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Auteur Samiul Amin |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panier Affiner la rechercheChallenges and effective routes for formulating and delivery of epidermal growth factors in skin care / Olivia Eskens in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)
Titre : Challenges and effective routes for formulating and delivery of epidermal growth factors in skin care Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Olivia Eskens, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 123-130 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cosmétiques
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Facteur de croissance (biochimie)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Epidermal growth factors are important morphogenetic proteins that instruct cell behaviour. They have many inferred applications within regenerative medicine and have shown promising results in skincare treatments. Many growth factors are known to have skin anti-ageing benefits along with further potential in resolving scarring, acne and other skin disorders. Incorporation of these biologics into skincare formulations has been greatly hindered by low transdermal delivery efficacy, intricate material interactions and protein instability – especially within common cosmetic emulsions. This review explores the cosmeceutical capability of growth factors in skin care, current understandings of constituent interactions and advantageous delivery approaches for more effective topical delivery. The first section highlights the influences growth factor product formulation has on stability and synergy. Current understandings of growth factor formulating techniques in cosmetic products is limited, and the performance of other protein structures is an adequate point of reference. The second section examines emerging drug delivery systems to overcome the challenges of topical growth factor treatment. It is important to consider the coaction and durability of all components in a formulation simultaneously : active ingredients, product format and delivery vehicle, in order to engineer an optimal cosmeceutical product. Note de contenu : - FORMULATION OF EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTORS IN SKIN CARE : Stability of EGF in formulations - Stability of EGF in manufacturing - Stability of EGF in storage - Bioengineering - Synergistic EGF formulation
- TOPICAL DELIVERY TECHNIQUES FOR EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTORS : Physical enhancers - Scaffolds - Particulate systems - Liposomes - Smart response
- Table 1 : EGF wound-healing patent formulations
- Table 2 : Stability criteria for EGF product development
- Table 3 : Summary of topical delivery systemsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12685 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nR28nQTZ5sTpP84T27UXkx_flesvh9F8/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35752
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Titre : Design of sustainable lip gloss formulation with biosurfactants and silica particles Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Constantina Eleni Drakontis, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 573-580 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants
Brillant à lèvres
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Maquillage
Particules (matières)
Rhamnolipides
SiliceLa silice est la forme naturelle du dioxyde de silicium (SiO2) qui entre dans la composition de nombreux minéraux.
La silice existe à l'état libre sous différentes formes cristallines ou amorphes et à l'état combiné dans les silicates, les groupes SiO2 étant alors liés à d'autres atomes (Al : Aluminium, Fe : Fer, Mg : Magnésium, Ca : Calcium, Na : Sodium, K : Potassium...).
Les silicates sont les constituants principaux du manteau et de l'écorce terrestre. La silice libre est également très abondante dans la nature, sous forme de quartz, de calcédoine et de terre de diatomée. La silice représente 60,6 % de la masse de la croûte terrestre continentale.
SophorolipidesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main objective of this study was to design a sustainable lip gloss from water-in-oil emulsions by understanding the rheology of combining biosurfactants (rhamnolipids and sophorolipids) with silica particles (Aerosil powders). The different parameters consisted of the silica particle diameter size, the concentration of the particles within the formulation, alongside the different types of biosurfactant and oils used. The experimental results could provide information on the formulation design of cosmetic emulsions such as lip products and foundations.
- Methods : One parameter was varied each time, while the rest were kept constant in order to determine their effect on the viscosity profile of the formulations. A traditional mechanical rheometer was used in order to measure the bulk viscosity profiles of the different formulations, over a wide range of shear stress applied.
- Results : The larger silica particle diameter size indicated an increase in the viscosity of the formulations, as yield stress was also generated for the specific diameter of 14 nm. It was also found that as the particle concentration increased, the viscosity increased as well. Rhamnolipids and sophorolipids indicated very similar behaviour, meaning that the biosurfactant acts as an emulsifier and does not impact the system’s rheological behaviour. The replacement of silicone oil with other natural oils was only successful with canola, and castor oil, since jojoba, squalene and mineral oil were not stabilized.
