Cosmetic UV filters in the environment-state of the art in EU regulations, science and possible knowledge gaps / Sascha Pawlowski in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 52-66 Titre : Cosmetic UV filters in the environment-state of the art in EU regulations, science and possible knowledge gaps Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sascha Pawlowski, Auteur ; Laura Henriette Luetjens, Auteur ; Alina Preibisch, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 52-66 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie industrielle -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union européenne cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques Produits antisolaires Règlements de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The aim of this work was to review the principals of environmental hazard and risk assessment (ERA) of cosmetic UV filters registered under EU REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals). Furthermore, effects as obtained from non-standardized testing methods and organisms from scientific literature were compared against the predicted no effect concentrations (PNECs) as derived based on standardized test methods for the various environmental compartments under REACH. - Methods : The REACH dossiers at the ECHA webpage were screened for available information related to basic physico–chemical data (i.e. water solubility, octanol–water partitioning coefficient), PNECs and associated data (data basis, assessment factors (AFs)). Scientific literature was screened for available ecotoxicity data and the adverse effect levels were compared against the derived PNECs under REACH. Current approaches for environmental risk assessments of UV filters were evaluated for its applicability for a direct release scenario. - Results : Under REACH, PNECs were derived for all hazardous UV filters. Although, PNECs were often derived for various environmental compartments (i.e. freshwater, marine water, sediment, soil), results from literature focused on aquatic data. Effects as observed within scientific literature matches in principle with the hazardous profile of the UV filters. Effects levels both on the acute and the chronic toxicity as retrieved from the non-standardized test organisms (literature) were above the derived PNECs under REACH. Currently, ERAs performed for cosmetic UV filters under REACH are solely tonnage driven and thus do not fully capture the use in sunscreens and associated leisure activities. - Conclusion : Existing EU REACH regulation is considered as sufficient to evaluate the environmental safety of UV filters used in sunscreens. To cover the direct release of UV filters due to various leisure activities into the aquatic freshwater and marine environment, an additional application-based ERA is considered necessary. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Review of information requirements for UV filters under REACH - Extraction of relevant information from REACH dossiers - Extraction of relevant information from literature review - Comparison of effect levels from non-standardized test organisms with derived PNECs under EU REACH - RESULTS : Review of information requirements for UV filters and principles of environmental risk assessments (ERAs) under REACH - Review of relevant information related to the environmental safety of UV filters within EU REACH - Review of scientific literature - Comparison of REACH derived PNECs with toxicity levels from non-standardized tests - Table 1 : Overview of investigated UV filters and relevant physical–chemical properties - Table 2 : Overview of principal environmentally related data requirements for substances such as UV filters used in sunscreens under REACH - Table 3 : Freshwater : Predicted no effect concentrations (PNECfreshwater) from the REACH registration dossier of UV filters and most sensitive data on various organisms from literature (acute and chronic) - Table 4 : Marine water: Predicted no effect concentrations (PNECmarine water) from the REACH registration dossier of UV filters and most sensitive data on various organisms from literature (acute and chronic) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12898 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12898 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40251 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

