Clinical impacts of sun exposures on the faces and hands of Japanese women at different ages / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 425-436 Titre : Clinical impacts of sun exposures on the faces and hands of Japanese women at different ages Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; D. Velleman, Auteur ; S. Yamamoto, Auteur ; A. Nicolas, Auteur ; K. Udodaira, Auteur ; C. Morimoto, Auteur ; S. Belkebla, Auteur ; C. Nègre, Auteur ; C. Delaunay, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 425-436 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Japonaises Mains Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Rayonnement solaire Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To assess the impacts of sun exposures on some skin signs on the faces and hands of differently aged Japanese women, according to their distinct behaviours towards vis à vis sun exposure. - Methods : Two comparable cohorts of Japanese women (aged 18–83 years) were created according to their usual behaviour towards sun exposure i.e. non-sun-phobic (N = 495) and sun-phobic (N = 516) and through their regular use(s) of a photo-protective product. Standard photographs (full-face and 45° lateral) allowed to focus on 18 facial signs that were graded by 15 experts, using a referential skin ageing Atlas. From these two cohorts, two sub-cohorts (114 and 122 women) were created with regard to the similar clinical aspects of the dorsal side of their hands (Left vs. Right) that were further graded. Absolute differences in the scores of each sign were used (non-sun-phobic minus sun-phobic), by age-ranges, to better ascertain the impact of sun exposures and photo-protection. - Results : Facial signs related to skin wrinkles/texture and pigmentary spots were found significantly more accentuated among non-sun-phobic women and show an early onset (20–30 years). Facial sagging and crow’s feet wrinkles appear delayed (30–40 years). The severity of vascular disorders was found to be similar in the two cohorts. The absolute differences in the grading’s of almost all signs were unsurprisingly found increased with advancing ages, illustrating the combination of chronological and photo-ageing processes. With regard to hands, differences in skin texture and pigmentary disorders are of a late onset (40–50 years) and were found much increased at older ages. The cutaneous signs of the hands of Japanese women can hardly be taken as reliable markers of their photo-ageing status. - Conclusion : The present work illustrates, for the first time, some specificities of the impact of sun exposures on the facial skin of Japanese women, pinpointing the fact that some facial signs are of an early onset. Results significantly confirm the importance of both sun avoidance coupled with photo-protective measures. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Subjects - Clustering procedure - Pictures acquisitions - Protocol - Evaluation and grading of facial skin ageing signs - Global synthesis of results on major clinical clusters - Clinical signs on the hands - Statistics - RESULTS : Facial sign - Impact of age on the major structural and pigmentary facial signs - Hands clinical signs DOI : 10.1111/ics12555 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n6h1RLnHgnfWY4L3ImYPlcAWe5vudjbP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33200 [article]

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Validation of hair type diversification for recruiting shampoo panelists without losing data relevance / C. Tabary in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 590-595 Titre : Validation of hair type diversification for recruiting shampoo panelists without losing data relevance Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : C. Tabary, Auteur ; F. Pouradier, Auteur ; S. Belkebla, Auteur ; Ségolène Panhard, Auteur ; L. Carvalho, Auteur ; F. Vincenzi, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 590-595 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Cheveux -- analyse Evaluation Protocole d'étude shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A sensory descriptive method is used by the industries to characterize their various products under development. The sensory panelists are recruited through some general criteria suggested in International Standard Sensory Analysis – General guidelines for the selection, training and monitoring of selected assessors and expert sensory assessors but for hair product evaluation, some hair criteria should also be considered, as a major challenge lied in the difficulty to recruit panelists. Such an issue led us to find practical solutions to make this recruitment easier. Among others, one possible solution was to restrict some requirements in the characteristics of hair. This study aimed at checking if a hair type diversification on either sensitization or curliness could influence the sensory perception of shampoos, and, if so, to which extent. This study demonstrates that, for a shampoo trained panel, the evaluation is impacted by the hair curliness but is not impacted by the hair sensitization level. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Fieldwork - Panelist recruitment - Attributes - Training - Products - Evaluation protocol - Performance analysis - Multiple Factor Analysis - Confidence ellipse - Profile comparisons - Sensory mapping - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Performance analysis results - Straight Hair Cell analysis - Routine analysis results - Products mapping - Table 1 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for control cell (n = 17). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 2 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for SNat Cell (n = 31). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 3 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for SHigh Cell (n = 35). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 4 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for CCol Cell (n = 15). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 5 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for CNat Cell (n = 15). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 6 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for straight cell (n = 83). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability is between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12650 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LHWUxof73Ikom-yYD1iHZKVLecSBsmmE/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35425 [article]

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