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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierDetermining suitability of leather for garments / S. Lange in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999)
Titre : Determining suitability of leather for garments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Lange, Auteur ; R. M. Laing, Auteur ; B. E. Niven, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 1-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Garment leather produced from ovine skins is used to manufacture high quality and high cost products. Little is known about which physical properties of this leather affect the garment construction processes and which physical properties are relevant to end-use performance. Test methods developed to assess suitability of woven materials for use in tailored garments were applied to lightweight garment leather from four breeds of sheep (male and female), but subjected to identical processing conditions. Specimens were cut from different locations and orientations on the skins. Location and orientation had a more significant effect on properties than the biological factors of breed and sex. Tanners can use these methods to develop leather with characteristics suitable for garment manufacturing processes. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=7850
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999) . - p. 1-7[article]Réservation
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Titre : High stability organic tanning using plant polyphenols. Part 2 : The mechanism of the vegetable tannin-oxazolidine tannage Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bi Shi, Auteur ; Youjie He, Auteur ; Haojun Fan, Auteur ; Shaoyu Zeng, Auteur ; Anthony D. Covington, Auteur ; Geoffrey E. Attenburrow, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 8-13 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Catechin was used as a model for condensed vegetable tanning, to elucidate the reaction between the flavonoid ring system and oxazolidines in the combination tannage. Using 1H-NMR, 13C-NMR and paper chromatography, it is shown that the crosslinking reaction occurs predominantly at the C-6 and C-8 of the phloroglucinol A ring of catechin. The crosslinker reacts at the C-5 of oxazolidine, by ring opening and reacting via the N-methylol intermediate. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=7851
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999) . - p. 8-13[article]Réservation
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Titre : Isolation of protein products from chromium-containing leather waste using two consecutive enzyme and purification of final chromium product : pilot plant studies Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Luisa F. Cabeza, Auteur ; Maryann M. Taylor, Auteur ; Eleanor M. Brown, Auteur ; William N. Marmer, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 14-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : In this paper, the pilot plant trials of a process to treat shavings to isolate protein products and purified chromium are presented. The process uses two enzymes, pepsin and alkaline protease, in two consecutive extractions with the isolation of a high quality gelatin and a hydrolysate. Chrome shavings (10 kgs) are pretreated with 0.1 % pepsin at pH 3-3.5 and at room temperature for 8 hours and gelatin is then extracted at pH 8 and 70°C ; hydrolysed protein is then isolated with 0.005 % alkaline protease at pH 8 and 70°C for 3 hours. The remaining solid, called chrome cake, is chemically treated to prepare it for recycling in the tanning industry. THe chemical and physical properties of the protein products and the chemical characteristics of the purified chromium are presented. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=7852
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999) . - p. 14-19[article]Réservation
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Titre : Study of the modification of emblic extract by aminomethylation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Jianzhong, Auteur ; Y. Zongsui, Auteur ; W. Jiangen, Auteur ; Y. Dongya, Auteur ; Y. Pinbao, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 20-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The modification conditions of the Emblic extract (extract of the fruit of the tree 'Phyllanthus Emblica') by the aminomethylation reaction have been studied by the official test (Shanghai Jiatong University) and comparative application tests. The results show that before the aminomethylation reaction the Emblic extract has to be treated with a protective agent in order that the modified products can be dissolved in water. The quantity of the formaldehyde is the key factor affecting the aminomethylation reaction. The modified Emblic extracts possess good penetration and soft side upper leather retanned with them is full, soft, elastic and possesses fine grain, good dyeability as well as high shrinkage temperature. Suitable protective agents are sodium sulphite and bisulphite (referred to in the text as X). Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=7853
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999) . - p. 20-24[article]Réservation
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Titre : The tanner's privilege - a historical review of the tanner's status in different societies Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : R. D. Higham, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 25-31 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Where concepts of personal defilement through contact with dead and decaying material are enshrined in theology, those who handle hides, skins and leather find themselves in situations of hereditary social disadvantage. This is particularly the case in India and Japan where there is sensitivity to imparted impurity that stems from religious beliefs.
The former oxious nature of some of the tanning processes relegated tanners to socially inferior status in many countries. In judaism, rabbinic regulations, from the 3rd century BC onwards, formulated to some degree the extent of their disadvantage. Reduction in prejudice and improved technology have greatly diminished this disadvantage.
