were themost important components of the total value of the carcass, the skin, with its two components wool and pelt, has become progressively more important as a substantial contributor of income to the meat works in New Zealand. In the 1930s and early 40s New Zealand pelts were either converted into vegetable tanned shoe linings, or they were acid plumped and split to make vegetable tanned skivers from the grain and washable aldehyde tanned white and cream gloving leathers (doeskins), or chamois washleathers from the flesh splits. It was not until the early 1950s that clothing leather was developed as the potential major usage for the New Zealand lamb pelt. Note de contenu : - Development of clothing leathers, suede clothing - Grain clothing leathers - The New Zealand lamb ram material - Marketing - Technical - Summary : Historically and technically - Fig. 1 : Pelt press - Fig. 2 : Pelt grading - Fig. 3 : Paint table - Fig. 4 : Total number of pelts exported - 19 700 489 - Fig. 5 : Total number of pelts exported - 20 692 690 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ymt1B4R_tnPuEkTDOS19zoLJbKlLeoJ4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35177 [article]

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Dyeing of garment leathers in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 6, N° 6 (10-11/1993)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 6, N° 6 (10-11/1993) . - p. 52 Titre : Dyeing of garment leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1993 Article en page(s) : p. 52 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Teinture Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : For several years the consumer appetite for fashion apparel leathers has been growing steadily. Tanners are forced to produce an enormous range of different shades and types of leather in small lots within a very short time to satisfy retail demands. Of course, classical black dyed leathers are still in fashion, but the growing demand for coloured leathers, especially in very brilliant shades with high fastness levels, creates serious challenges for the tanners and the dye manufacturers. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pnkRlJ0_7TFOOhw2DHXvhGrfSypfjZYg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35178 [article]

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Garment leather testing / Joachim Lange in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 6, N° 6 (10-11/1993)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 6, N° 6 (10-11/1993) . - p. 54-56 Titre : Garment leather testing : Fastness requirements for nappa and suede garment leathers and common complaints Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Lange, Auteur Année de publication : 1993 Article en page(s) : p. 54-56 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuir -- Nettoyage Cuir nappa Cuirs et peaux de daims Essais de résilience Essais dynamiques Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Increasing demand for leather garments let the German leather industry and German leather garment industry trade associations to tackle the matter of quality standards as far back as 1978-80. Minimum performance values were tabulated by a leather garment trade group together with the West German Leather College (Westdeutsche Gerberschule). Initially these were consumer-requirement orientated with an evaluation of complaints in the areas of manufacture, use and care of leather garments taken into consideration. A review of technical feasibility in the manufacturing of the principal types of garment leathers and colours was employed in the formulation of the properties. Note de contenu : - Fundamental light fastness via the pickled pelt - wet blue route - Nappa comes into the picture - The 'nappa effect' - Cleaning the garment - The problems of washability - Table 1 : Quality requirement - Table 2 : Optional tests En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F4qQDLuIlpSxW97vb8_KyVVgoMREMjMp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35179 [article]

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Movement and handling in the beamhouse in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 6, N° 6 (10-11/1993)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 6, N° 6 (10-11/1993) . - p. 58-64 Titre : Movement and handling in the beamhouse Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1993 Article en page(s) : p. 58-64 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux Manutention Manutention -- Appareils et matériel Systèmes de transport Travail de rivière (cuir) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Considerable changes have taken place in the movement and handling of hides and skins in the beamhouse during the last decade. A number of alternatives for the transport of raw stock in the pretanned condition has been made available by machinery manufacturers, and these have been adapted by the tanner's instinctive sense of innovation to improve the flow of goods in the early leather making stages. These advances have been driven in many parts of the world by a combination of factors that have come together causing a watershed In effect the tanner has been forced to either become more effective in a number of areas concerning handling, or cease pretanning operations. The balance of these factors has differed in each tannery and changes are stille being imposed, but the problems being addressed are common. The most apparent problem can be found in those parts of the world where labour costs are high and it has become essential to reduce this component to remain competitive.This factor has also become more important, however, i lower cost areas where the use of labour has been comparatively excessive. Increasing expectations have forces up labour rates and made many forms of mechanisation more attractive. Directly associated with the use of labour in the deterioration in the quality of workmanship throughout the working day. Fatigue causes a gradual changes in all handling operations that are often difficult to quantify. In general, if a machine operation is labour intensive, driven by a continuous feed of hides as might be found with a splitting machine synchronised to a fleshing machine, then the standard of presentation will fall. If standard are held at a more consistent level, then either the rate of throughput will decrease or additional labour will be needed to maintain output. Note de contenu : - Efficient manufacture demands synchronised operations - Batch process meets on-line handling - The process vessel and the forklift truck - The influence of environmental pressures - Integrated flow : fleshing, splitting and loading - Integration demands uniformity - Three dimensional track conveying systems En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Kl-7dWlqmHEef3HLW0e_MN1xyHrYqLcI/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35180 [article]

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New perspective on wet processing in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 6, N° 6 (10-11/1993)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 6, N° 6 (10-11/1993) Titre : New perspective on wet processing Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1993 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie analytique Cuirs et peaux -- Dégraissage Pelanage Une des opérations préparant au tannage. La travail de préparation au tannage comprend six opérations essentielles : la trempe ou reverdissage, l'épilage, le pelanage, l'ébourrage, l'écharnage et le déchaulage. Le pelanage consiste en la préparation du derme à l'absorption du tanin par transformation du collagène. On écrit aussi planage, plainage. Phospholipides Triglycérides Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : It is well known that the penetration of chemicals into the hide or skin in leather making takes place mor rapidly from the flesh side, with relatively slow penetration through the grain layer. This effect is especially noticed with full chrome leathers if dye is required through the complete section. Although diffusionof dyes from the flesh side may be good, grain penetration can be relatively difficult,often leading to an undyed strip directly under the grain layer retanning materials and fatliquors are affected in the same way, and the effect can be noted by taking a series of cuttings to monitor chrome penetration during tanning and by observations made when deliming. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Phospholipids - Fig. 2 : Triglycerides - Table 1 : Hair burning liming process of domestic wet salted hides - Table 2 : Typical analysis of grease separated during the liming from fatty cow hides - Table 3 : Hair saving liming process of domestic wet salted hides En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_xRxj_c7i-ALG9I1q4MURosIPk3GVeIx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35181 [article]

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