Design of sustainable lip gloss formulation with biosurfactants and silica particles / Constantina Eleni Drakontis in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 573-580 Titre : Design of sustainable lip gloss formulation with biosurfactants and silica particles Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Constantina Eleni Drakontis, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 573-580 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants Brillant à lèvres Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Maquillage Particules (matières) Rhamnolipides Silice La silice est la forme naturelle du dioxyde de silicium (SiO2) qui entre dans la composition de nombreux minéraux. La silice existe à l'état libre sous différentes formes cristallines ou amorphes et à l'état combiné dans les silicates, les groupes SiO2 étant alors liés à d'autres atomes (Al : Aluminium, Fe : Fer, Mg : Magnésium, Ca : Calcium, Na : Sodium, K : Potassium...). Les silicates sont les constituants principaux du manteau et de l'écorce terrestre. La silice libre est également très abondante dans la nature, sous forme de quartz, de calcédoine et de terre de diatomée. La silice représente 60,6 % de la masse de la croûte terrestre continentale. Sophorolipides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main objective of this study was to design a sustainable lip gloss from water-in-oil emulsions by understanding the rheology of combining biosurfactants (rhamnolipids and sophorolipids) with silica particles (Aerosil powders). The different parameters consisted of the silica particle diameter size, the concentration of the particles within the formulation, alongside the different types of biosurfactant and oils used. The experimental results could provide information on the formulation design of cosmetic emulsions such as lip products and foundations. - Methods : One parameter was varied each time, while the rest were kept constant in order to determine their effect on the viscosity profile of the formulations. A traditional mechanical rheometer was used in order to measure the bulk viscosity profiles of the different formulations, over a wide range of shear stress applied. - Results : The larger silica particle diameter size indicated an increase in the viscosity of the formulations, as yield stress was also generated for the specific diameter of 14 nm. It was also found that as the particle concentration increased, the viscosity increased as well. Rhamnolipids and sophorolipids indicated very similar behaviour, meaning that the biosurfactant acts as an emulsifier and does not impact the system’s rheological behaviour. The replacement of silicone oil with other natural oils was only successful with canola, and castor oil, since jojoba, squalene and mineral oil were not stabilized. - Conclusion : The lip gloss was designed by water-in-oil emulsions which were stabilized by biosurfactants and the rheology of the oil phase was enhanced by silica particles. The formulation rheology gave a stable emulsion, the shear-thinning effect ensured easy applicability, whereas the viscosity and elasticity provided nice hold on the lips. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Effect of silica particle diameter - Effect of silica particle concentration - Effect of biosurfactant - Effect of oil and pigments - Technique - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Stability - Effect of silica particle diameter - Effect of silica particle concentration - Effect of biosurfactant - Effect of oil - Performance of the lip gloss - Table 1 : Rhamnolipid formulations prepared for all three silica particles (Aerosil R 202, Aerosil R 812 and Aerosil R 812S) - Table 2 : Table 2 Sophorolipid formulations prepared for all three silica particles (Aerosil R 202, Aerosil R 812 and Aerosil R 812S) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12642 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vXu5cbVn34tRhjWqWOmJAcQb_kn8gPKB/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35423 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

Microrheological study of ternary surfactant-biosurfactant mixtures / L. Xu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 364-370 Titre : Microrheological study of ternary surfactant-biosurfactant mixtures Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : L. Xu, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 364-370 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants Cocamidopropyl bétaine Cosmétiques Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Laureth sulfate de sodium Rhamnolipides Rhéologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main objective of this paper is to understand the rheological impact of rhamnolipids biosurfactant (mono/dirhamnolipids mixture, CCB) on a common personal care mixed surfactants system: anionic sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and