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Development and validation of a reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatographic method for the quantitation and stability of a-lipoic acid in cosmetic creams / S. Papageorgiou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)
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Titre : Development and validation of a reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatographic method for the quantitation and stability of a-lipoic acid in cosmetic creams Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : S. Papageorgiou, Auteur ; Athanasia Varvaresou, Auteur ; I. Panderi, Auteur ; M. Giannakou, Auteur ; C. Spiliopoulou, Auteur ; S. Athanaselis, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 221-228 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Lipoïque, AcideL’acide alphalipoïque, également appelé acide thioctique est une substance d’une part apportée par l’alimentation, mais aussi fabriquée à partir de l’acide octanoïque par l’organisme, parfois en quantité insuffisante, à partir de la cystéine. Amphiphile, il exerce une activité antioxydante tant en milieu hydrophile ou aqueux (comme la vitamine C) qu’en milieu lipophile ou graisseux (comme la vitamine E et le ß-carotène).
On le trouve principalement dans les abats, la levure, les feuilles vertes (brocolis, épinards), carottes, betterave…Les compléments alimentaires sont mieux assimilés hors des repas.Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To develop and validate a simple reversed-phase HPLC method for the quantitation and evaluation of stability of alipoic acid in cosmetics, according to International Conference on Harmonization (ICH) Guidelines.
- Methods : The chromatography was performed on a reversed-phase Luna C18, analytical column (150 × 4.6 mm id, 5 µm particle size) with a mobile phase of potassium dihydrogen phosphate (pH 4.5; 0.05 M) and acetonitrile (60:40, v/v) and a flow rate of 1.0 mL min-1 with UV detection at 340 nm. Accelerated and long-term stability studies of alipoic acid in cosmetic cream were conducted under various degradation conditions including acid, basis, oxidation, and thermal and photolytic degradation, according to European Medicines Agency Guidelines CPMP/ICH/2736/99.
- Results : The limit of detection (LOD) for the cosmetic cream was 0.9 µg mLt1 and the limit of quantitation (LOQ) was 2.8 µg mL-1, while the retention time was 7.2 min. The method proved to be linear, precise and accurate. The stability results demonstrated the selectivity of the proposed method to the analysis of aLA, and the degradation products were determined and evaluated in specific stress conditions in cosmetic creams. The applicability of the method was tested in two different developed cosmetic products (cream with 1.5 % w/w and emulsion with 1.0 % w/w of LA) and proved to be reliable.
- Conclusion : A reversed-phase HPLC-UV method was developed and fully validated for the analysis of alipoic acid in cosmetics. It is the first reported application on the quantitation of lipoic acid in cosmetic creams, while at the same time evaluates the stability in forced degradation conditions, in new cosmetic formulations. It proved to be suitable for the reliable quality control of cosmetic products, with a run time of <8 min that allows for the analysis of large number of samples per day.Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Instrumentation - Stock and working standard solutions - Cosmetic cream - Samples preparation (Cosmetic cream - Validation procedure)
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Method development - Method validation (Linearity - Precision and accuracy - Specificity - Stability studies - Application to the analysis of cosmetic products)
- Table 1 : Statistical analysis of the calibration curves for the quantitation of a-lipoic acid in cosmetic creams
- Table 2 : Accuracy and precision evaluation of a-lipoic acid in cosmetic creams (3 runs, six replicates per run)
- Table 3 : Stability data for a-lipoic acid in cosmetic cream by RP-HPLC-UV
- Table 4 : Analytical data on the determination of a-lipoic acid in cosmetic products by HPLC-UV.
DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12603 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CDGzkfOBUubb4Zme-g1-JdDnLriy1QW3/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35269
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 221-228[article]Exemplaires
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