Mechanical epilation exerts complex biological effects on human hair follicles and perifollicular skin: An ex vivo study approach / Marta Bertolini in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 175-198 Titre : Mechanical epilation exerts complex biological effects on human hair follicles and perifollicular skin: An ex vivo study approach Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marta Bertolini, Auteur ; Jennifer Gherardini, Auteur ; Jérémy Chéret, Auteur ; Majid Alam, Auteur ; Mathias Sulk, Auteur ; Natalia V. Botchkareva, Auteur ; Tamas Biro, Auteur ; Wolfgang Funk, Auteur ; Frieder Grieshaber, Auteur ; Ralf Paus, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 175-198 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance Cuir chevelu Epilage Evaluation Inflammation Peau -- analyse Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Electrical epilation of unwanted hair is a widely used hair removal method, but it is largely unknown how this affects the biology of human hair follicles (HF) and perifollicular skin. Here, we have begun to explore how mechanical epilation changes selected key biological read-out parameters ex vivo within and around the pilosebaceous unit. - Methods : Human full-thickness scalp skin samples were epilated ex vivo using an electro-mechanical device, organ-cultured for up to 6 days in serum-free, supplemented medium, and assessed at different time points by quantitative (immuno-)histomorphometry for selected relevant read-out parameters in epilated and sham-epilated control samples. - Results : Epilation removed most of the hair shafts, often together with fragments of the outer and inner root sheath and hair matrix. This was associated with persistent focal thinning of the HF basal membrane, decreased melanin content of the residual HF epithelium, and increased HF keratinocyte apoptosis, including in the bulge, yet without affecting the number of cytokeratin 15+ HF epithelial stem cells. Sebocyte apoptosis in the peripheral zone was increased, albeit without visibly altering sebum production. Epilation transiently perturbed HF immune privilege, and increased the expression of ICAM-1 in the bulge and bulb mesenchyme, and the number of perifollicular MHC class II+ cells as well as mast cells around the distal epithelium and promoted mast cell degranulation around the suprabulbar and bulbar area. Moreover, compared to controls, several key players of neurogenic skin inflammation, itch, and/or thermosensation (TRPV1, TRPA1, NGF, and NKR1) were differentially expressed in post-epilation skin. - Conclusion : These data generated in denervated, organ-cultured human scalp skin demonstrate that epilation-induced mechanical HF trauma elicits surprisingly complex biological responses. These may contribute to the delayed re-growth of thinner and lighter hair shafts post-epilation and temporary post-epilation discomfort. Our findings also provide pointers regarding the development of topically applicable agents that minimize undesirable sequelae of epilation. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Human samples - Human skin organ culture and ex vivo epilation - Ex vivo assessment of epilation - Histochemistry - Immunohistochemistry and immunofluorescence microscopy - Microscopy and quantitative (immuno-)histomorphometry - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Epilation ex vivo removes almost the entire hair shaft and induces morphological changes in the HF epithelium - Epilation reduces follicular melanin content and melanogenesis ex vivo - Epilation selectively promotes apoptosis in hair matrix and bulge epithelium but does not compromise the epithelial stem cell pool ex vivo - Epilation induces sebocyte apoptosis but does not appear to alter sebum production - Epilation ex vivo transiently perturbs HF immune privilege - Epilation induces perifollicular inflammation ex vivo - Epilation causes transient changes in the expression of key components of neurogenic skin inflammation, thermoregulation, itch, and/or pain in HFs ex vivo DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12923 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U7feLvo9Dv8VxiJ9cipcR_p0N6MbplFC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40906 [article]

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