zwitterionic cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB). The ternary biosurfactant/surfactants mixtures were evaluated at three different formulation conditions. The experimental results can provide a formulation guideline when applying rhamnolipids in cosmetics and personal care products. - Methods : Traditional mechanical rheometer was used to measure bulk viscosity and lower frequency rheological behaviour of ternary surfactant mixtures. Diffusing wave spectroscopy (DWS) was utilized to access rheological responses at high frequency regime. Structural parameters such as contour length, entanglement length and persistence length of wormlike micelles in the anionic/zwitterionic/biosurfactant mixtures can be extracted from the rheological data gathered by DWS. - Results : Maxwellian type response was present in SLES/CAPB/CCB system which indicated the formation of wormlike micelle. Contour length of wormlike micelle formed by SLES/CAPB reduced from 445.8 to 88.37 nm with only 2 wt% addition of CCB. In the same system, viscosity decreased and shorter relaxation time were observed. Addition of sodium chloride built the viscosity of SLES/CAPB/CCB to an extent by screening charges between surfactant head groups. Highest viscosity of SLES/CAPB/CCB (10 wt%, 2wt% and 4wt% respectfully) was observed when sodium chloride concentration was at 4 wt%. In the same SLES/CAPB/CCB system, pH impacted the system's rheological response significantly. Due to the zwitterionic nature of CAPB, it became more cationic at lower pH while rhamnolipids became more nonionic. SLES still maintained its anionic nature at low pH and this promoted the interaction between CAPB and SLES. At lower pH, overall loss and storage modulus exhibited higher values while longer relaxation times were observed. Increase in micelles contour length under lower pH conditions were shown by the DWS data. - Conclusion : This preliminary rheological and microstructure study of the complex biosurfactant/surfactants ternary systems revealed the effect of formulation conditions on the mixtures rheological responses. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Effect of ratio - Effect of adding salt - Effect of pH - Technique - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of ratio - Effect of salt addition - Effect of pH DOI : 10.1111/ics.12549 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1422NrlPRaCZOPqsFflTeg0dk01UyNjNu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33115 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Rhamnolipid : an eco- and skin-friendly alternative to synthetic surfactant / Elza B. Marangoni in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021) . - p. 12-17 Titre : Rhamnolipid : an eco- and skin-friendly alternative to synthetic surfactant Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Elza B. Marangoni, Auteur ; Ticiane R. Rodrigues, Auteur ; Carla Porto, Auteur ; Rafaela T. R. Almeida, Auteur ; Maria I. Harris, Auteur ; Rita K. Oliveira, Auteur ; Dajara M. B. Moreira, Auteur ; Lucas G. S. Oliveira, Auteur ; Kaique J. Silva, Auteur ; Bruno Malito, Auteur ; Juliana S. Nakayama, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 12-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Biosurfactants Chimie analytique Concentration micellaire critique Cosmétiques -- Analyse Démaquillants Evaluation Ingrédients cosmétiques Rhamnolipides Tension superficielle Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The search for innovative and sustainable products that are less damaging to the skin is a matter of foremost importance in the cosmetics area. Chemical surfactants are widely used in cosmetic formulations, however, they have harmful effects, such as allergic reactions and skin irritations, therefore, it is evident that chemical surfactants need to be replaced by more sustainable compounds that present fewer or no negative effect on skin health. Biosurfactants have shown great potential, presenting advantages such as biodegradability, low toxicity, skin compatibility, increased protection and moisturizing effects. Rhamnolipids (RLs) are biosurfactants produced by some bacteria, mainly . Because of the presence of hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups in the same molecule, RLs present interesting emulsifying and surfactant properties, making them a suitable alternative to chemical surfactants in cosmetic formulations. In the current study, the properties of the biosurfactant produced by Apoena Biotech were investigated through surface tension tests, CMC, foam formation and stability, antioxidant potential and makeup removal. It was found that RL is a potential substitute or co-surfactant for chemical surfactants. In addition, its antioxidant activity makes it a multifunctional active that can provide benefits to the skin, besides its surfactant’s properties. