Fragrance in dermocosmetic emulsions : From microstructure to skin application / Charlotte Dallay in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 1-23 Titre : Fragrance in dermocosmetic emulsions : From microstructure to skin application Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Charlotte Dallay, Auteur ; Catherine Malhiac, Auteur ; Céline Picard, Auteur ; Géraldine Savary, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 1-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques -- Texture Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Microstructures Parfums Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fragrance is added to almost all dermocosmetic emulsions, as it has been found to be a key driver in consumer choice and contributes to the perception of product performance. Fragrance is a complex mixture of odorant chemicals at different concentrations. When incorporated into a formulation, the individual fragrance chemicals partition between the emulsion phases depending on their physicochemical properties, which can impact the structure, stability, texture and odour of the final product. On the other hand, it is well known in the food industry how the composition and structure of food emulsion matrices influence the release of aroma chemicals. Fragranced dermocosmetic emulsions have been studied to a lesser extent but it is interesting to apply findings from the food domain since emulsion structure, composition and aroma compounds share common features. This review aims to give an overview of the literature dealing with the interactions between fragrance and dermocosmetic emulsions. The effects of fragrance on emulsion microstructure, stability and texture are highlighted and discussed. The effects of composition and structure of emulsion on the release of fragrance molecules are also presented. Finally, the interactions between skin and fragranced emulsions are addressed. Note de contenu : - DERMOCOSMETIC EMULSIONS AND FRAGRANCE : Dermocosmetic emulsions : Fragrance - EFFECT OF FRAGRANCE ON EMULSION STRUCTURE, STABILITY AND TEXTURE : Effect of fragrance on emulsion structure - Effect of fragrance on emulsion stability - Effect of fragrance on emulsion texture - EFFECT OF EMULSION MATRIX ON FRAGRANCE PROPERTIES : Chemical stability of fragrance in cosmetic formulations - Effect of matrix composition on fragrance properties - Effect of matrix structure on fragrance properties - Application on skin - Table 1 : Typical formulation of an O/W cosmetic emulsion, inspired from Salk - Table 2 : Composition of a feminine fragrance with a floral scent, from Fernandez and Antoniotti - Table 3 : Chemical structures, solubility parameters, octanol–water and air–water partition coefficients (log P and log Kaw respectively) of some fragrance molecules, from Herma - Table 4 : Physicochemical parameters of studied fragrance molecules - Table 5 : Summary of the effects of emulsion matrix ingredients on fragrance release DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12896 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JoRikUQ9ZQ9MOy8YiKHEVfxdiwmjfI_m/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40575 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

---

1 (1 - 1 / 1)