| Titre : |
The efficacy of synthetic pseudo-ceramide for dry and rough lips |
| Type de document : |
document électronique |
| Auteurs : |
E. Tamura, Auteur ; J. Ishikawa, Auteur ; T. Yamamoto, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2021 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 158-164 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Céramides Un céramide est un sphingolipide résultant de la combinaison d'un acide gras avec la sphingosine via une liaison amide. On trouve de telles molécules en abondance dans les membranes cellulaires, où elles entrent notamment dans la constitution des sphingomyélines. Les céramides ne jouent pas qu'un rôle structurel dans les membranes biologiques, et peuvent également revêtir des fonctions de signalisation lipidique. Leurs actions les mieux comprises vont de la différenciation cellulaire à la mort cellulaire programmée (apoptose) en passant par la prolifération cellulaire.
Les acides gras qui les constituent ont généralement un nombre pair (de 16 à 24) d'atomes de carbone, sont saturés ou monoinsaturés, et sont souvent α-hydroxylés.
La plupart des céramides n'existent pas à l'état naturel si ce n'est comme précurseurs de la biosynthèse des sphingolipides par une réaction d'addition sur la fonction alcool primaire de la sphingosine. (Wikipedia)
Cosmétiques
Lèvres -- Soins et hygiène
Perte insensible en eau
Rugosité
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
- OBJECTIVE : Lips can easily become dry and rough, one reason being the characteristics of their ceramide (CER) profile. Lips have lower levels of total ceramides, higher percentages of CER[NS] and CER[AS], and lower percentages of CER[NP] and CER[NH] than skin in other regions of the body. The purpose of this study was to clarify the effects of synthetic pseudo-ceramide (pCer; Cetyl-PG hydroxyethyl palmitamide) to improve the dryness and roughness of the lips of healthy subjects in a formulation that exclude an occlusive effect.
- METHODS : Thirty-one Japanese female subjects with normal skin (age range 21–37 years; mean 28.6) were enrolled in this study. A four-week continuous use test was conducted using samples with or without 0.5% or 2.0% pCer. The degree of lip roughness was scored, and values of capacitance, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and lip surface elasticity were measured. Endogenous CER profiles and absorption levels of pCer in the stratum corneum (SC) were analysed in tape-stripped skin specimens.
- RESULTS : Treatment with the pCer-2.0% sample significantly improved the visual roughness score after 2 and 4 weeks compared to 0 weeks and compared to the Blank. Moreover, an improvement in TEWL was observed after 4 weeks of treatment with the pCer-2.0% sample. CER[NP] showed a significant increase in pCer-2.0% treated lips after 4 weeks compared to the Blank. Both pCer-0.5% and pCer-2.0% were significantly absorbed after 2 weeks compared with the Blank.
- CONCLUSION : The effect of the synthetic pseudo-ceramide pCer to improve the roughness of lips was shown excluding the effect of occlusiveness derived from the formulation for the first time. Since the improvement of TEWL and absorption of pCer was observed, we concluded that pCer was first absorbed in rough lip areas, improved the ceramide profile and consequently restored the barrier function. |
| Note de contenu : |
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ethics - Subjects - Materials - Measurement of occlusivity - Degree of lip roughness - Biophysical measurements of the SC and measurement of surface elasticity - Tape stripping and lipid analysis by LC/MS - Ceramide measurement - Quantification of SC exfoliation protein - Calculation of ceramide quantitative value - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Changes in appearance score - Changes in SC functions and elasticity - Changes in ceramide profile - Changes in the amount of pCer absorption into the SC |
| DOI : |
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12677 |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/14CrdS_9PQCZFWZsO88j9A1l0_aG6uU_1/view?usp=shari [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35755 |
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 158-164
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