Efficiency of emulsifier-free emulsions in delivering caffeine and a-tocopherol to human skin / Hichem Kichou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 329-344 Titre : Efficiency of emulsifier-free emulsions in delivering caffeine and a-tocopherol to human skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hichem Kichou, Auteur ; Amanda C. Caritá, Auteur ; Guillaume Gillet, Auteur ; Lahcen Bougassaa, Auteur ; Xavier Perse, Auteur ; Martin Soucé, Auteur ; Laurianne Gressin, Auteur ; Igor Chourpa, Auteur ; Franck Bonnier, Auteur ; Emilie Munnier, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 329-344 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caféine Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Stabilité Emulsions sans émulsifiants Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perméation pH -- Mesure Rhéologie Taille des gouttelettes Ultrasons Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Increasing consumer demand for natural and environmentally friendly products is driving the cosmetic industry to seek greener and safer processes. High-frequency ultrasound technology (HFUT) stabilizes emulsions without adding emulsifying surfactants (ES). In this work, the formulation characteristics of an HFUT-treated emulsion and a Reference emulsion were compared for both caffeine and α-tocopherol. - Methods : A comparison was made between ES-free emulsions and the Reference emulsions based on droplet size, viscosity, pH and rheology behaviour for both active cosmetic ingredients. The permeation of caffeine and the skin retention of α -tocopherol were studied in vitro using Franz diffusion cells on human skin biopsies, considered the gold standard for permeation assays. - Results : The formulations developed were stable and showed suitable droplet size distribution. In the case of ES-free emulsions, the average droplet size was inferior to 1.5 μm regardless of the polarity of the active. All formulations presented a shear-thinning pseudoplastic behaviour, an attribute usually desired for cosmetic products. The skin permeation studies showed that in the case of caffeine (model hydrophilic molecule), the ES-free emulsion presented a delivery capacity similar to that of the Reference emulsion. However, for α-tocopherol (highly lipophilic model molecule), differences were observed in the distribution of the active in the stratum corneum with an advantage for the Reference emulsion, probably due to the impact of surfactants on the SC lipids. - Conclusion : This work demonstrates that HFUT is a reliable tool that is able to prepare stable ES-free emulsions loaded with hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients. Skin permeation studies confirm that the emulsions produced by HFUT promote the delivery of the actives to the human skin. In the case of α-tocopherol, the delivery efficiency was lower than with the Reference emulsion, especially in the SC layers, due to the absence of surfactants. Nevertheless, the ES-free emulsion still represents a good compromise between efficacy and the need for green cosmetics in the market. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - ES-free emulsion preparation by HFUT - Reference emulsion preparation with ES - Droplets size measurement - Viscosity and pH measurement - Rheology measurements - Human skin biopsies - Human skin permeation experiments - Caffeine permeation experiment - α-Tocopherol penetration experiment - HPLC analysis - Data analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Rheological behaviour - Emulsion stability - Caffeine permeation - α-Tocopherol SC penetration - Table 1 : Composition (wt %) of tested ES-free emulsions - Table 2 : Average particle size, D10, D50 and D90 for the caffeine and α-tocopherol ES-free emulsions - Table 3 : Values of viscosity (in Pa.s) collected at different shear rates (in s−1) from the shear flow test for the four studied emulsions - Table 4 : Viscosity, pH and average size of the droplets after 3 days (D3) and one month of storage for the caffeine and α-tocopherol ES-free emulsions and Reference emulsions - Table 5 : Steady-state fluxes (Jss), lag times (tlag) and permeability coefficients (kp) obtained from cumulative amount profiles of caffeine from ES-free and Reference emulsion through human skin samples from three donors DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12837 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WalVHhYdSvayc4H8aer26tc2DlSBwEIK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39564 [article]

