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Multicenter study on measurement of the natural pH of the skin surface / Doerte Segger in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 10, N° 2 (04-05/2007)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 10, N° 2 (04-05/2007) . - p. 107-110 Titre : Multicenter study on measurement of the natural pH of the skin surface Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Doerte Segger, Auteur ; Uwe Aßmus, Auteur ; Michael Brock, Auteur ; Jessica Erasmy, Auteur ; P. Finkel, Auteur ; Andreas Fitzner, Auteur ; Helgard Heuss, Auteur ; Uta Kortemeier, Auteur ; Sven Munke, Auteur ; Thomas Rheinländer, Auteur ; H. Schmidt-Lewerkuhne, Auteur ; Werner Schneider, Auteur ; Gabriele Weser, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 107-110 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'pH  naturel  'Peau  humaine'  'Avant-bras' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Characterization of the skin's natural state is very important for understanding skin functions and describing disturbances of skin function. In the field of cosmetics and dermatologicals the natural pH of the skin surface plays an important role in the development of products with a skin neutral pH. In a multicenter study the natural pH of the skin surface (exception of underarm and genital areas), was to be measured. It was to be determined whether gender-specific differences in the pH occur. The skin surface pH was measured on the inside of the forearms in 222 volunteers (147 female, 75 male) using the skin pH meters of the respective institutes. The pH was measured in triplicate on adjacent areas 24 h after the last contact of the measuring site with water, topical applications and an intensive washing procedure. The values of the skin surface pH were 4.9 (arithmetic mean). The 95% interval was between 4.1 and 5.8. The pH on the forearm of the male volunteers was slightly lower than that of the females. The difference was statistically significant (p < 0.01; 4.8 to 5.0). The authors suggest that the GDCh recommendations for the claims »skin neutral pH«, »ideal pH« or »skin-friendly pH« should be revised and propose a pH range of 4.1 to 5.8 for the main body areas excluding the underarm and genital areas. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10419 [article]

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Changes in facial impressions by controlling the color of surface reflection from cosmetic foundations: appearance evaluation and formulation technique / Koji Minami in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 10, N° 2 (04-05/2007)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 10, N° 2 (04-05/2007) . - p. 111-117 Titre : Changes in facial impressions by controlling the color of surface reflection from cosmetic foundations: appearance evaluation and formulation technique Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Koji Minami, Auteur ; Tomomichi Kaneko, Auteur ; Tomoyuki Suzawa, Auteur ; Taisuke Aosaki, Auteur ; Noboru Nagatani, Auteur ; Kimihiko Hori, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 111-117 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Pigments  pearlescent'  'Gonio-spectrophotomètre'  Infographie  'Couleur  glacée'  'Aspect  du  visage'  'Analyse  factorielle' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : An attractive new series of foundations that vary in the glossy color originating in pearlescent pigments and are capable of changing facial impressions was developed. The color of the reflection of pearlescent pigments was attributed to additive mixing of interfering light. A brightly colored foundation film was obtained by mixing a sufficient amount of medium-sized pearlescent pigments into foundations. Five foundation films containing pearlescent pigments of different glossy colour (red, gold, green, blue and white) were prepared. Gonio-spectrophotometry was employed to determine the angle dependence of the reflected spectra, and the approximate optical characteristics of the films were derived. Using the approximations as input parameters in a made-up face simulation system, five images of a woman's facial skin with different glossy colors were processed by a computer graphics technique. Thirty-nine women assessed the facial impressions for glossy color using a semantic differential method with 69 descriptive words. Results of the subsequent statistical analysis showed that different glossy colors provide different impressions of facial appearance. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10420 [article]

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Effect of microalgal extracts on thioredoxin expression in human skin cells and their protection of skin / Pierre-Yves Morvan in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 10, N° 2 (04-05/2007)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 10, N° 2 (04-05/2007) . - p. 119-125 Titre : Effect of microalgal extracts on thioredoxin expression in human skin cells and their protection of skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pierre-Yves Morvan, Auteur ; Romuald Vallée, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 119-125 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Thiorédoxine  Anti-oxydant  Protection  Peau  Micro-algue Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin is the constant target of active forms of oxygen generated by UV radiation exposure. It needs to reinforce anti-oxidant defense mechanisms to protect itself against cell damage. Thioredoxin is a protein found extensively in animals, plants and marine bacteria. It protects cells against the cytotoxicity produced by free radicals. An increase in thioredoxin production could be thus an interesting way to improve skin cell protection. We studied thioredoxin expression in human skin cells by minichips, and the results were confirmed by RT-PCR. Protein expression was quantified by Western blot. Thioredoxin mRNA is expressed by human dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes. The thioredoxin protein was detected in both types of human skin cells and visualized in human reconstituted epidermis. Some stress-resistant micro-algae also express protective proteins. We tested the effect of two micro-algal extracts on the level of thioredoxin expression in human skin cells and on the protection against free radicals by measuring the inhibition of superoxide anion, on the protection against polluting agents by measuring cellular vitality and on the protection of Langerhans cells against UV exposure. By stimulating the thioredoxin level, the micro-algal extracts protect skin cells against several types of free radical generating systems. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10421 [article]

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Combing damage to hair cuticle structure / K. Ram Ramaprasad in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 10, N° 2 (04-05/2007)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 10, N° 2 (04-05/2007) . - p. 127-134 Titre : Combing damage to hair cuticle structure Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : K. Ram Ramaprasad, Auteur ; Sigrid B. Ruetsch, Auteur ; Hans-Dietrich Weigmann, Auteur ; Yash K. Kamath, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 127-134 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Goniophotomètre  Cheveu  Abrasion  Conditionneurs  Cuticule  'Dommage  du  peignage  sec  et  humide'  Peignage  'Dispersion  de  la  lumière' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Optical probing of hair fibres is an elegant, non-invasive method to monitor the fibre surface and its changes with various grooming protocols. In this paper, a goniophotometer with a He-Ne light source was used to study reflection profiles from single hair fibres in both the root-to-tip and tip-to-root orientations of the fibre. The calculated scale angle (the inclination of the cuticle to the fibre axis) was used as a monitor to study combing damage in hair to demonstrate the usefulness of the method. It was shown that progressive dry combing of hair leads to cuticle thinning or abrasive damage, and wet combing results in cuticle breaking or ablative damage. Further, the use of a conditioner active like a polyquaternium-10 largely mitigates both types of damage. These findings were supported by the results of a parallel scanning electron microscopic study. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Combing - Goniophotometry - Conditioner treatment of hair - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of dry-combing on scale angle - Effects of wet combing on scale - Effect of conditioner treatment on scale angle changes during combing Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10422 [article]

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