Functional vegan silk - Crafted by white biotechnology to utilise a new way to take care of damaged hair / Joachim Müller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 34-43 Titre : Functional vegan silk - Crafted by white biotechnology to utilise a new way to take care of damaged hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Müller, Auteur ; Natalie Blost, Auteur ; Kristin Nessbach, Auteur ; Morgane de Tollenaere, Auteur ; Amandine Scandolera, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 34-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Actifs antidécoloration Biopolymères Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie biomimétique Polypeptides Un polypeptide est une chaîne d'acides aminés reliés par des liaisons peptidiques. On parle de polypeptide lorsque la chaîne contient entre 10 et 100 acides aminés. Au-dessus de 100 acides aminés on parle généralement de protéine. Parmi eux, les peptides multi-cycliques, les peptides phosphorylés ou encore ceux intégrant des liaisons non-peptidiques ou des peptides conjugués. Certains polypeptides constituent une famille d'antibiotiques dont les molécules très toxiques n'en permettent qu'un usage très limité. D'autres s’imposent aujourd’hui comme des éléments essentiels à la mise au point de vaccins ou de principes actifs destinés aux traitements de certaines pathologies telles que les cancers, les déficiences hormonales, l’ostéoporose. Produits vegan Soie et constituants Soie végétale Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Human hair can be damaged in many different ways. Frequently in everyday life, the natural fibres come into close contact with heat or chemical agents, which attack and damage their structure and can impair their visual appearance. In recent decades, various substances have been identified and developed by the cosmetics industry to minimize such influences. Previously, it has been reported that Silkgel, a breakthrough nature-inspired biopolymer from Givaudan Active Beauty, offers many unique benefits particularly for the use in hair care applications such as anti-pollution, anti-colour-fading and sensorial features. A completely new application for this highly innovative, vegan and biomimetic raw material presents its use as conditioning agent to protect and repair the hair structure from damages. Due to its defined composition and its ability to self-assembly, the biotechnologically derived vegan silk polypeptides inside the Silkgel are able to form a protective and conditioning film onto the surface of the hair. Therefore, vegan silk molecules can represent a valid alternative to traditional and chemical protective conditioning agents based on hydrolysates such as keratin, wheat protein and wheat starch. According to our latest findings, it has been demonstrated that vegan silk polypeptides used as protective or repair conditioning agents were able to increase the breaking force as well as to decrease the 3D volume fraction of the damage (x-ray nanotomography) of thermally treated and dyed hair. Thus, in contrast to conventional raw materials based on e.g. silicones, which are commonly used for hair conditioning and protection, vegan silk represents a true ecological, natural-inspired and vegan alternative with an excellent protective and repairing performance for both thermal treatment and colouration of hair, thereby meeting the expectations of the highly innovative clean beauty market. Note de contenu : - THE HAIR STYLING MARKET WILL CONTINUE TO GROW WITH THE RISING CONSUMER DEMAND OF INNOVATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Evaluation of Silkgel as protection and hair repair agent - Ex vivo measurements of hair breakage using tensile testing - Hair protection study – thermal protection - Hair repair study – regeneration of thermally and chemically induced damages - RESULTS : Vegan Silk – An excellent protection agent for hair care - Real added value – Silk treatments for hair repair Silk induced repair visualized using x-ray nanotomography - CONCLUSION : Functional vegan silk – Meeting the performance and clean beauty market expectations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17nsR89BCcY2z529gqLJce9TIQ-7Vs1O4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34598 [article]

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