Adapting epicutaneous patch testing protocols to assess immediate-type skin reactions / Annette Mehling in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020) . - p. 328-335 Titre : Adapting epicutaneous patch testing protocols to assess immediate-type skin reactions Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Annette Mehling, Auteur ; S. Benard, Auteur ; N. Braun, Auteur ; Joachim Degwert, Auteur ; M. Duttine, Auteur ; Claudia Jassoy, Auteur ; H. Merk, Auteur ; U. Rossow, Auteur ; Jessica Welzel, Auteur ; W. Wigger-Alberti, Auteur ; Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Auteur ; J. Ennen, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 328-335 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatite de contact Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Patchs cosmétiques Peau -- Physiologie Produits de beauté Tests de compatibilité Tests de sécurité Urticaire L’urticaire est une maladie inflammatoire de la peau qui se traduit par des épisodes de plaques rouges et de démangeaisons sur la peau. Ces épisodes sont des poussées ou des « éruptions cutanées ». Au cours de chaque éruption, les plaques sont rouges ou rosées, arrondies, en relief (« papules ») et bien limitées. Elles sont souvent associées à des démangeaisons (« prurit »), comme après une brûlure d’orties. Les lésions d'urticaire ont pour caractéristiques de changer de place au fil des heures en dessinant des cercles ou des arabesques rouges sur la peau. L’éruption touche généralement la surface de la peau, mais elle peut parfois s’étendre en profondeur ou gagner le revêtement des orifices du visage : les muqueuses. Les lésions prennent alors un aspect particulier, devenant plus boursouflées ou Å“démateuses alors que les rougeurs sont moins importantes. On parle alors « d’œdème de Quincke » ou « d’angio-Å“dème ». Cette forme d’urticaire siège principalement sur le visage : paupières, lèvres, bouche et gorge (luette et pharynx). Quand l’urticaire touche la gorge, le risque est que l’œdème et son gonflement entraînent une gène à la respiration. La réaction de la peau (ou des muqueuses) est provoquée par l’activation de cellules immunitaires qui sont normalement présentes au niveau des couches superficielles de la peau : les « mastocytes ». Lorsque les mastocytes sont au repos, la peau est normale, mais lorsqu'ils sont activés par certains facteurs, ils vont libérer des substances, et en particulier l'histamine, substances qui vont déclencher la crise d’urticaire. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : During the development of cosmetic formulations, in vitro and in vivo methods are essential tools used to reliably assess the skin irritation potential of a product or ingredient. Epicutaneous patch testing (single and/or multiple application protocols) has long been used as an initial in vivo method to screen for possible skin irritation properties of a substance or formulation. To confirm the mildness and dermatological and/or consumer acceptance of a product, use tests are often subsequently conducted. A study was therefore initiated to see how well patch test results correlate with use tests with respect to irritation elicited by skincare (leave-on) products. - Methods/results : A number of different cosmetic formulations were assessed in both tests. Although the patch test results did not indicate substantial irritation potentials, immediate-type reactions (stinging and redness) were observed in some volunteers which disappeared within approx. 1 h. Although transient, these reactions suggested that consumer acceptance would probably be low and the studies were discontinued. Immediate-type reactions are rare but have been described for some substances used in cosmetics. These unexpected results were nevertheless intriguing and prompted the start of a journey to see if patch test protocols could be modified to assess these reactions. An occlusive short-term patch test protocol with an application period of 20 min was developed. Successful identification of the spontaneous reactions became possible. Furthermore, there was a correlation between the intensity of reactions observed in the short-term patch test and those observed in the controlled in-use studies. Short-term patch testing using the developed protocol can therefore reliably be used as a screening method, for example in the development and optimization of cosmetic formulations containing ingredients that could cause spontaneous reactions, for instance of non-immunological contact urticaria type. - Conclusion : The lessons learned from this studies indicate that simple modifications of existing test protocols can lead to important insights into skin reactions. These modifications can then be used to create further building blocks in the development and optimization of test strategies for cosmetic formulations which offer reliable study designs for possible reactions product developers may encounter. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS - METHODS : Ethics and general design - Test subjects - Single application epicutaneous 24-h patch test (Single EPI 24 h) and multiple application epicutaneous patch test (Multiple EPI) - Short-term in-use study (Short-term USE) and long-term in-use study (Long-term USE) - Short-term epicutaneous patch test (Short-term EPI 20 min) - Data analysis - RESULTS : Determination of the skin irritation potential in the Single EPI 24 h and Multiple EPI - Determination of the skin compatibility in the Short-term USE test - Short-term EPI: Alternative to Single EPI 24 h and Multiple EPI ? - Skin irritation results with a formulation containing a higher concentration of the suspected urticant - Results of epicutaneous patch test versus long-term USE - Importance for interpretation - Table 1. Irritation grading scale - Table 2. Sex, age and skin type distribution of test subjects - Table 3. Mean intensity scores after patch test removal or after short‐term exposure under use conditions - Table 4. Statistical analysis of reaction rates between the different skin compatibility tests - Table 5. Summary of study results based on percentage of reactions DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12619 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SAHLFHiuh-hYvwdJpeysUvXdeCJYfPlT/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35284 [article]

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Proven benefits on hair growth and nail quality in women of a recently developed dietary supplement / A. Derr in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022) . - p. 30-35 Titre : Proven benefits on hair growth and nail quality in women of a recently developed dietary supplement Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Derr, Auteur ; U. Heinrich, Auteur ; D. Seiler, Auteur ; M. R. Götz, Auteur ; C. Neumeister, Auteur ; N. Braun, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 30-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Compléments alimentaires Dermo-cosmétologie Evaluation Ongles -- Soins et hygiènes Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Deficiency of micronutrients may represent a modifiable risk factor associated with the development, prevention, and treatment of decreased hair and nail quality or hair loss. The aim of this monocentric, single-arm intervention study was therefore to investigate whether taking a food supplement with a rational composition of components affects hair and nail quality in women. A validated and non-invasive tool, the Trichoscale method, was used to quantify hair loss / hair growth.Subjective evaluation of hair and nail quality was also carried out by subjects and experts using a questionnaire. Intake of the dietary supplement resulted in significant improvement in hair status in several key parameters.The number of hairs in the growth phase significantly increased when compared to baseline (+7.5% after 8 weeks, +10.7% after 16 weeks), as did the density of adult fully pigmented hairs per square centimetre (+2.6% after 8 weeks; +5.9% after 16 weeks). Hair and nail quality improved significantly according to both the self-evaluation of the female participants and the assessment by a dermatological expert. The results of the Trichoscale method and subjective evaluations consistently demonstrated the beneficial effects of a food supplement on hair growth and nail quality in women. Note de contenu : - Methods - Study conduct : Determination of hair status with the trichoscale method - Self-assessment of the volunteers - Results : Anagen rate [%] - Number of terminal hairs / tets field - expert evaluation of effectiveness - Self-assessment of the effectiveness by the subjects - Summary of results - Table 1 : Vitamins and nutrients contained in BIO-H-TIN hair essentials - Table 2 : Results of expert evaluation and subjects' self-assessment of hair and nails. Statistically significant differences are highlighted in lilac En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vdlgo1uyxIN_XWVyshIlXsxgWhr5H1jJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37928 [article]

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