Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol / Kieran T. Mellody in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 625-635 Titre : Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Kieran T. Mellody, Auteur ; Eleanor J. Bradley, Auteur ; Bezaleel Mambwe, Auteur ; Lindsay F. Cotterell, Auteur ; Orsolya Kiss, Auteur ; Poonam Halai, Auteur ; Zeena Loftus, Auteur ; Mike Bell, Auteur ; Tamara W. Griffiths, Auteur ; Christopher E. M. Griffiths, Auteur ; Rachel E. B. Watson, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 625-635 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anatomie Antiâge Barrière cutanée Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peau noire -- Soins et hygiène Photodétérioration Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - BACKGROUND : Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation. - OBJECTIVE : To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study. - METHODS : For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5 ; age range 66–84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3 % or 1 % retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly. - RESULTS : Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3 % retinol and 1 % retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01) ; other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1 % retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ2(1) = 23.97 ; p < 0.001). - CONCLUSIONS : This study suggests that 1 % and 0.3 % retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3 % retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1 % retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application. Note de contenu : - Tissue sample acquisition and preparation - Biomarker detection and imaging - Image analysis - Statistical analysis - Consumer tolerance study - Tolerance profile study analysis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12799 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C2tBcYfsMW37WaPs8Q-k0HjuTCahQAuk/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38387 [article]

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