Impact of multilamellar formulations on stratum corneum lipid organization and epidermal lipid barrier enhancement (Part II) / Joachim W. Fluhr in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 4 (08/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 4 (08/2024) . - p. 578-589 Titre : Impact of multilamellar formulations on stratum corneum lipid organization and epidermal lipid barrier enhancement (Part II) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim W. Fluhr, Auteur ; Razvigor Darlenski, Auteur ; Stephan Daehnhardt-Pfeiffer, Auteur ; Martin Albrecht, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 578-589 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Composés lamellaires Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Emollients Lécithine La phosphatidylcholine est plus connue sous le nom lécithine. Au sens le plus strict, la lécithine désigne uniquement les phosphatidylcholines c'est-à-dire un lipide formé à partir d'une choline, d'un phosphate, d'un glycérol et de deux acides gras (figure). Dans ce contexte, il serait plus juste de parler des lécithines, car il ne s'agit pas d'une seule molécule mais d'un groupe dont la composition en acide gras varie d'une molécule à l'autre. Ainsi, les lécithines vont adopter diverses couleurs selon leur composition : du jaune, pour la lécithine végétale, au brun, pour la lécithine de poisson. Le terme de lécithine est aussi utilisé par extension pour désigner l'ensemble des phospholipides extraits du vivant (par exemple le soja), dans la mesure où ils sont majoritairement constitués de phosphatidylcholine. Microscopie électronique en transmission Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - INTRODUCTION : The integrity of the stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the skin's barrier function, protecting against environmental stressors and minimizing transepidermal water loss. Advances in skincare formulations have introduced multilamellar systems designed to emulate the SC's lipid composition and organization. This study hypothesizes that the application of a multilamellar cream will significantly impact the SC's lipid content and lamellar structure, thereby enhancing the epidermal barrier. - METHODS : A saturated phosphatidylcholine-based multilamellar cream was applied to a cohort of adult subjects with very dry skin. Electron microscopy was utilized to analyse the micro-morphology of the cream and its integration into the lipid-depleted SC. Lipid analysis was conducted to quantify changes in the intercellular lipid matrix. - RESULTS : Transmission-electron microscopy (TEM) imaging demonstrated that the multilamellar cream possesses a structured arrangement comparable to the natural SC architecture. Short-term application revealed a time-dependent restoration of lipid bilayers, while a 14-day regimen showed a marked increase in lipid lamellae density and length within the SC. Lipid analysis indicated a significant increase in total lipid content, with notable enhancements in ceramide and free fatty acid levels, without altering cholesterol levels. Lipid ratio analysis further confirmed the rebalancing of the SC's lipid composition. - DISCUSSION : The multilamellar cream selectively increased specific lipids critical for barrier function, suggesting an action mechanism that aligns with the skin's natural regulatory processes. This selective augmentation indicates the potential of the formulation to not only restore but also enhance the epidermal barrier, with the maintenance of physiological lipid ratios suggesting compatibility with intrinsic repair mechanisms. - CONCLUSION : The study confirms that a multilamellar cream can significantly improve the SC's lipid composition and structural integrity, indicating enhanced barrier function. They are pivotal for skincare professionals, dermatologists, and product developers, enriching the understanding of multilamellar creams' benefits and applications in improving epidermal barrier function. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cream formulation - Ultrastructure analysis of cream vehicle - Ultrastructure analysis of treated skin - Lipid analysis by HPTLC - Study population - Statistics - RESULTS : Lipid morphology of the multilamellar formulation - Enhanced lipid bilayers in vivo by short-term application - Enhanced lipid bilayers in vivo in a 14-day application - Improved composition of critical barrier lipids in vivo in a 14-day application DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12971 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e6txw5orQ1eu7htXGVIdPivCYwQt5sbh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41356 [article]

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