EcoSun Pass : A tool to evaluate the ecofriendliness of UV filters used in sunscreen products / S. Pawlowski in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 201-210 Titre : EcoSun Pass : A tool to evaluate the ecofriendliness of UV filters used in sunscreen products Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : S. Pawlowski, Auteur ; B. Herzog, Auteur ; M. Sohn, Auteur ; Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Auteur ; S. Acker, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 201-210 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ecotoxicologie Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Mélanogénèse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Sunscreens play a major role in the EU sun protection strategy in order to prevent humans from UV light-induced skin damage. In recent years, the demand for high-quality sunscreen products including aspects of broad range and photostability of the UV protection, showing good spreadability onto human skin and excellent sensorial properties during and after application has increased. Environmental aspects are considered. Sunscreens are complex compositions, with UV filters being the key element in the formulations reaching up to about 30% in content in the final product. Some of these ingredients, however, may be regarded as hazardous for the aquatic environment. Nevertheless, the aquatic ecosystem represents only a single environmental compartment, which may be impacted by UV filters. Therefore, the EcoSun Pass (ESP) tool was developed in order to assess the overall environmental impact of UV filters in combination with its efficacy (Sun Protection Factor, SPF and UVA Protection Factor, UVA-PF). - Methods : For that purpose, at first 24 of the EU-approved UV filters for sunscreen applications were evaluated for their environmental hazard profiles. Nine example UV filter compositions representing both SPF 30 and 50 were evaluated for ecofriendliness using the ESP tool. - Results : The results revealed that two out of four SPF 30 compositions are considered as ecofriendly. Likewise, from the SPF 50 two out of five did meet the criteria for ecofriendliness. Furthermore, the results showed that most ecofriendly example formulations have also the lowest overall UV filter content in the product, based on the use of highly innovative and least hazardous UV filters. - Conclusion : These results demonstrate that the tool is applicable to various formulations being present on the market and thus allows for a selection of most ecofriendly and efficient UV filters to be used in sunscreens. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Composition of sunscreens and rationale for this approach - Substances evaluated - Efficacy of UV filters - Data sources - Evaluation of the environmental hazard score - Determination of the overall hazard score - Cut-off criteria - Ecotoxicological ranking of compositions - Example calculations and threshold criterion - RESULTS : Environmental hazard score of co-formulants - Environmental hazard score of the UV filters - Environmental hazard score of other excipients used in sunscreens - Cut-off criteria - Ecotoxicological ranking of compositions - Table 1. Overview of EU-approved UV filters used in cosmetic sunscreen products - Table 2. Environmental chapters, relevant criteria and related scores DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12681 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qfmdF-xjpUvbRQ0YMxwdPyCVleQvjPri/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35763 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

How to overcome the new challenges in sun-care / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 2-12 Titre : How to overcome the new challenges in sun-care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Auteur ; Sascha Pawlowski, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Ethylhexyl Méthoxycinanamate Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Octocrylène Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sunscreen producers and UV filter manufacturers are currently facing urgent challenges. On the one hand, the legal situation of two widely used UVB filters Ethylhexyl Methoxycinanamate (EHMC) and Octocrylene (OCR) is unclear due to rising concerns on their safety for humans and the environment; on the other hand, the image of nano particulate UV filters is downgraded in the press and by digital apps questioning their safety profile without scientifically based evidence. Some producers pro-actively remove these UV filters from their new sunscreens' developments which is a real challenge in terms of performance achievement. This paper aims to provide UV filter system alternatives for developing efficient sunscreens without EHMC and OCR. Additionally, it clarifies the safety situation of nano-particulate UV filters and explains their usefulness in sunscreens, providing, however, UV filter system alternatives. Furthermore, this manuscript presents a calculation method to assess the impact of a UV filter combination on the environment and shows that it is possible to develop eco-sustainable sunscreens. Though, each restriction in the choice of UV filters will imply certain compromises. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Formulations for octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate free systems - Measurement of free radicals - Blue light transmittance measurements - Assessment of the EcoSun pass value - RESULTS : Sunscreens without octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate - Nano particulate UV filters in sunscreens - Environmental impact of sunscreens - Fig. 1 : Photostability profile of a) Photostable UVA and b) Partly stabilized UVA sunscreens ; irradiation performed as described in ISO24443:2012 - Fig. 2 : Specific UV extinction E (1,1) for different particle size of TBPT - Table 1 : Investigated UV filter combinations for sunscreens without EHMC and OCR - Table 2 : Maximum authorized concentration and status of European approved UV filters - Table 3 : INCI, efficacy E (1,1) max and handling of alternative UVB filters in Europe - Table 4 : SPF, UVA-PF, and generated free radicals (%) of DHHB or BMDBM based UV filter combinations - Table 5 : Features of nano and some soluble registered UV filters - Table 6 : UV combinations without nano filters for SPF 30, 50 and 50+ with a ratio UVA-PF/SPF of at least 1/3 - Table 7 : Ecosun Pass value and SPF of five UV filters combinations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O3nEeRuS9ZgrfESGbXfMJxKbSBGJjGCi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34614 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21874	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

---

1 (1 - 3 / 3)