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry analysis(UHPLC-MS/MS) - Evaluation of foam formation and stability - Measurement of surface tension and CMC determination - Antioxidant potential - Evaluation of RLs as an active for make-yp remover lotion - RESULTS : Structural elucidation of RLs - Measurement of surface tension and CMC determination - Antioxidant potential - Evaluation of RLs as active for make-up remover lotion - Tableau 1 : Different rhamnolipid structures detected using UHPLC-MS/MS and respective relative areas (%) - Tableau 2 : Evaluation of RL's ability to reduce surface tension under different conditions En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rk-vJaD3Mb4OMuiWbm3LSK6MRQFtD0Jj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37013 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
23084	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Study of glycerol residue as a carbon source for production of rhamnolipids pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC 10145) / S. D. Wadekar in TENSIDE, SURFACTANTS, DETERGENTS, Vol. 48, N° 1/2010 (01-02/2011)

[article]  inTENSIDE, SURFACTANTS, DETERGENTS > Vol. 48, N° 1/2010 (01-02/2011) . - p. 16-22 Titre : Study of glycerol residue as a carbon source for production of rhamnolipids pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC 10145) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. D. Wadekar, Auteur ; S. V. Patil, Auteur ; S. B. Kale, Auteur ; A. M. Lali, Auteur ; D. N. Bhowmick, Auteur ; Ashish Pratap Singh, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : p. 16-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Glycérine Le glycérol, ou glycérine, est un composé chimique de formule HOH2C–CHOH–CH2OH. C'est un liquide incolore, visqueux et inodore au goût sucré, utilisé dans de nombreuses compositions pharmaceutiques. Sa molécule possède trois hydroxyles correspondant à trois fonctions alcool responsables de sa solubilité dans l'eau et de sa nature hygroscopique. Un résidu glycérol constitue l'articulation centrale de tous les lipides de la classe des triglycérides et des phosphoglycérides. PROPRIETES PHYSIQUES : Le glycérol se présente sous la forme d'un liquide transparent, visqueux, incolore, inodore, faiblement toxique si ingéré (mais laxatif à haute dose), au goût sucré. Le glycérol peut se dissoudre dans les solvants polaires grâce à ses trois groupes hydroxyles. Il est miscible dans l'eau et l'éthanol ; et insoluble dans le benzène, le chloroforme et le tétrachlorométhane. Son affinité avec l'eau le rend également hygroscopique, et du glycérol mal conservé (hors dessicateur ou mal fermé) se dilue en absorbant l'humidité de l'air. - PROPRIETES CHIMIQUES : Dans les organismes vivants, le glycérol est un composant important des glycérides (graisses et huiles) et des phospholipides. Quand le corps utilise les graisses stockées comme source d'énergie, du glycérol et des acides gras sont libérés dans le sang. - DESHYDRATATION : La déshydratation du glycérol est faite à chaud, en présence d'hydrogénosulfite de potassium (KHSO3) et produit de l'acroléine - ESTERIFICATION : L'estérification du glycérol conduit à des (mono, di ou tri) glycérides. - AUTRES PROPRIETES : Le glycérol a un goût sucré de puissance moitié moindre que le saccharose, son pouvoir sucrant est de 0,56-0,64 à poids égal13. Le glycérol a des propriétés laxatives et diurétiques faibles. Comme d'autres composés chimiques, tels que le benzène, son indice de réfraction (1,47) est proche de celui du verre commun (~1,50), permettant de rendre "invisibles" des objets en verre qui y seraient plongés. Pseudomonas aeruginosa Rhamnolipides Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Rhamnolipid is the simplest class of biosurfactants with a well defined structure. The main obstacle in commercialization of biosurfactant especially rhamnolipids is the higher cost of the production. The production cost can be reduced by using economical carbon sources. Glycerol residue is available from glycerin distillation plant at low cost. It can be used as carbon source for rhamnolipid production using Pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC 10145). The optimum concentration of glycerol residue was 5% weight by volume (w/v) yielding maximum rhamnolipids at 2.50 g/L in the broth. From batch monitoring of polyglycerol and monoglycerol consumption, it appeared that polyglycerols were first hydrolyzed to monoglycerol in the broth itself and consumed as carbon source. The product had components similar to rhamnolipids synthesized on pure glycerol under the same conditions. This indicated the potential of glycerol residue as economic substrate for production of rhamnolipids. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10665 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
012778	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

---

1 (1 - 4 / 4)