Targeting inflammation and pro-resolving mediators with Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp condition / Romain Duroux in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 614-624 Titre : Targeting inflammation and pro-resolving mediators with Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp condition Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Romain Duroux, Auteur ; Vincent Baillif, Auteur ; Fabien Havas, Auteur ; Morgane Farge, Auteur ; Alban Maurin, Auteur ; Thierry Suère, Auteur ; Emeline VanGoethem, Auteur ; Joan Attia, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 614-624 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antioxydants Barrière cutanée Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : A critical and often-overlooked factor that may give rise to dandruff and oily hair is the intrinsic quality of the scalp stratum corneum (SC), which is often unbalanced and susceptible to external aggressions. Addressing the inflammation element of unhealthy scalp plays an important role in promoting healthy-looking and feeling hair. Although specialized pro-resolving lipid mediators (SPMs) have been studied in the skin to end the inflammation process and promote tissue regeneration, no studies have been provided in the scalp. This study aims to investigate SPMs expression and its role in improving scalp integrity and consequently improving hair appearance using an Anetholea anisita extract. - METHODS : The effect of Anetholea anisita extract was investigated in vitro on human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC), evaluating its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties by fluorescence staining and ELISA, respectively. Ex vivo measurement of the volume of human scalp sebaceous glands was performed using X-ray microtomography (micro-CT). The extract was then clinically tested on a population of dandruff sufferers presenting oily hair. Volunteers' sebum was collected on the scalp and analysed by LC–MS/MS or ELISA to identify SPMs and pro-inflammatory markers. Scalp integrity was assessed by measuring the pH and the TEWL. Sebum production, dandruff and hair gloss were also evaluated. - RESULTS : Anetholea anisita extract reduced IL-8 and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in HFDPC. Interestingly, this extract also decreased the volume of sebaceous glands as revealed by micro-CT. This result was confirmed in vivo by a decrease in sebum production in volunteers. Moreover, SPMs were analysed and detected in the scalp for the first time. An increase in Lipoxin B4 (LxB4) and Resolvin D1 and D2 (RvD1 and RvD2) was observed after Anetholea anisita treatment as well as decrease in pro-inflammatory sebum mediators expression such as PGE2, LTB4 and IL-8. Consequently, the scalp barrier was reinforced as observed through improved transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin surface pH, reducing dandruff and improving hair health. - CONCLUSION : The present results suggest the potential of cosmetic applications of Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp health by targeting inflammation pathways to decrease dandruff and improve hair condition. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - In vitro cell studies - Ex vivo study - Clinical trial - RESULTS : Anetholea anisita extract decreases oxidative stress and inflammation in HFDPC cultures - Anetholea anisita extract decreases the volume of sebaceous glands from scalp - Anetholea anisita extract clinically decreases pro-inflammatory markers and increases SPMs in scalp sebum - Anetholea anisita extract clinically improves scalp condition and decreases dandruff - Table 1 : Clinical trial formulations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12813 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w3tBFMwD4mmgtIGsOpjfcLJw4_DrCVt1/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38386 [article]

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