Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach / Anika Bluemke in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 377-393 Titre : Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Anika Bluemke, Auteur ; Annika P. Ring, Auteur ; Jeannine Immeyer, Auteur ; Anke Hoff, Auteur ; Tanya Eisenberg, Auteur ; Wolfram Gerwat, Auteur ; Franziska Meyer, Auteur ; Sabrina Breitkreutz, Auteur ; Lina M. Klinger, Auteur ; Johanna M. Brandner, Auteur ; Marietta Seifert, Auteur ; Doerte Segger, Auteur ; Frank Rippke, Auteur ; Dorothea Schweiger, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 377-393 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Bakuchiol Le Bakuchiol est un méroterpène (composé chimique à structure terpénoïde partielle) de la classe des terpénophénols. On le trouve dans Psoralea corylifolia et dans Otholobium pubescens. (wikipedia) Dermo-cosmétologie Ingrédients cosmétiques Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Skin ageing is a multifactorial process involving formation of reactive oxygen species, consecutive inflammation with reduced epidermal and dermal cell viability and resulting damage to the extracellular matrix. Effective dermocosmetic treatment modalities should ideally address these hallmarks in a holistic approach. Here, we determined the corresponding activity profile of bakuchiol, a plant-derived meroterpene, in an array of in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies and compared it to retinol, currently considered as gold standard in topical antiageing cosmetics. - Methods : The antioxidative capacity and power of bakuchiol and retinol were analysed by measuring 2,2′-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) reduction via its absorption decay and electron spin resonance spectroscopy, respectively. Effects on prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), macrophage migration inhibitory factor (MIF), fibroblast growth factor 7 (FGF7), collagen type I and VII (COL1A1, COL7A1), fibronectin (FN) levels as well as the metabolization of water-soluble tetrazolium 1 (WST-1) were determined in human dermal fibroblasts. Epidermal regeneration was assessed utilizing an in vitro wound healing model. FN protein levels were analysed ex vivo after treatment with a formulation containing bakuchiol, retinol or vehicle using suction blister fluid. Skin condition improvement was determined in vivo in a split-face comparison study after application of bakuchiol or vehicle. - Results : In contrast to retinol, bakuchiol demonstrated high antioxidative efficacy. Levels of PGE2 and MIF were significantly decreased by both bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol but not retinol significantly increased FGF7 protein levels. WST-1 metabolization levels were significantly augmented by bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol and retinol application led to a significant augmentation of COL1A1, COL7A1 and FN protein levels. Wounds supplemented with bakuchiol but not retinol displayed a significant increase in epidermis regeneration. Clinically, areas treated with a bakuchiol-containing formulation showed a statistically significant increase in FN protein values after a 4-week application compared to untreated areas and areas treated with vehicle. - Conclusion : These data provide evidence for the multidirectional efficacy of bakuchiol against cellular hallmarks of skin ageing. Its activity profile shares some common features with retinol but demonstrates several hitherto unknown biopositive effects in our studies, namely stimulation of the critical extracellular matrix component FN, and accelerated epidermal regeneration and wound healing. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test materials - In vitro studies - In vivo studies I and II - Study I : Ex vivo determination of FN protein levels - Study II : In vivo determination of skin condition improvement - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : In vitro studies - Study I: Ex vivo determination of FN protein levels - Study II : In vivo determination of skin condition improvement In vivo studies : Tolerability DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12784 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OjIAr7zsVF9vrJc0smRlFvAEIpWDsK46/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38137 [article]

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