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Selective penetration enhancing system for acid dyes : more into hair and less into skin / Ei-ichi Nishizawa in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001) . - p. 3-8 Titre : Selective penetration enhancing system for acid dyes : more into hair and less into skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ei-ichi Nishizawa, Auteur ; Hiroto Tanamachi, Auteur ; Takashi Mizooku, Auteur ; Susumu Oishi, Auteur ; Hiromi Shimogaki, Auteur ; Yoshinori Masukawa, Auteur ; Kunihiro Kokubo, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 3-8 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse thermique Carbonate de propylène Cheveux -- Teinture Colorants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A noble technology concerning a selective penetration of acid dyes has been developed in this study. By this technology, acid dye penetration into hair can be enhanced without enhancing into skin. It was found that acid dyes could penetrate into hair through only protein region (endocuticle) but could not penetrate into skin unless they diffuse into lipid region (intercellular lipids). A common penetration enhancer, benzyl alcohol (BA), acts on both proteins and lipids. That is the reason why skin is stained by acid dye solution with BA as a penetration enhancer. From the facts, it was predicted that the substance, which never acted on lipids but strongly acted on proteins, was suitable for the selective penetration enhancing system. We have found out that propylene carbonate (PC) satisfies the request and succeeded to develop the new selective penetration enhancing system with PC. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10745 [article]

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Identification of skin sensitivity through corneocytes measurements / Naoko Ota in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001) . - p. 9-14 Titre : Identification of skin sensitivity through corneocytes measurements Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Naoko Ota, Auteur ; Tomoko Horiguchi, Auteur ; Norio Fujiwara, Auteur ; Nobuo Kashibuchi, Auteur ; Yoshikazu Hirai, Auteur ; Fukuyoshi Mori, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 9-14 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cornéocytes Sensibilité cutanée -- Mesure Tests cutanés Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Surveys conducted in many nations suggest that up to 50% of cosmetic users believe they have sensitive skin and products specifically designed for this skin type have become an important cosmetic category. In developing such products, objective assessment of the degree and the type of sensitivity is desirable. Unfortunately, currently available methods, including measurements of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and lactic acid stinging test do not correlate well with self-assessed sensitivity and cannot be used to identify persons who are more prone to develop adverse skin reactions than other users. A simple, more reliable non- invasive method for detecting skin sensivity is needed. In developing such a method, it is necessary to understand the exact meaning of "sensitivity" as used by consumers to describe their skin condition. Our extensive survey of 130 subjects, conducted over a one year period and taking into consideration seasonal variations, revealed that the meanig varies somewhat among individuals, but that there is a consensus on specific skin conditions to which they refer when they reort having sensitive skin. These conditions include tendencies for their skin to itch, develop redness and become dry and flaky. Our investigations revealed that the development ok skin sensitivity is often related to reduction in the barrier function of stratum corneum and thus a method could be developed by using certain biophysical properties af corneocytes to predict skin sensitivity. Our search for such an objectively measurable sensitivity index led us to average projected area of corneocytes obtained via tape stripping at a specific area of facial skin can be used for this purpose. Our new method, called APAc method, is more reliable and convenient in predicting self-assessed skin sensitivity than are TEWL or lactic acid stinging test. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10759 [article]

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Influence of VIS/NIR radiation on the characteristics of sunscreens and human skin / M. Brandt in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001) . - p. 15-19 Titre : Influence of VIS/NIR radiation on the characteristics of sunscreens and human skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Brandt, Auteur ; M. Rohr, Auteur ; Annika Schrader, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 15-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Effet du rayonnement infrarouge Peau -- Effet du rayonnement ultraviolet Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire Produits antisolaires Tags : 'Colipa  method'  'Sun  protection  factor  (SPF)  measurement'  'VIS/NIR  radiation'  MEDu  Reflectance  Transmission  'Spectral  stability' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Natural sunlight has a high intensity in the visible and infrared spectral range previously ignored in methods used for determination of the sun protection factor. In these method the spectral range is defined only as the UVB/UVA range. The purpose of the studies presented below is to determine the influence of VIS/NIR radiation on the minimal erythemal dose of untreated skin and the sun protection factor as well as the spectral stability of sunscreen formulations. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10760 [article]

