An image-based mapping of significance and relevance of facial skin colour changes of females living in Thailand / P. Seroul in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 99-107 Titre : An image-based mapping of significance and relevance of facial skin colour changes of females living in Thailand Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : P. Seroul, Auteur ; Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Sarah Gougeon, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur ; Rainer Voegeli, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 99-107 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Cartographie  faciale'  Pertinence  'Couleur  de  peau'  Statistiques  Thailandaise Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : There are methods to evaluate skin colour on defined areas over the face but no approach automatically and accurately evaluates skin colour variations on large facial areas, comparing subjects, treatments and/or time points. We propose such an image-based approach to visualize quickly the outcome of clinical studies on colour variations. - Methods : Among 54 Asian women, one group applied a vehicle twice daily, during 28 days, and the other group an anti-ageing emulsion, taking facial images at baseline and after treatment. Changes in L*a*b* values were studied on four pre-selected facial regions. We also reconstructed average facial images from which the L*a*b* parameters were extracted for every pixel, computing relevance (ΔE) and significance data. Using colour gradients, we mapped these results onto the average facial images. - Results : After treatment, L*a*b* parameters show no statistically relevant colour changes in the vehicle group. In the ‘active’ group, skin was lighter at the upper cheek and, overall, redness decreased. Relevance and significance maps confirmed no visible colour changes in the vehicle group. In the ‘active’ group, the mapping approach revealed colour changes and their location. Skin became lighter below the eye, cheek and forehead. It was less red below the eyes, on the cheek, jawline and forehead, and generally more yellow. - Conclusion : Our image-based mapping approach proves to be powerful. It enables us to identify precise facial regions of relevant and statistically significant colour changes after a topical treatment, regions that would have otherwise been undetected. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects and treatment - Acquisition of facial images and pre-processing - Classical determination of L*, a* and b* colour parameters - Image-based mapping of relevance and significance of changes in skin colour - RESULTS : Classical L*a*b* colour analysis only shows changes for subjects treated with the active formulation - Relevance maps indicate visible colour changes but gives little information on the nature of the changes - Significance maps give a detailed insight on colour changes over time DOI : 10.1111/ics.12593 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a-e0LZJdU_DTNY2U1EOZLJHjwKnjWrX8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33684 [article]

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A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 703-718 Titre : A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; Rotraut Schoop, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 703-718 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chinois(e)s Cornéométrie Cosmétiques Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Hydratation Mesure Produits hydratants Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVES : The aim of this study was to compare the data of conductance and capacitance measurements of facial skin hydration and to evaluate and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the different approaches. - METHODS : We measured skin capacitance (Corneometer® CM 825) and skin conductance (Skicon-200EX®) on 30 pre-defined facial sites of 125 Chinese women, resulting in 3750 readings per device. The data were analysed and compared, and continuous colour maps were generated on a 3D avatar for capacitance, conductance, relative difference (Δ%) and correlation (R-value) by interpolating between the individual readings and converting the values to colours. This visualization allows a better interpretation of the results. - RESULTS : The complexity of facial skin hydration is revealed by this approach. The similarities and discrepancies in the facial hydration maps are clearly apparent. Due to the superiority of the Skicon in measuring high hydration levels, differences in skin hydration were evident on the forehead compared with the Corneometer maps, which may be related to the more superficial measurement of the Skicon within the stratum corneum. Conversely, a greater understanding of the complexity of facial skin hydration in the nasolabial fold was obvious when using the Corneometer. The best congruence between the instruments was found at two specific but separated facial areas, one around the inner eye region and the other one on a line between the nasolabial sulcus and the oblique, lateral jaw. Interestingly, the data were not normally distributed for both instruments and they had opposite skews. All facial clusters were statistically different from each other (p < 0.001), except the cheek and jaw for the Skicon. Larger than expected percentage coefficients of variance were found for the Corneometer on some facial sites that might be explainable by differences in stratum corneum physiology and biochemistry. Corneometer values of 48 AU and Skicon values of 132 μS were taken as the cutoff for normally hydrated facial skin. - CONCLUSIONS : Both devices have their advantages and disadvantages suggesting that bio-instrumental measurement of skin hydration is actually more complicated than commonly thought and that the different facial zones and the use of multiple instrumentation have not been adequately considered. Note de contenu : - Study population and general approach - Expert grading of facial dryness and roughness (whole face) - Bio-instrumental evaluation - Creation of facial colour maps for skin hydration, Δ% and correlation - Statistical analysis - Table 1 : Scales for expert gradings of facial dryness and facial roughness - Table 2 : Mapping layout, description of the 30 predefined facial measurement points - Table 3 : Summary of data and evaluations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12814 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VI5F2j9CH50jwWeiA2VCrnG2AcV1NBht/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38393 [article]

