Extension and recovery of cervine garment leather / S. E. Gore in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 88, N° 2 (03-04/2004)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 88, N° 2 (03-04/2004) . - p. 56-62 Titre : Extension and recovery of cervine garment leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. E. Gore, Auteur ; R. M. Laing, Auteur ; D. J. Carr, Auteur ; B. E. Niven, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 56-62 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cuirs et peaux de cervidés Statistique Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The objective of this study was to examine the extension and recovery behaviour of cervine garment leather. Cervine leather was more extensible than both ovine leather and conventional woven textiles for outerwear. The load and work required for a given extension decreased and stiffness increased during uniaxial and multiaxial extension/recovery cycling. The number of cycles and the extension level affected load, work and stiffness of the first four cycles only (in particular the first cycle). The number of cycles, the direction, and the level of extension did not greatly affect recovery, most of which occurred within 24 hours. For a given extension, the load, work, and stiffness were greater for specimens cut at 0° to the approximate backbone line than those cut at 90°. All differences attributable to direction were small, sometimes not statistically significant, and thus unlikely to affect garment manufacture, or wear. The minimal observed changes after extended periods of uniaxial cyclic testing suggests cervine leather to be a reasonably stable material. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL METHODS : Source of leather - Experimental design and procedures - Data collection and statistical analysis - RESULTS : Extension/recovery cycling and rate of change - Slopes - Work - Recovery - Appearance - DISCUSSION : Experimental methods - Cervine leather as a garment material - - Table 1 : Significance of differences in variables En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19cFg-wQVLnzV0BJXXtMuMMiheQkn-YGk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39642 [article]

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Laminated cervine leather for apparel / C. M. Bruce in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 89, N° 1 (01-02/2005)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 89, N° 1 (01-02/2005) . - p. 1-8 Titre : Laminated cervine leather for apparel Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. M. Bruce, Auteur ; R. M. Laing, Auteur ; B. E. Niven, Auteur ; D. J. Carr, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 1-8 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques Cuirs et peaux de cervidés Plan d'expérience Relaxation des contraintes Résistance à la déchirure Statistique Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The objective of this study was to identify changes in stress-relaxation and tear strength of New Zealand cervine leather after shaving to various thicknesses and then laminating it to an extensible fabric. The load and work required to extend laminated cervine leather (multi-axially) to a specified extension limit was greater and less variable than if lamination had not been carried out. A higher stress-relaxation during cycling was evident with the composite material, although the rate of change was no different to that for non-laminated leather. The difference in work between the initial cycle and subsequent cycles was greater with laminated leather. Reducing the thickness of the leather resulted in a greater deformation height (bagging) and a lower load and work in multiaxial extension, stress-relaxation, tear initiation, and tear strength. Deformation was reduced by laminating the leather only in the case of the thinnest leather. Laminating cervine leather partially reversed the adverse effects of thickness reduction and decreased the differences in stress-relaxation observed amongst the three thicknesses of leather. The textured weft threads of the fabric increased the tearing strength of the composite material in the 0° direction more than in the other directions. The directional properties of the fabric may have a greater effect on garment performance than the location or orientation of the leather as cut from a hide. Note de contenu : - TEST METHODS : Materials - Experimental designs and procedures - Data collection and statistical analysis - Stress-relaxation - Work during stress-relaxation cycling - The rate of change during cycling - Deformation height - Tear strength - DISCUSSION : Effects of reducing thickness - Laminated cervine leather as a garment material - Table 1 : Experimental design - Table 2 : Physical properties En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1--4_4QCYIdQc2Hx3AqAv8cIwajTnQTO-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39607 [article]

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