- Conclusion : The lip gloss was designed by water-in-oil emulsions which were stabilized by biosurfactants and the rheology of the oil phase was enhanced by silica particles. The formulation rheology gave a stable emulsion, the shear-thinning effect ensured easy applicability, whereas the viscosity and elasticity provided nice hold on the lips.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Effect of silica particle diameter - Effect of silica particle concentration - Effect of biosurfactant - Effect of oil and pigments - Technique
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Stability - Effect of silica particle diameter - Effect of silica particle concentration - Effect of biosurfactant - Effect of oil - Performance of the lip gloss
- Table 1 : Rhamnolipid formulations prepared for all three silica particles (Aerosil R 202, Aerosil R 812 and Aerosil R 812S)
- Table 2 : Table 2 Sophorolipid formulations prepared for all three silica particles (Aerosil R 202, Aerosil R 812 and Aerosil R 812S)DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12642 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vXu5cbVn34tRhjWqWOmJAcQb_kn8gPKB/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35423
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 573-580[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Designing high-performance colour cosmetics through optimization of powder flow characteristics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : X. Liu, Auteur ; C. Drakontis, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 208-216 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Compressibilité
Essais dynamiques
Fluides, Mécanique des
Poudres -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Rhéologie
RhéométrieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - METHODS : FT4 Powder Rheometer from Freeman Technology was utilized to explore various powder compositions. The three major tests performed were flowability test, compressibility test and shear cell test.
- RESULTS : The results highlight that the sample which has higher compressibility has the better cake strength, and the sample which requires lower total energy has better pay‐off. Particles or samples with lower total flow energy, should have easier flow, therefore, should have better pay-off. Samples and components with higher compressibility, should hold the structure better, therefore, should have better cake strength. Talc has the highest compressibility and lowest flow energy. Foundation sample 5 has the highest concentration of talc and also has the best performance.
- CONCLUSIONS : The lower the total flow energy, the easier it is for the powder to flow, and have better pay-off. Powder compressibility correlates with cake strength which means that a sample with better compressibility consequently has the better cake strength. Samples 5 and 10 require less total flow energy, have lower shear stress, and higher compressibility, therefore, have better final performance. Both samples 5 and 10 have higher talc concentrations compared to other formulations.DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12608 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hS3vzVU_ALDH5I5YVFRslS_i8g8NjuS_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34511
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Titre : Flow and performance effects of talc alternatives on powder cosmetic formulations Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Omolade M. Ajayi, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 588-600 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amidons
Couleur
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Maïs et constituants
Poudres -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Rhéologie
Silice pyrogénéeLa silice pyrogénée (numéro CAS 112945-52-5, fumed silica en anglais) est une forme de dioxyde de silicium, ou silice, de formule chimique SiO2. Elle se présente comme une poudre constituée de gouttelettes de silice fondue refroidies en formant des chaînes tridimensionnelles qui s'organisent en particules de matière amorphe de très faible masse volumique apparente et de surface spécifique très élevée. Cette structure particulière entraîne un comportement thixotrope accroissant la viscosité des substances dans lesquelles elle est utilisée comme épaississant ou comme charge dans les matières plastiques.
Applications : La silice pyrogénée est un épaississant et un anti-agglomérant largement utilisé dans les poudres. Comme le gel de silice, elle peut être utilisée comme absorbeur d'humidité. On la retrouve dans les cosmétiques du fait de ses propriétés de diffusion de la lumière. Elle est utilisée comme abrasif doux dans le dentifrice, comme charge dans les élastomères en silicone et pour l'ajustement de la viscosité de peintures, revêtements, encres, adhésifs et résines de polyesters insaturés. (Wikipedia)
Talc
Talc -- Produits de remplacementIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To explore the performance effects of fumed silica and cornstarch as alternatives to talc in cosmetic powder formulations.
- Methods : FT4 Powder Rheometer from Freeman Technology was used to test the flowability and compressibility of compact powder formulation samples containing talc, fumed silica and cornstarch at varying concentrations. The colour of the samples is evaluated by physical observation.
- Results : The results show that the concentration of these additives influences the performance of cosmetic powder formulations. Improved compressibility is assessed as an increase in the compressibility percentage, while improved flowability is assessed by reduction in the flow energy of each sample. Talc shows improved compressibility at a minimum of 10% but would require more than 20% to impart improved flow performance. Fumed Silica shows improved compressibility from as low as 5% and this performance increases as the concentration is increased up to 20%. For the flow effects, fumed silica shows a reduction in the flow energy from as little as 5% and this effect is more drastic as the concentration is increased up to 20%. Cornstarch, however, shows a reverse effect for both compressibility and flowability with increasing flow energy and decreasing compressibility with increasing cornstarch concentration. It shows improved compressibility up to a maximum of 10% and improved flow only at concentrations lower than 5%. For a mixture of cornstarch and fumed silica at a total of 5%, both compressibility and flowability are increased as the concentration of cornstarch is reduced and that of fumed silica increased.