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Pigmentation effects of blue light irradiation on skin and how to protect against them / Remo Campiche in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020) . - p. 399-406 Titre : Pigmentation effects of blue light irradiation on skin and how to protect against them Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Remo Campiche, Auteur ; S. J. Curpen, Auteur ; V. Lutchmanen-Kolanthan, Auteur ; Sarah Gougeon, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; G. Laurent, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; R. Schuetz, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 399-406 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues d'eau douce Biomolécules actives Formulation (Génie chimique) Lumière artificielle -- Effets physiologiques Lumière bleue Nicotinamide Pigmentation, Troubles de la Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Visible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the clear effect of blue light on photoageing are still scarce, and so far, most studies have focused on broad-spectrum visible light. Although there is evidence for increased skin pigmentation, the underlying mechanisms of photoageing in vivo are still unclear. Furthermore, there is still a need for active ingredients to significantly protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation in vivo. Our study had two aims: to detect visible changes in skin pigmentation following repeated irradiation of the skin with LED-based blue light and to reduce pigmentation using suitable active ingredients. - Method : We conducted a randomized, double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical study on 33 female volunteers with skin phototypes III and IV. We used a repetitive blue light (4 × 60 J cm−2, 450 nm) irradiation protocol on the volunteers’ inner forearms. Using hyperspectral imaging, we assessed chromophore status. In addition, we took chromameter measurements and photographs to assess visible hyperpigmentation. - Results : We measured significant changes in chromophore status (P < 0.001 vs baseline), that is of melanin, haemoglobin and oxygen saturation, immediately after blue light irradiation. In addition, we found visible skin colour changes which were expressed by a significant decrease in ITA° values (delta ITA° = -16.89, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) and an increase in a* (delta a* = +3.37, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) 24 h post-irradiation. Hyperpigmentation and skin reddening were mitigated by both a formulation containing 3% of a microalgal product and a formulation containing 3% niacinamide. - Conclusion : Our study sets out an efficient and robust protocol for investigating both blue light-induced cutaneous alterations, such as changes in skin chromophores, and signs of photoageing, such as hyperpigmentation. Moreover, we have shown evidence that both an extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and niacinamide (vitamin B3) have the potential to protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test compounds - Blue light source - Clinical study design - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Blue light‐induced changes in skin chromophores - Blue light‐induced changes in skin colour - Table 1 : Formulations used in this study DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12637 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LwcZLPEyAn7hYOz0vljrQ_rPWJ1WpkLk/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35291 [article]

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Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 632-636 Titre : Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Dilek Guneri, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; B. Summers, Auteur ; Majella E. Lane, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 632-636 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caucasien(ne)s Cornéocytes Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Femmes Hydrophobie Nicotinamide Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Age‐related differences in maturation parameters of corneocyte envelopes (size, hydrophobicity and rigidity) were examined at several facial test sites in young and old female Caucasians. In addition, the effect of topically applied niacinamide on these parameters was evaluated in a 4‐week placebo‐controlled study. The stratum corneum (SC) undergoes a variety of catabolic and anabolic reactions towards its outer surface layers in preparation for its external assault from the terrestrial environment. These events are essential for the formation of a healthy barrier. Key is the maturation of the corneocyte envelope (CE) (Fig. 1). Morphologically, CE’s appear fragile in the deeper layers of the SC and more rigid in the outer layers, the mechanics of which have been confirmed with several biomechanical approaches. Early methods to assessing the maturity of the CE’s were based upon staining with tetramethylrhodamine isothiocyanate (TRITC) where rigid CEs stain more intensely than fragile ones. Later, their protein content was assessed by involucrin immunochemistry and their lipid content by Nile red staining which was then expressed as a ratio. Using these approaches, improvements in CE maturity of the volar forearm and the legs have been observed with moisturizers containing glycerol and niacinamide. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Model of the corneocyte envelope (CE). An early step in the cornification process is the formation of the intercellular cytoskeleton mainly composed of keratin filaments and filaggrin. Cross-linking of proteins, mainly of loricrin and involucrin form the rigid inner corneocyte protein envelope (CPE). Then, a lipid monolayer, the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), is covalently attached to the CPE. The CLE serves as a scaffold for the lamellar organization of the extracellular lipid matrix. - Fig. 2 : Facial test sites, central forehead (CF), cheek (CH) (3 cm vertically beneath the outer edge of the eye), top nasolabial sulcus (NT), midpoint nasolabial sulcus (NM) - Fig. 3 : Baseline data, differences of CE maturation parameters (size (a), hydrophobicity (b), rigidity (c), RCEM (d)) between young and aged facial SC. Data are mean SEM, statistical comparison young vs. old, * P < 0.05, ns not significant - Fig. 4 : Baseline corrected data of the impact of topically applied niacinamide on CE maturation parameters (hydrophobicity (a), rigidity (b), RCEM (c)) in young and aged facial SC. Data are mean SEM, statistical comparison baseline vs. treatment, * P < 0.05, ns not significant - Table 1 : INCI list of test creams DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12666 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xzLcNcWvc1rQwBPvftiLnXvrVinoYNlz/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35430 [article]

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Transferring pigmentation from forearm to face / Remo Campiche in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 3 (03/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 3 (03/2022) . - p. 60-64 Titre : Transferring pigmentation from forearm to face Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; Dominik Imfeld, Auteur ; Sarah Gougeon, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; Magalie Roche, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 60-64 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Mesure Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation de la peau Simulation par ordinateur Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There is interest, particularly within the cosmetics industry, in understanding what pigmentation reactions and their modulation look like on the face. We have therefore developed methods that enable us to transfer pigmentation digitally from volunteers’ inner forearms to their faces. Using these methods, we can predict facial pigmentation reactions, based on the reaction on surrogate body sites such as the forearm, without irradiating the face. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16QUVBc4FHQ4XhXI_5UyzDQgvWkXvZTSv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37253 [article]

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