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Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin / Hichem Kichou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 262-270 Titre : Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hichem Kichou, Auteur ; Yuri Dancik, Auteur ; Christophe Eklouh-Molinier, Auteur ; Nicolas Huang, Auteur ; Martin Soucé, Auteur ; Laurianne Gressin, Auteur ; Guillaume Gillet, Auteur ; Igor Chourpa, Auteur ; Emilie Munnier, Auteur ; Franck Bonnier, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 262-270 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Emulsions sans émulsifiants Epiderme Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau reconstruite Pénétration cutanée Ultrasons Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High-frequency ultrasonication technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilization of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients, such as emulsifying surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesized by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions. - Methods : The pH, droplet size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared. - Results : The ES-free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2-fold lower average droplet size and over 3-fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady-state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20%–30% only. - Conclusion : This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients-wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ingredients - Preparation of samples - Viscosity and pH measurement - Particle size measurement - Reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) - Skin permeation experiments - High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis - Data analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Characterization of samples - In vitro caffeine permeation - Table 1 : Composition (wt %) of the caffeine formulations studied - Table 2 : Viscosity, pH, average particle size, D10, D50 and D90 for the ES-free emulsion and the reference emulsion - Table 3 : Steady-state fluxes (Jss), lag times (tlag) and permeability coefficients (kp) obtained from cumulative amount profiles of caffeine through EpiSkin® RHE samples DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12772 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lFjiRKOEITkgH-9evR1GnTdiR9H6BvRV/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37727 [article]

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Study and optimization of oil-in-water emulsions formulated by low- and high-frequency ultrasounds / Louise Perrin in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 198-213 Titre : Study and optimization of oil-in-water emulsions formulated by low- and high-frequency ultrasounds Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Louise Perrin, Auteur ; Sylvie Desobry-Banon, Auteur ; Guillaume Gillet, Auteur ; Stephane Desobry, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 198-213 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Ondes décamétriques Plan d'expérience Ultrasons Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A combined treatment using both low-frequency (20 kHz) and high-frequency ultrasounds (1.63 MHz) is a promising new process to stabilize emulsions with minimalist formulation. In order to optimize process parameters, a Doehlert experimental design was performed with oil-in-water emulsions, presently used for cosmetic products, composed of water, caprylic/capric triglycerides and oleic acid. - Methods : Effects of treatment time, oil content and oleic acid content were studied on emulsion properties (droplet size, polydispersity index, ζ-potential and yield of oil incorporation) and on emulsion stability after a 28-day storage (creaming index, Turbiscan stability index (TSI) and oil release). - Results : From experimental data, a model was established that allowed to study effects of each parameter and their interactions on emulsion formation and stability. Oleic acid content had a great impact on emulsion formation: It reduced droplet size, PDI and ζ-potential and increased yield of oil incorporation. However, a critical value could be highlighted, beyond which oleic acid effects reversed. Treatment time had an important beneficial effect on emulsion stability as it decreased creaming index, TSI and oil release after 28 days of storage. Oil content had a negative effect on emulsion formation and on emulsion stability. However, treatment time and oil content often had a beneficial synergistic effect. - Conclusion : The optimized conditions for emulsion processing were obtained through a desirability approach. They were experimentally validated. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Emulsification process - Size and ζ-potential measurements - Multiple light scattering for stability determination - Yield of oil incorporation and oil release after 28 days of storage determination - Experimental design - Model validation - Data and statistical analyses - Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion properties - Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion stability - Optimization of emulsion properties and stability - Model validation - Table 1 : Experimental domain and levels of studied parameters in emulsification process - Table 2 : Doehlert experimental design to study emulsification process - Table 3 : Experimental data obtained for each experiment in Doehlert experimental design - Table 4 : Predictive model regression coefficients for responses defining emulsion properties - Table 5 : Prediction model regression coefficients for responses defining emulsion stability - Table 6 : Comparison between predicted and experimental data obtained for model validation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12831 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TKyB0gTa88FJ000S2FbmQdRAy_0_fxU-/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39170 [article]

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