- Conclusion : Fumed silica and cornstarch are suitable as alternatives to talc in cosmetic powder formulations. Of the two, Fumed silica showed better compressibility and flow effects. However, a mix of both powders had suitable effects on the compressibility, flow and colour of the formulation.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Formulations tested - Performance evaluation technique - Physical evaluation technique
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Compressibility test - Flowability test - Physical evaluation of samples
- Table 1 : Composition of formulation 1 (control sample) with total powder fixed at 35 g
- Table 2 : Percentage composition of additives in samples 2–16 and (b): Weight composition of additives in samples 2–16
- Table 3 : Physical properties of powder components
- Table 4 : BFE and FRI of pure powders
- Table 5 : Stability index of samples 1–16DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12733 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AhYsT4bJ2w6WAU0Wg4hidFneiRmheyFu/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36862
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Titre : High-performance sulphate-free cleansers : Surface activity, foaming and rheology Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Kelly Yorke, Auteur ; Andrei Potanin, Auteur ; Suzanne Jogun, Auteur ; Andre Morgan, Auteur ; Hongwei Shen, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 636-652 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alkyl oléfine sulfonate
Alkyl polyglycosides
Moussage (chimie)
Produits nettoyants
Rhéologie
Rhéomètres
Sulfates -- Suppression ou remplacement
Surfactants
Tension superficielle
ViscoélasticitéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main objective of this paper is to analyse the composition of a sulphate-free binary or ternary surfactant system with alkyl olefin sulfonate (AOS), alkyl polyglucoside (APG) and lauryl hydroxysultaine (Sultaine). The composition was optimized by observing critical parameters such as surface activity and rheological properties while varying the concentration of APG in a ternary system, varying the ratio of AOS and Sultaine in a binary system and studying the effect of sodium chloride addition. The experimental results can provide an alternative, sulphate-free surfactant system to replace the common system containing sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CapB), without compromising on the parameters previously mentioned.
- Methods : A DuNouy Ring was utilized on a tensiometer to measure the surface tension of the samples. To observe foaming abilities of samples, a visual foaming study was conducted and recorded by taking pictures. A TA instruments mechanical rheometer was used to measure the viscosity.
- Results : Studying the effect of APG concentration on surface tension illustrated that as APG concentration decreases, surface tension decreases as well. The minimum surface tension was found to be 26.587 for 7.5 wt.% AOS and 7.5 wt.% Sultaine. When the ratio between AOS and Sultaine changed, the 1:1 system produced the lowest surface tension value again. As the concentration of AOS decreased in the ratio, the surface tension increased. When the ratio was held constant, and APG was introduced into the system, the systems containing APG had higher surface tension values compared with the systems with the same ratios but did not have APG added. As the concentration of salt increased, the surface tension decreased for AOS, increased for the binary mixture and had no effect on Sultaine. Foaming has a direct correlation with surface tension so a decrease in surface tension led to better foaming abilities; therefore, the 1:1 ratio of AOS:Sultaine had the best foaming qualities. The AOS/Sultaine system exhibited Maxwellian behaviour, suggesting the presence of worm-like micellar structures. As the concentration of APG increased, the viscosity decreased and at a concentration of 2.5 wt.% AOS, 5 wt.% APG and 7.5 wt.% Sultaine, the system changed from shear thinning non-Newtonian fluid to Newtonian. Varying the ratio of AOS:Sultaine in the binary system, showed as the ratio changed, the viscosity decreased, and at a ratio of 1:3 AOS:Sultaine, the system was primarily Newtonian. As the ratio remained constant and APG was added, the viscosity continued to decrease and the 1:3 ratio was completely Newtonian. The addition of salt had no effect on the viscosity of Sultaine, but the viscosity of AOS increased at a salt concentration of 2 wt.%. The binary mixture saw as the concentration of salt increased, the viscosity profile decreased, even though the system remained non-Newtonian and shear thinning.
- Conclusion : The surface activity and rheological study of the sulfate-free surfactant systems unveil a strong synergistic interaction between AOS and Sultaine specifically at a ratio of 1:1 resulting in high surface activity and corresponding good foaming and formation of entangled wormlike micelles resulting in excellent viscosity build in the system. If introducing a biobased surfactant into this system is desired without completely compromising the performance properties, the ternary surfactant system 4.5 wt.% AOS, 3 wt.% APG and 7.5 wt.% Sultaine should be considered optimal. Any further addition of APG or changing the ratio results in detrimental reductions of all performance controlling physio-chemical parameters.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Sample preparation - Surface tension - Foaming - Mechanical rheology
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Surface activity : Surface tension at air–water interface and impact on foaming - Rheological properties
- Table 1 : Composition of Samples, Varying the Amount of APG present
- Table 2 : Compositions of samples, varying the ratio of AOS:Sultaine
- Table 3 : Compositions of samples, varying the amount of salt presentDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12740 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cPvP9X2TckezNRY1s0pXlWixQ-eDmdd7/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37046
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