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Rhamnolipid : an eco- and skin-friendly alternative to synthetic surfactant / Elza B. Marangoni in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021)
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Titre : Rhamnolipid : an eco- and skin-friendly alternative to synthetic surfactant Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Elza B. Marangoni, Auteur ; Ticiane R. Rodrigues, Auteur ; Carla Porto, Auteur ; Rafaela T. R. Almeida, Auteur ; Maria I. Harris, Auteur ; Rita K. Oliveira, Auteur ; Dajara M. B. Moreira, Auteur ; Lucas G. S. Oliveira, Auteur ; Kaique J. Silva, Auteur ; Bruno Malito, Auteur ; Juliana S. Nakayama, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 12-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants
Biosurfactants
Chimie analytique
Concentration micellaire critique
Cosmétiques -- Analyse
Démaquillants
Evaluation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Rhamnolipides
Tension superficielleIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The search for innovative and sustainable products that are less damaging to the skin is a matter of foremost importance in the cosmetics area. Chemical surfactants are widely used in cosmetic formulations, however, they have harmful effects, such as allergic reactions and skin irritations, therefore, it is evident that chemical surfactants need to be replaced by more sustainable compounds that present fewer or no negative effect on skin health. Biosurfactants have shown great potential, presenting advantages such as biodegradability, low toxicity, skin compatibility, increased protection and moisturizing effects. Rhamnolipids (RLs) are biosurfactants produced by some bacteria, mainly . Because of the presence of hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups in the same molecule, RLs present interesting emulsifying and surfactant properties, making them a suitable alternative to chemical surfactants in cosmetic formulations. In the current study, the properties of the biosurfactant produced by Apoena Biotech were investigated through surface tension tests, CMC, foam formation and stability, antioxidant potential and makeup removal. It was found that RL is a potential substitute or co-surfactant for chemical surfactants. In addition, its antioxidant activity makes it a multifunctional active that can provide benefits to the skin, besides its surfactant’s properties. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry analysis(UHPLC-MS/MS) - Evaluation of foam formation and stability - Measurement of surface tension and CMC determination - Antioxidant potential - Evaluation of RLs as an active for make-yp remover lotion
- RESULTS : Structural elucidation of RLs - Measurement of surface tension and CMC determination - Antioxidant potential - Evaluation of RLs as active for make-up remover lotion
- Tableau 1 : Different rhamnolipid structures detected using UHPLC-MS/MS and respective relative areas (%)
- Tableau 2 : Evaluation of RL's ability to reduce surface tension under different conditionsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rk-vJaD3Mb4OMuiWbm3LSK6MRQFtD0Jj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37013
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