Investigations of vegetable tannins as hair dyes and their interactions with pre-bleached hair fibres / L. Sargsyan in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020) . - p. 320-327 Titre : Investigations of vegetable tannins as hair dyes and their interactions with pre-bleached hair fibres Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : L. Sargsyan, Auteur ; Volkmar Vill, Auteur ; Thomas Hippe, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 320-327 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Teinture Colorants végétaux Cosmétiques Mordançage (teinture) Produits capillaires Spectrophotométrie Tanins végétaux Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The aim of this work was to investigate an alternative hair-dyeing method with vegetable colourants as the tannins, as well as the impact of pre-treatment as the bleaching process. - Methods : Untreated, 1, 2 and 3 times bleached hair tresses that were dyed with tannins in combination with metal salts were characterized. The wash fastness and the colour strength of the vegetable-dyed hair tresses were spectrophotometrically investigated. - Results : To determine the colour strength KS and the wash fastness of vegetable-dyed and pre-bleached hair tresses, a three-dimensional colour coordinate system - CIELab - which describes the visual spectra is used. The distance between two colours in the CIELab colour space is expressed by ∆E-values, which are used to identify the wash fastness of the vegetable dye. The hair tresses that had been 3 times pre-bleached showed the highest colour strength and the best wash fastness. The fixation of the tannin–mordant complexes on the hair fibre proceeded effectively just when the hair tresses were bleached before the dying process. It is suggested that the sulphonic acid groups, which increase after bleaching hair, interact with the tannin–mordant hair dye and lead to stronger cross-links between keratinous fibres and tannin–mordant complexes. It was observed that the colour strength of the vegetable-dyed tresses correlates with the bleaching process. - Conclusion : The presented results demonstrate that the fixation of the vegetable tannin–mordant dying solution on the hair fibres succeed effectively on pre-bleached hair tresses. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair tresses - Bleaching application - Dyeing application - Wash fastness of vegetable-dyed hair tresses - Colour measurement - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Investigation of the impact of pre-bleaching hair samples and dying with mimosa powder extract and different mordants - Wash fastness Mimosa–iron(II)-lactate - Statistical analysis of colour fixation of bleached hair tresses - Fig. 1 : Plausible interactions of keratinous fibre with tannin–mordant complex - Fig. 2 : Colour strength of multiple pre-bleached hair tresses with mimosa and iron(II)-lactate dyed with the photographs of the REF - Fig. 3 : Colour strength of multiple pre-bleached hair tresses with mimosa and iron(III)-sulphate dyed with the photographs of the REF - Fig. 4 : Colour strength of multiple pre-bleached hair tresses with mimosa and potassium titanium oxalate dyed with the photographs of the REF - Fig. 5 : Possible interactions between bleached keratinous hair fibre and vegetable tannin–mordant dye system - Fig. 6 : Box and whisker plot of colour change ∆E hair tresses of 0 to 3 times pre-bleached after dyed with 1% mimosa and 1% iron(II)-lactate solutions with corresponding photographs of the hair tresses (n = 10). SE, standard error - Fig. 7 : Box and whisker plot of colour change ∆E hair tresses of 0 to 3 times pre-bleached after dyed with 1% mimosa and 1% potassium titanium oxalate dihydrate solutions with corresponding photographs of the hair tresses (n = 10). SE, standard error - Fig. 8 : Box and whisker plot of colour change ∆E hair tresses of 0 to 3 times pre-bleached after dyed with 1% mimosa and 1% iron(III)-sulphate solutions with corresponding photographs of the hair tresses (n = 10). SE, standard error DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12624 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XPVgSd60X1-txn7WwXmdEg6XcpGowHuh/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35283 [article]

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