Creating a high-quality wool-oriented Turkish merino herd and investigation of mechanical and dyeability properties of fabrics produced from Turkish merino in comparison with Australian merino / Riza Atav in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 139, N° 6 (12/2023)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 139, N° 6 (12/2023) . - p. 689-702 Titre : Creating a high-quality wool-oriented Turkish merino herd and investigation of mechanical and dyeability properties of fabrics produced from Turkish merino in comparison with Australian merino Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Riza Atav, Auteur ; Bürhan Bugdayci, Auteur ; Ayse Sen, Auteur ; Ugur Ergünay, Auteur ; Pelin Gürkan Ünal, Auteur ; Emel Özkan Ünal, Auteur ; Gökmen Karagöz, Auteur ; Raziye Isik, Auteur ; M. Ihsan Soysal, Auteur ; Muhittin Özder, Auteur ; Sezen Arat, Auteur ; Büsra Eroğlu, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 689-702 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Boulochage Colorimétrie Feutrage Fibres textiles -- Propriétés mécaniques Laine de mouton Mérinos Le mérinos est une race ovine originaire d'Espagne élevée principalement pour sa laine. - Production lainière : La race des mérinos est championne du monde de la production lainière[réf. souhaitée]. La laine de mérinos est surtout recherchée pour sa finesse (exprimée en microns) et sa blancheur, laquelle provient d'un fastidieux processus de croisements de moutons à travers les siècles, faisant des moutons mérinos une race dite « pure ». En effet, contrairement à la croyance populaire, la laine n'est pas toujours blanche, mais se matérialise plutôt en une déclinaison de couleurs variant entre le crème, le gris, le beige, le brun et le noir7,8. De nos jours, 90 % de la laine mérinos utilisée par l'industrie de la mode vient d'Australie. - Caractéristiques : La qualité de la laine est appréciée via la finesse (diamètre de la fibre mesurée en micron µm, critère majoritaire) et la longueur mesurée en millimètre (de 65 à 100 mm). La laine est catégorisée en : épaisse (23–24.5 µm), médium (19.6–22.9 µm), fine (18.6–19.5 µm), superfine (15–18.5 µm) et ultrafine (11.5–15 µm). Cette finesse (les autres laines de mouton ont un diamètre de fibre moyen de 37 µm) fait que les tenues en laine mérinos sont ultra légères, sèchent très vite, isolent mieux, ne grattent pas et sont infroissables. (Wikipedia) Photostabilité Résistance à l'abrasion Résistance à la traction Statistique Textiles et tissus -- Analyse Textiles et tissus -- Lavage Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Today, the need for quality wool suitable for worsted fabric production in the world is mainly met by Australian merino wool. In Turkey, which has a significant sheep population, in addition to domestic breeds, approximately 10% of the total sheep population (around four million head) is composed of merino cross breeds. However, the fleece quality is far from meeting Australian merino wool standards. Therefore, the aim of this study is to ensure a merino herd with high-quality wool in Turkey. For this aim, by carrying out field studies in the Thrace region of Turkey where Turkish Merino sheep are widely bred, sheep with fleece that can meet the demands of the worsted industry were determined. As a result of field studies in which thousands of sheep were examined, it was determined that 43 female and 10 male sheep had fleece that would meet these standards. Then the breeders of the sheep, which had quality fleece, were persuaded and these sheep were purchased, and “Turkey's wool-oriented Turkish (Karacabey) Merino Herd” consisting of 30 sheep and three rams was formed in the farm of Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University. In the second part of this study, a 100% wool fabric produced by using Australian merino was taken as a reference and it was aimed to produce the same fabric from Turkish merino wool. For this aim, the wool-oriented Turkish Merino herd, which was bred at the university farm for 1 year, was shorn in May 2022. Then, Turkish and Australian merino wools were first converted into worsted yarn and then into woven fabric. The results of mechanical (tensile strength, pilling, abrasion resistance, felting shrinkage, Hofmann dimensional change, bending stiffness) and dyeability (dye-uptake, CIE L*a*b* and colour yield (K/S) values; washing, rubbing and light fastness values) properties of fabrics produced from Turkish and Australian merino wool is presented. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Investigation of fibre properties - Investigation of fabric properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Results related to fibre properties - Results related to fabric properties - Table 1 : Age and sex distribution of sheep from which wool samples were taken - Table 2 : Factors and levels used in the statistical evaluation of fibre fineness - Table 3 : Test results of fabrics made from Turkish merino and Australian merino wool - Table 4 : Colour measurement results of fabrics produced from Turkish merino and Australian merino wool - Table 5 : Washing, rubbing and light fastness test results of dyed fabrics DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12680 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12680 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40120 [article]

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