Ethiopian Ankelba : an attempt to modernize the cultural leather artifact / Elena Teka Genet in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXV, N° 12 (12/2020)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXV, N° 12 (12/2020) . - p. 435-443 Titre : Ethiopian Ankelba : an attempt to modernize the cultural leather artifact Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Elena Teka Genet, Auteur ; Jima Demisie Wegene, Auteur ; Gebrekidan Asfaha Gebrehiwot, Auteur ; Palanisamy Thanikaivelan, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 435-443 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Analyse des données Ankelba -- Conception et construction Caractérisation Cuirs et peaux Echantillonnage Ergonomie Objets usuels Production Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Ethiopia has many cultural artifacts made of traditionally processed leathers. Ankelba is one of them and utilized in most part of Ethiopia to carry baby. Here, we report salient features of ankelba and its value in Ethiopia region, demerits of the product and strategies to enhance the design feature of cultural ankelba while maintaining its cultural value. Data were collected through interview guided questionaries' to analyze the causes for the reduced usage of the product. We identified that the traditionally processed cow leathers are heavy with poor color fastness. Further, we recognized that cultural ankelba has flawed design features such as fixed size, improperly placed zagols (sea shell) and uncomfortable strap construction to hold the baby. Here, we present an efficiently designed ankelba overcoming the key deficiencies while preserving the cultural value of local people. This study would pave way for restoration of several cultural artifacts available across the globe. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Methods - Data collection and sampling - Geographical domain for the research - Data analysis - Characterization - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Traditional leather processing in Ethiopia - Traditional Ankelba production - Major causes for the declined use of traditional Ankelba - Problems associated with the use of traditional leathers for Ankelba production - Problems associated with the traditional design features of Ankelba - Strategy for improving the materials and design of Ankelba - Physical and bulk properties of leathers processed using traditional and modern techniques - Dry and wet rub color fastness of traditionally tanned and modern tanned leathers - Table 1 : Area of data collection and number of participants for data collection - Table 2 : Ankelba size measurements - Table 3 : Leather related problems and their ranking in cultural ankelba - Table 4 : Design related problems and their ranking in cultural ankelba - Fig. 1 : Traditional leather processing in Ethiopia, a) Hide soaking in damped river, b) fleshing, c) cow hides preparation for unhairing, d) oiling and inset, e) oil used for softening leather - Fig. 2 : Ankelba leather preparation steps, a) Leather cutting and dyeing, b) leather strap making, c) button attaching, d) zagol inserting and, f) strap stitching. inset in e) show zagols - Fig. 3 : Major causes for the declined use of traditional ankelba - Fig. 4 : Drawbacks of Ethiopian cultural ankelba, a) inaproppriate size and many zagols and b) un-comfortable neck construction and many buttons DOI : https://doi.org/10.34314/jalca.v115i12.4199 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11bhv8vJ2YNLxEDXk6vMvIxuCHtYgRpJZ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34996 [article]

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