Efficiency of emulsifier-free emulsions in delivering caffeine and a-tocopherol to human skin / Hichem Kichou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 329-344 Titre : Efficiency of emulsifier-free emulsions in delivering caffeine and a-tocopherol to human skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hichem Kichou, Auteur ; Amanda C. Caritá, Auteur ; Guillaume Gillet, Auteur ; Lahcen Bougassaa, Auteur ; Xavier Perse, Auteur ; Martin Soucé, Auteur ; Laurianne Gressin, Auteur ; Igor Chourpa, Auteur ; Franck Bonnier, Auteur ; Emilie Munnier, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 329-344 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caféine Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Stabilité Emulsions sans émulsifiants Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perméation pH -- Mesure Rhéologie Taille des gouttelettes Ultrasons Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Increasing consumer demand for natural and environmentally friendly products is driving the cosmetic industry to seek greener and safer processes. High-frequency ultrasound technology (HFUT) stabilizes emulsions without adding emulsifying surfactants (ES). In this work, the formulation characteristics of an HFUT-treated emulsion and a Reference emulsion were compared for both caffeine and α-tocopherol. - Methods : A comparison was made between ES-free emulsions and the Reference emulsions based on droplet size, viscosity, pH and rheology behaviour for both active cosmetic ingredients. The permeation of caffeine and the skin retention of α -tocopherol were studied in vitro using Franz diffusion cells on human skin biopsies, considered the gold standard for permeation assays. - Results : The formulations developed were stable and showed suitable droplet size distribution. In the case of ES-free emulsions, the average droplet size was inferior to 1.5 μm regardless of the polarity of the active. All formulations presented a shear-thinning pseudoplastic behaviour, an attribute usually desired for cosmetic products. The skin permeation studies showed that in the case of caffeine (model hydrophilic molecule), the ES-free emulsion presented a delivery capacity similar to that of the Reference emulsion. However, for α-tocopherol (highly lipophilic model molecule), differences were observed in the distribution of the active in the stratum corneum with an advantage for the Reference emulsion, probably due to the impact of surfactants on the SC lipids. - Conclusion : This work demonstrates that HFUT is a reliable tool that is able to prepare stable ES-free emulsions loaded with hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients. Skin permeation studies confirm that the emulsions produced by HFUT promote the delivery of the actives to the human skin. In the case of α-tocopherol, the delivery efficiency was lower than with the Reference emulsion, especially in the SC layers, due to the absence of surfactants. Nevertheless, the ES-free emulsion still represents a good compromise between efficacy and the need for green cosmetics in the market. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - ES-free emulsion preparation by HFUT - Reference emulsion preparation with ES - Droplets size measurement - Viscosity and pH measurement - Rheology measurements - Human skin biopsies - Human skin permeation experiments - Caffeine permeation experiment - α-Tocopherol penetration experiment - HPLC analysis - Data analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Rheological behaviour - Emulsion stability - Caffeine permeation - α-Tocopherol SC penetration - Table 1 : Composition (wt %) of tested ES-free emulsions - Table 2 : Average particle size, D10, D50 and D90 for the caffeine and α-tocopherol ES-free emulsions - Table 3 : Values of viscosity (in Pa.s) collected at different shear rates (in s−1) from the shear flow test for the four studied emulsions - Table 4 : Viscosity, pH and average size of the droplets after 3 days (D3) and one month of storage for the caffeine and α-tocopherol ES-free emulsions and Reference emulsions - Table 5 : Steady-state fluxes (Jss), lag times (tlag) and permeability coefficients (kp) obtained from cumulative amount profiles of caffeine from ES-free and Reference emulsion through human skin samples from three donors DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12837 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WalVHhYdSvayc4H8aer26tc2DlSBwEIK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39564 [article]

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