Design of high-performance curling mascara through utilization of smart thermoresponsive polymer / S. Chen in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 557-563 Titre : Design of high-performance curling mascara through utilization of smart thermoresponsive polymer Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : S. Chen, Auteur ; S. Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 557-563 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Effet mémoire de forme Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Maquillage Mascaras Oscillation dynamique Polymères thermo-réactifs Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In this study, methoxy poly(ethylene glycol)-b-poly(D,L-lactide), or mPEG-PLA, was used as the smart thermoresponsive polymer in our mascara formulation. The utility of mPEG-PLA in a mascara formulation was investigated by a stepwise build-up in an oil in water (O/W) emulsion. The experimental results may pave the way to a strategy of developing more cosmetic formulation with thermoresponsive shape memory polymers (SMPs). - Method : mPEG-PLA was first incorporated in a simple emulsion for rheological evaluation such as shear flow viscosity and small deformation oscillation measurements over the relevant temperature settings to mascara application. Then, wax and pigment were incorporated to complete the basic formulation as an O/W mascara and evaluated rheologically as before. Finally, the formulation was applied by a heated mascara applicator to false lashes to evaluate its curing and lifting effect. - Results : With 0.8% concentration of mPEG-PLA, the viscosity was able to increase from 0.20 Pas•s to 1.00 Pas•s. At 1.0% concentration of mPEG-PLA, the emulsion samples with mineral oil were evaluated from 55°C to 25°C for its storage modulus (G’) and were found to have a consistent shear-thinning characteristic across all temperature range. The sample containing the polymer (M-1) arrived at a markedly higher elasticity when compared against the sample without (M-0). The same result holds true for the set of samples formulated with beeswax instead of mineral oil. When the formulations were applied with a heated mascara applicator on false eyelashes, the formulation containing mPEG-PLA was found to produce a more pronounced and longer-lasting curl. - Conclusion : This preliminary rheological study of an O/W mascara containing mPEG-PLA demonstrated that thermoresponsive SMP can be added to enhance the curl and lifting effect of a mascara formulation. Note de contenu : - Dynamical rheological study - Mascara performance - Table 1 : Samples formulation M-1 DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12639 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OBv1Meqi82VzcqwsowhgQFeMJAgcGxld/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35421 [article]

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Engineering rheological response in chitosan-sophorolipid systems through controlled interactions / S. Pingali in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020) . - p. 407-414 Titre : Engineering rheological response in chitosan-sophorolipid systems through controlled interactions Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : S. Pingali, Auteur ; A. M. Benhur, Auteur ; S. Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 407-414 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biopolymères Biosurfactants Chitosane Le chitosane ou chitosan est un polyoside composé de la distribution aléatoire de D-glucosamine liée en ß-(1-4) (unité désacétylée) et de N-acétyl-D-glucosamine (unité acétylée). Il est produit par désacétylation chimique (en milieu alcalin) ou enzymatique de la chitine, le composant de l'exosquelette des arthropodes (crustacés) ou de l'endosquelette des céphalopodes (calmars...) ou encore de la paroi des champignons. Cette matière première est déminéralisée par traitement à l'acide chlorhydrique, puis déprotéinée en présence de soude ou de potasse et enfin décolorée grâce à un agent oxydant. Le degré d'acétylation (DA) est le pourcentage d'unités acétylées par rapport au nombre d'unités totales, il peut être déterminé par spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de Fourier (IR-TF) ou par un titrage par une base forte. La frontière entre chitosane et chitine correspond à un DA de 50 % : en deçà le composé est nommé chitosane, au-delà, chitine. Le chitosane est soluble en milieu acide contrairement à la chitine qui est insoluble. Il est important de faire la distinction entre le degré d'acétylation (DA) et le degré de déacétylation (DD). L'un étant l'inverse de l'autre c'est-à-dire que du chitosane ayant un DD de 85 %, possède 15 % de groupements acétyles et 85 % de groupements amines sur ses chaînes. Le chitosane est biodégradable et biocompatible (notamment hémocompatible). Il est également bactériostatique et fongistatique. Le chitosane est également utilisé pour le traitement des eaux usées par filtration ainsi que dans divers domaines comme la cosmétique, la diététique et la médecine. Rhéologie Rhéomètres Sophorolipides Viscoélasticité Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The purpose of this study was to understand the impact of the biopolymer chitosan on the rheological behaviour of the biosurfactant sophorolipid as well as the effects of ionization and electrolyte addition on the chitosan–sophorolipid system. - Methods : Rotation mechanical rheometry was used to study the rheological response of the chitosan–SL systems. Frequency sweeps were conducted to analyse the rheological properties of the system at low-frequency ranges, and bulk viscosity of the system was studied at high shear rates for each sample. - Results : The biosurfactant sophorolipid on its own has very low viscosity. The bulk rheology results show that the addition of chitosan enhances the viscosity and viscoelastic properties of the chitosan–sophorolipid system indicating the presence of synergistic interactions between the two systems. Electrolyte addition had a significant impact on the system’s rheological response. Addition of salt built the viscosity of pure chitosan. However due to charge screening effects, it resulted in a decrease in viscosity for the chitosan–sophorolipid system. On further increasing the salt concentration, an increase in viscosity was observed but not beyond the value obtained for the chitosan–SL system without any salt. An increase in pH results in increased ionization of the carboxylic acid groups in acidic SL, which in turn enhances the synergistic interactions between chitosan and SL. - Conclusion : The strong charge interactions between chitosan and sophorolipid lead to formation of an integrated gel-like network, thus building the viscosity of the system. A variation in parameters like biopolymer concentration, electrolyte and ionic strength has the potential to modify the bulk rheological properties of the chitosan-SL system. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Effect of ratio - Effect of salt - Effect of pH - Technique - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of ratio - Effect of salt - Effect of pH - Table 1 : Composition of chitosan–SL systems - Table 2 C: omposition of chitosan–SL–salt systems DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12640 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CjGcsphodoRv_Sv1o_cNdTaU5sYr-eaT/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35292 [article]

