Enhanced piroctone olamine retention from shampoo for superior anti-dandruff efficacy / Eric S. Johnson in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 236-245 Titre : Enhanced piroctone olamine retention from shampoo for superior anti-dandruff efficacy Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Eric S. Johnson, Auteur ; Debora W. Chang, Auteur ; James R. Schwartz, Auteur ; Ulrike Blume-Peytavi, Auteur ; James P. Henry, Auteur ; Tamara L. Caterino, Auteur ; Allison L. Talley, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 236-245 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antifongiques Antipelliculaires Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu Dermatite sébhorrhéique Desquamation Etudes cliniques Pellicules (dermatologie) Piroctone olamine Produits capillaires shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Dandruff is a pervasive chronic condition which negatively impacts quality of life. Effective treatment requires efficient delivery of scalp benefit agents that control commensal scalp Malassezia levels. Delivery of benefit agents from shampoos requires balancing many technical parameters to achieve the desired outcome without sacrificing secondary parameters, such as cosmetic attributes. - Objectives : To develop formulation technologies that increase the shampoo delivery efficiency of the scalp benefit agent piroctone olamine (PO). Increased delivery should result in increased anti-dandruff efficacy. - Methods : Micellar Stability and Association parameters were quantified via dynamic surface tension and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) diffusion parameters, respectively. PO delivery has been assessed in vivo both on the scalp surface and follicular infindibula using extraction procedures and analytical analysis. Clinical anti-dandruff efficacy was assessed for an advanced delivery technology prototype in comparison to standard delivery technology. - Results : Shampoo prototypes have been developed that increase the delivery efficiency of PO. Both surfactant and polymer coacervate-based approaches have been developed. Decreased micellar stability results in weaker association between PO and micelles, resulting in more efficient PO retention on the scalp surface and delivery to the infundibula. Increased charge density of cationic polymers optimizes coacervation enabling improved PO delivery as well. Increased PO delivery has been shown clinically to result in higher anti-dandruff efficacy as measured by both visible flakes and underlying biomarkers. - Conclusion : Increased efficiency PO delivery shampoos have been developed by optimization of both surfactant and coacervate parameters. The increased deposition efficiency results in significantly more products with significantly greater anti-dandruff efficacy. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Shampoo products and compositions evaluated - Measurement of Micellar Stability parameter (θ) - Measurement of Micellar Association parameter (Ds/Da) - Measurement of scalp surface retention of piroctone olamine in vivo - Measurement of infundibular delivery of piroctone olamine in vivo - Clinical efficacy study design - Assessment of flaking severity - Assessment of histamine and ratio of IL1ra/IL-1α from scalp surface - Test products - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Micellar Stability parameter evaluations - Micellar Association parameter (Ds/Da) - Scalp surface retention of piroctone olamine in vivo - Infundibular delivery of piroctone olamine in vivo - Evaluation of Anti-Dandruff clinical efficacy - Table 1 : Summary of shampoo compositions evaluated - Table 2 : Summary of Micellar Stability parameter and Micellar Association parameter data - Table 3 : Summary of Micellar Association data and PO retention - Table 4 : Summary of piroctone olamine scalp retention data - Table 5 : Summary of anti-dandruff clinical evaluation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12835 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15x6UeCPskFUzXhclO36lFCI1b11GE8SC/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39173 [article]

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