Investigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis / Roger L. McMullen in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 375-390 Titre : Investigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Roger L. McMullen, Auteur ; Donna Laura, Auteur ; Guojin Zhang, Auteur ; Bert Kroon, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 375-390 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie analytique Cocamidopropyl bétaine Cosmétiques Electrocinétique (effets d'interface) Gomme de guar La gomme de guar est extraite de la graine de la légumineuse Cyamopsis tetragonoloba, où elle sert de réserve d'aliments et d'eau. La gomme de guar est composée principalement de galactomannane, une fibre végétale soluble et acalorique. Le galactomannane est un polymère linéaire composé d'une chaine de monomères de mannose ((1,4)-beta-D-mannopyranose) auxquelles sont ramifiés par un pont 1-6 une unité de galactose. Le ratio entre le mannose et le galactose est de 2 pour 1, ainsi en moyenne une unité de galactose est ramifié tous les deux mannose sur la chaine. Par comparaison, il est de 4 pour 1 pour la gomme de caroube et 3 pour 1 pour la gomme tara. La gomme de guar est un additif alimentaire (E4124) largement utilisé dans l'industrie agro-alimentaire. Elle permet notamment d'alléger certaines préparations en remplaçant le rôle de l'amidon, de sucres ou de matières grasses. La gomme de guar est utilisée comme épaississant, stabilisant et émulsifiant dans les aliments grâce à sa texture uniforme et ses propriétés pour former des gels. Elle peut être utilisée dans les sauces, soupes, crèmes glacées et sorbets, produits de boulangerie et de pâtisserie, poudres, etc. Laureth sulfate de sodium Polymères cationiques Potentiel zeta shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Cationic guar is an important polysaccharide used as a hair conditioning agent in personal care products. In this article, we report streaming potential data demonstrating its behaviour as it interacts electrostatically with hair. Several cationic guar variants with different molecular weights (MWs) and charge densities (CDs) were examined. - Methods : All experiments were carried out with a custom-designed streaming potential instrument so that in situ, real-time data were monitored during the treatment of a hair plug with aqueous solutions of cationic guar and subsequent treatment with anionic surfactants—sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)—commonly found in contemporary shampoo formulations. - Results : The MW of the cationic guar variants plays an integral role in determining the thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer on the hair surface while CD influences the zeta potential. Data were also generated for the treatment of hair with a cationic flexible polymer (polyquaternium-28) and cationic conditioning surfactant (behentrimonium chloride) to provide a frame of reference. The deposition behaviour on hair of high MW cationic guar variants is distinct from these conventional molecules in terms of its electrokinetic properties. We also examined the electrokinetic behaviour of cationic guar on hair types from different racial backgrounds. While the cationic guar treatment yielded similar results for the different hair types, anionic surfactant treatment resulted in quicker sorption and desorption from African, European 65% grey, and Mulatto hair as compared to Chinese, European dark brown, and Indian hair. - Conclusion : We introduce an in situ technique for measuring the dynamic sorption/desorption of charged molecules on the surface of human hair. Evaluation of a series of cationic guar species revealed varying behaviour depending on the MW and CD of the polysaccharide. Our data also demonstrate differences in the desorption properties of typical shampoo surfactants for hair from diverse racial backgrounds. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair samples - Cationic guar variants - Electrokinetic permeability analysis - Mechanical measurements of combing force - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Zeta potential of hair - Hair treated with a conventional cationic surfactant - Hair treated with a conventional cationic copolymer - Hair treated with cationic guar - Influence of CD and MW on cationic guar deposition - Mechanical wet combing analysis of hair treated with cationic guar derivatives - Behaviour of cationic guar on different types of hair - Conductivity and pH of the streaming potential solution - Table 1 : Viscosity, CD, trade name and designation of the cationic guar variants investigated in this study. Unless otherwise indicated, viscosity measurements were conducted on 1% (w/w) solutions of the polymers - Table 2 : Calculated thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer according to Equation 2. Data are provided in µm DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12704 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15-tN68MsY8ahVox5SPuPv9GtRrHcxCcC/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36673 [article]

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