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Hair shine : correlation instrumental and visual methods for measuring the effects of silicones / Isabelle Van Reeth in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001) . - p. 21-26 Titre : Hair shine : correlation instrumental and visual methods for measuring the effects of silicones Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Isabelle Van Reeth, Auteur ; Virginie Caprasse, Auteur ; Stephanie Postiaux, Auteur ; Michael Starch, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 21-26 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Réflectance Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The attribute of hair shine is a very important, albeit elusive, quality whhich must be considered when evaluating the effects of a particular hair treatment. It is important for the cosmetic chemist to understand the effects of various hair treatments on shine because shine is strongly associated in the mind of the consumer with clean, healthy hair. Consequently, the measurement of hair shine is a critical part of performance evaluation for any raw material intended for use in hair care products. Silicone polymers are a class of raw materials that are effective for improving hair shine. Dimethicone and phenyl trimethicone, in particular, are often used for this purpose, but other types of silicones can also be effective. The selection of the best silicone for improving hair shine depends on the type of formula from which the silicone is to be delivered, so it is important to compare the effects of different silicones in the same formula. In technical terms, hair shine is more accurately described as hair luster since it is associated with the appearance of stronglycontrasting, adjacent areas of light and dark (highlights). The light and dark areas arise from a phenomenon called specular reflectance, where the intensity of reflected light is highly dependent upon the angle between the observer and the light source. Specular reflectance is associated with smooth surfaces and this explains why it is associated with clean, healthy hair since both hair damage (surface roughness) and soiling reduce smoothness and therefore specular reflection. Several researchers have approached the problem of assessing hair shine by the use of a goniophotometer to measure reflected light intensity at various angles to a single hair fiber. This technique was used to study the relationship between luster and hair morphology, and the effects of various shampoo treatments. Other researchers have attempted to quantify hair luster using image analysis and data collected from hair tresses. Attempts to quantify hair shine in our laboratories have focused on the use of volunteers to evaluate hair tresses with the use of a "shine box". The shine box provides a means of controlling the illumination and observation conditions and is similar to a technique described by Reich and Robbins. Our shine box method was described in a 1995 publication. The shine box method has been used in our recent efforts to correlate data from human panels with objective measurements. Using a simple hand held meter to obtain gloss measuremsnts, we were able to show rough correlation between 60° gloss values and ranking scores from human panels using the shine box method. Our work with the gloss meter showed that it was suitable for screening purposes, but it was relatively insensitive compared to the distinctions that are possible with the uman eye. Given this situation, we wished to continue the search for other objective methods. We also wished to expand our efforts to begin more close cooperation between our laboratories in Europe and the U.S. Both laboratories were using human panelists to evaluated hair shine using the shine box, but with different test designs. In the US, a ranking method was used, while a paired comparison method was used in Europe. The acquisition of an image analysis system and the establishment of half head (salon) testing capabilities provided further impetus to begin a joint project between our laboratories. Our goals were to develop better objective methods and to study the effects of various silicones on hair shine. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10761 [article]

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Genetic engineering : a tool for obtaining human proteins useful as cosmetic ingredients / R. Armengol in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001) . - p. 28- 33 Titre : Genetic engineering : a tool for obtaining human proteins useful as cosmetic ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : R. Armengol, Auteur ; Aurora Benaiges, Auteur ; Lourdes Mayordomo, Auteur ; M. Moliner, Auteur ; S. Atrian, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 28- 33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Génie génétique Ingrédients cosmétiques Protéines Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Construction of a plasmid comprising a sequence encoding human metallothionein-IIA fused to a glutathione-S-transferase peptide to obtain a fusion product "MT-IIA-GST" - Recombinant expression and purification of the fusion product "MT-IIA-GST" - Analysis of GST-MT-IIA - Heavy metals binding functionality - In-vitro transdermal penetration - Antioxidant activity measurement. - RESULTS : Analysis of GST-MT-IIA - Heavy metals binding functionality - In vitro transdermal penetration - Antioxidant activity. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10762 [article]

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Microencapsulation of β-carotene by supercritical CO2 technology / P. F. H. Harmsen in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001) . - p. 34-36 Titre : Microencapsulation of β-carotene by supercritical CO2 technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : P. F. H. Harmsen, Auteur ; M. H. Vingerhoeds, Auteur ; L. B. J. M. Berendsen, Auteur ; R. M. Harrison, Auteur ; J. M. Vereijken, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 34-36 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Carotène Dioxyde de carbone Encapsulation Fluides supercritiques Microsphères Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A protein isolate derived from pea seeds was applied as matrix material for the microencapsulation of béta- carotene, intended for cosmetic application. Experiments were performed to evaluate the possibility of encapsulating béta-carotene in pea protein microsphere by supercritical CO2 (scCO2) technology. The microspheres were prepared by a water-in-oil emulsion technique, where stabilization of the microspheres occured by heat treatment. Parameters like temperature of the emulsion and pH of the protein dispersion appeared to have a marked effect on the formation of microspheres and on the porosity of the matrices. Porous microspheres were successfully applied as carrier materials for β-carotène in scCO2 experiments. With this method no organic solvents were used, and in some cases a free flowing product was obtained. Most important, encapsulation was achieved under mild conditions, thereby preventing the sensitive β-carotene from degradation. This study showed that scC02 technology appeared to be a promising encapsulation technique for β-carotene in pea protein microspheres. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10763 [article]

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