Future of synthetic polymers in cosmetics / Laurence Pottié in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019) . - p. 8-12 Titre : Future of synthetic polymers in cosmetics : How polyurethane polymers can solve the efficacy and environmental impact silemma Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Laurence Pottié, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 8-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Industrie cosmétique -- Aspect de l'environnement Innovations Matériaux filmogènes Microplastiques Polymères -- Biodégradation Polymères -- Emploi en cosmétologie Polyuréthanes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ingredients of cosmetic products end their life to a large extent in wastewater streams or in some cases in surface water. As a result their potential environmental impact and persistency recently raised attention. In particular, the European chemical agency (ECHA) published early 2019 a proposal to restrict the use of intentionally added microplastics in cosmetics and other products. The proposal is still in the consultation phase at the moment this article is written and should enter into force in 2020. Although the restriction only applies to solid particles, the discussions have nowadays extended to all types of synthetic polymers, often wrongly categorized as microplastics or as persistent in the environment. However, liquid film forming polymers do not fulfill the microplastic definition, and some liquid polymers such as polyurethanes can be biodegradable. These examples show the necessity to carefully distinguish between synthetic polymer types while formulating. In this paper an overview of the regulatory and environmental profile of various cosmetic polymers is given, with focus on film forming polymers. Note de contenu : - The ECHA definition of microplastics - End of life of microplastics and liquid polymers - Biodegradability of polymers - Innovation perspectives - Fig. 1 : The microplastics restriction proposal is one of the European initiatives to promote innovation towards non persistent ingredients - Fig. 2 : Film forming polymers, independently of their chemistry of biodegradability potential, are outside the scope of the microplastics restriction proposal - Fig. 3 : Microplastics, liquid and soluble polymers used in cosmetics usually end their life in the domestic waste water - Fig. 4 : The segmented structure of a polyurethane polymer enables introducing biobased building blocks and optimizing its biodegradability while tuning the properties for various applications - Fig. 5 : High humidity Curl Retention (HHCR) curves of representative film formers typically used in hair styling products. Biodegradation values were determined using the OECD 301 standard En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s7a3OP45gGuJHSQrEVbu6rRUkWvTPUWp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33576 [article]

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