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Microstructure design of CTAC:FA and BTAC:FA lamellar gels for optimized rheological performance utilizing automated formulation platform / A. R. Davies in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 259-269 Titre : Microstructure design of CTAC:FA and BTAC:FA lamellar gels for optimized rheological performance utilizing automated formulation platform Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : A. R. Davies, Auteur ; S. Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 259-269 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcools gras Automatisation Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chlorure de behentrimonium Chlorure de cétrimonium Composés lamellaires Dilution Elasticité Formulation (Génie chimique) Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Micelles Produits après-shampooings Rhéologie Surfactants Systèmes auto-assemblés Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : The main objective of this paper was to optimize hair conditioner performance through variation of composition utilizing automated cosmetic formulation platform and advanced characterization techniques as well as develop understanding of how performance (wet combing and wet lubrication) of hair conditioner is affected by its rheology (i.e. yield stress) and controlled breakdown of the formulations (dilution). The experimental results show that yield stress greatly impacts rheology, stability and performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning. - Methods : All samples were prepared on the Chemspeed Flex Formax. A mechanical rheometer was used to measure bulk viscosity and yield stress in each sample. Dia-stron tensile tester was used to measure the lamellar gels ability to reduce combing force. Potential stronger lamellar gel network formation in the formed lamellar gels potentially leads to higher yield stress exhibited. Viscosity values were also measured after a controlled breakdown (i.e. dilution) of each sample. This was also carried out using a mechanical rheometer. - Results : Yield stress of the formulations was engineered through composition variation and was recorded in each system. The highest yield stress value is 251.179 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 50.14 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:5. The highest yield stress value is 50.14 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 19.98 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 2:10. The highest overall yield stress values can also be observed in the BTAC/CA system, whereas the CTAC/CA system has relatively lower yield stress values. Dilution of each formulation caused a breakdown in viscosity of each formulation with the formulations with highest yield stress maintaining higher viscosity than the other formulations. The formulations with highest yield stress in each system which also maintains the highest dilution viscosity (6% BTAC/10% CA and 6% CTAC/10% CA) have the best effect on reducing overall combing force, that is from dry hair tress to wet hair tress and after product is rinsed off. At a BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:5, there is an 89% reduction in combing force and a 95% reduction in combing force in the BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. At a CTAC/CA system of ratio 2:10, there is a 65% reduction in combing force and a 88% reduction in combing force in the CTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. A ‘conditioned’ soft feel was observed on each hair tress as the sample was applied and after it was rinsed off. - Conclusions : The overall performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning can be engineered through optimization of the formulation microstructure and formulation microstructure breakdown on dilution. Note de contenu : - Objectives : The main objective of this paper was to optimize hair conditioner performance through variation of composition utilizing automated cosmetic formulation platform and advanced characterization techniques as well as develop understanding of how performance (wet combing and wet lubrication) of hair conditioner is affected by its rheology (i.e. yield stress) and controlled breakdown of the formulations (dilution). The experimental results show that yield stress greatly impacts rheology, stability and performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning. - Methods : All samples were prepared on the Chemspeed Flex Formax. A mechanical rheometer was used to measure bulk viscosity and yield stress in each sample. Dia-stron tensile tester was used to measure the lamellar gels ability to reduce combing force. Potential stronger lamellar gel network formation in the formed lamellar gels potentially leads to higher yield stress exhibited. Viscosity values were also measured after a controlled breakdown (i.e. dilution) of each sample. This was also carried out using a mechanical rheometer. - Results : Yield stress of the formulations was engineered through composition variation and was recorded in each system. The highest yield stress value is 251.179 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 50.14 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:5. The highest yield stress value is 50.14 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 19.98 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 2:10. The highest overall yield stress values can also be observed in the BTAC/CA system, whereas the CTAC/CA system has relatively lower yield stress values. Dilution of each formulation caused a breakdown in viscosity of each formulation with the formulations with highest yield stress maintaining higher viscosity than the other formulations. The formulations with highest yield stress in each system which also maintains the highest dilution viscosity (6% BTAC/10% CA and 6% CTAC/10% CA) have the best effect on reducing overall combing force, that is from dry hair tress to wet hair tress and after product is rinsed off. At a BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:5, there is an 89% reduction in combing force and a 95% reduction in combing force in the BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. At a CTAC/CA system of ratio 2:10, there is a 65% reduction in combing force and a 88% reduction in combing force in the CTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. A ‘conditioned’ soft feel was observed on each hair tress as the sample was applied and after it was rinsed off. - Conclusions : The overall performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning can be engineered through optimization of the formulation microstructure and formulation microstructure breakdown on dilution. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12609 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eCms_kWzscE6oPauostB7q8_J8tKKwBu/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35273 [article]

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