Christian theology teaches that there should be no ostracism on account of occupation. The apostle Peter's stay at the house of Simon the tanner illustrates this (Acts 9:43 and 10:6). Indeed, clothing of skin is associated with God's solution to mankind's fundamental problem. The products of slaughtered animals covered man's nakedness (Genesis 3:21).Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=7854
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999) . - p. 25-31[article]Réservation
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Titre : Influence of the fat composition of greasy leathers on their bonding capacity Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Almela, Auteur ; Fernando Maldonado, Auteur ; E. Verdù, Auteur ; M. J. Gascon, Auteur ; A. Carter, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 32-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The manufacture of footwear with greasy leathers can be estimated at about 25% of the total production with bovine leathers present. This type of leather causes problems in upper-sole bonding during footwear manufacturing. Therefore, the objective of this work is to study the composition of the greasy leathers that have previously been selected as particularly problematic for bonding. An attempt is made to determine what factors (distribution and/or type of grease) most negatively influence the adhesion capability of these materials, as well as to look for alterntive ways to modify these factors during manufacturing of the leather. In accordance with the results obtained in the characterization, modifications will be proposed throughout the thickness of the leather, and in terms of the products which must be used.
The experimental controls and procedures used were the followin :
1) Quantitative determination of the greasy extract according to standard ISO 4048
2) Analysis of the greasy extract
. Determination of unsaponifiable fraction (paraffin waxes and mineral oils)
. This layer chromatography (TLC)
. High pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC)
. Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS)
3) Determination of the bonding capacity of the greasy leather according to standards ISO 11644 and BS-5131 Sec. 1.1.2.
Leather that contain extractable greasy matter below 15 % of the dry weight of the material, do not present bonding problems, idependently of the composition of the greasy extract. If the leathers contain more than 15 % of extractable greasy matter they can be problematic for bonding depending on the composition of the greasy extract. Analysis and subsequent tests have shown that wax or mineral oils of high molecular weight are more detrimental for bonding. It is possible to imporove the bonding results of the difficult greasy leathers by modifying the composition of the grease, e.g. replacing paraffin waxes of high molecular weight with others of low molecular weight.
Our main conclusions were :
1) Leathers with greasy extract levels above 15 % can be difficult in bonding.
2) Paraffin waxes and mineral oils with a high molecular weight are the most detrimental components for bonding. BOth products are easy to detect by thin layer chromatography aplied to the extract.
3) Alternative grease products have been proposed.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=7855
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999) . - p. 32-38[article]Réservation
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Titre : Beamhouse and tanning operations : process chemistry revisited Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : T. Ramasami, Auteur ; Jonnalagadda Raghava Rao, Auteur ; Chandra Babu Narasimhan Kannan, Auteur ; K. Parthasarathi, Auteur ; P. G. Rao, Auteur ; P. Saravanan, Auteur ; R. Gayathri, Auteur ; Kalarical Janardhanan Sreeram, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 39-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : Leather processing technologies are under critical review in recent times. Traditional methods in leather processing have involved the use of large amounts of water and chemical inputs. The general practice in tanneries has involved the use of nearly 35-40 litres of water per kilogram of leather processed. Processes have not been audited for utilisation of chemical inputs. In some cases, the utilisation levels of chemicals employed fall in the ranges of 40-75 % . Such non-optimum use of chemical and water input has led to problems in both cost effectiveness due to material loss and pollution from unused chemicals. It has become essential that the beamhouse and tanning processes are audited for their environmental loads. Whereas there is sufficient awareness in leather processing industries regarding the costs of compliance with national environmental regulatory norms, the potential benefits of cleaner production technologies with respect to cost saving are not fully understood. Further, with increasing inventory costs, audit of beamhouse and tanning processes is becoming crucial. Process time in leather making operations is influenced by several physico-chemical parameters. One of the major factors influencing process time of beamhouse and tanning operations in leather processing is the duration needed for diffusion of materials. A re-visit to the chemistry of beamhouse and tanning operations at this critical juncture is worthwhile.
An attempt has been made in this work to critically review the process chemistry and discuss possible improvement options. Some case studies are presented in this work where reduction of BOD and COD levels by 30-40 %, Total Dissolved Solids by 25-35 %, sulphide by 50-60 % and chromium by 98-99 % has been achieved under real field conditions through improved beamhouse and tanning operations.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=7856
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999) . - p. 39-45[article]Réservation
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| Code-barres | Cote | Support | Localisation | Section | Disponibilité |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 007023 | - | Périodique | Bibliothèque principale | Documentaires | Disponible |
